Dzibanché Part 3 of 4: Plaza Xibalba and the Pyramid of the Owl

Pirámide del Buho, occupies the east side of Plaza Xibalba. Its rounded corners show evidence of the Petén style of architecture popular in the Early Classic period (200-600 AD). While excavating a royal tomb inside the pyramid, archeologists found numerous grave goods, including a ceramic bowl with an image that gave the pyramid its name.

In Part 3 of my Dzibanché series, we will take a look at this pyramid and two of Plaza Xibalba's other structures.  Of the 22 plazas that archeologists have so far identified, Plaza Xibalba appears to have been the most important. It was the most important ceremonial area of the Kaan (Snake) Dynasty, which originated at Dzibanché around 200 AD and eventually extended its domination over most of the Late Classic Era (600-1000 AD) Maya world.

Overview: Plaza Xibalba

Site map of Plaza Xibalba. The plaza stands just to the east of Plaza Gann, the area we examined in Parts 1 and 2 of this series. The Plaza Xibalba's platform is about 4m (12ft) above Plaza Gann and is accessed via stairways on the north and south sides of Pirámide de los Cormoranes (Edificio 2). In fact, the rear of Edificio 2 forms the west side of Plaza Xibalba. Directly across from it is Pirámide del Buho (Pyramid of the Owl), also known as Edificio 1. It is the largest structure at Dzibanché. Occupying the the north and south sides of Plaza Xibalba are two nearly identical structures called Palacio Norte and  Palacio Sur. Archeologists named the plaza after the Maya underworld because of its many associations with death and the afterlife.

Xibalba mask from Chetumal Museum of Maya Culture. Xibalba (Shee-bal-ba) means "Place of Fear" in the K'iche' Maya language. Access to the underworld was through caves or cenotes (limestone sinkholes filled with water). Xibalba was ruled by twelve gods collectively known as the Lords of the Underworld. They had horrendous names like "Flying Scab", "Bone Staff", "Pus Demon" and "Bloody Claws". Chief among these Lords were the two gods: "One Death" and "Seven Death".

Xibalba had nine levels through which the newly dead had to pass. Each level contained traps and tests, including hazards such as crossing raging rivers of blood and passing through rooms filled with fire, ravenous jaguars, and razor-sharp obsidian blades. Maya tombs often contain items which were thought to aid the dead in accomplishing this fearsome journey. These include weapons, tools, food, and precious items such as jade. The requirement to pass through Xilbalba had nothing to do with personal conduct, or one's good or bad acts while living. The only way to avoid the journey was to die a violent death.


Edificio 1 - Pirámide del Buho 

Like many of Dzibanché's structures, the Pyramid of the Owl was constructed in multiple stages. The earliest phase was a much smaller pyramidal platform built sometime between 200-300 AD. The remains of this initial pyramid were later used as the core of the one seen above. The later structure was built in several phases between 300-600 AD. The Pyramid of the Owl has four stepped levels with a broad staircase facing to the west. The second, third, and fourth levels have large panels on either side of the stairs. The surfaces of these panels were once stuccoed and painted. During the Late Classic, large stone masks were mounted on the panels, an indication of the influence of the Rio Bec architectural style.

Staircase of the Pyramid of the Owl, viewed from the top of Palacio Sud. The staircase is impressively steep, with four landings. The man descending is stepping very carefully on his way down the narrow stairs. A slip could be dangerous, possibly even fatal. As a result, access to the upper levels of many of Mexico's ancient pyramids and monuments has been prohibited in recent years. I understand the reasoning, but it often closes off some wonderful photographic opportunities. Fortunately for me, climbing was permitted on this particular pyramid.

Schematic of the Pyramid of the Owl, viewed from above. Although the Pyramid of the Cormorants may be a bit taller, the Pyramid of the Owl is, overall, the larger of the two structures. In design, the Owl Pyramid shows some similarity to the much smaller Pyramid of the Lintels, seen in Part 1. The temple at the top contains a relatively small, narrow room which was once covered by a vaulted, corbel ceiling.

Entrance to the temple is restricted by a barrier. However, the room inside is easily photographed from behind the barrier. The terrace in front of the temple gives a good view of the Plaza Xibalba, the rear of Pirámide de los Cormoranes and other areas of Dzibanché.

South end of the narrow, vaulted temple room shows evidence of smoke. A small seat or altar occupies the southeast corner of the room. There is a similar structure at the north end of the room. I am inclined to believe that these are altars because of the evidence of blackened areas on the walls at both ends of the temple. This probably indicates smoke from ritual fires.

A third seat, or altar, stands against the back (east) wall inside the temple. This one has an interesting slot near its middle. I have found no information as to the purpose of the slot, but it might once have contained a statue or other ritual object. This structure faces the entrance of the temple, strongly suggesting an altar. In 1994, archeologists examined the floor in front of this altar and found the beginning of a stairway. When they were cleared, the stairs led down into the interior of the pyramid, all the way to the level of Plaza Xibalba. There, the excavators found a recessed tomb containing the remains of a woman, obviously of great status, possibly even a queen. Her grave goods are some of the finest found at Dzibanché.

The owl on the lid of this funerary bowl gave Pirámide del Buho its name. One of the finds was a lidded pot decorated with the image of an owl (buho) with its wings spread. Archeologists were so impressed that they named the pyramid after it. To the Maya, owls were the harbingers of death and closely associated with Xibalba. It is not, therefore, surprising to find an owl depicted on a funerary pot. Owls were also powerful symbols at Teotihuacán, the great empire which so strongly influenced the Classic Maya. Palacio Atelco, the military academy of Teotihuacán, is decorated with birds with extended wings that may be owls (although they might also be eagles). Further, the Teotihuacán military leader who took power in Tikal in 378 AD--either through conquest or a coup d'etat--was named Spear-thrower Owl. (Photo from Latin American Studies website)

This engraved Spondylus shell was also found in the tomb. The shell is set with jade and shows a ruler sitting cross-legged on a throne. The relief carving is inlaid with jade and black coral. The figure on the throne wears a nosepiece and ear spools of jade, as well as jade ornaments on other parts of his body. On his head, he wears the emblem of the "jester god", which signifies royalty. In his arms, he holds a rattlesnake. Another snake is also depicted and a deity emerges from its jaws. All this may refer to a previous ruler or possibly a mythical culture hero. The style corresponds to the period from 450-550 AD. (Photo from Arqueologia Mexicana website)

The Diving God decorates a censer found at Dzibanché. A censer is a ritual device used during religious ceremonies to burn incense, usually copal. Among the pantheon of Maya gods, the Diving God (Ah-Muzen-Cab) was especially important. Archeologists nicknamed him the Diving or Descending God because he is always depicted in an upside down posture, as if he were diving out of the sky.

Although he is portrayed here in human form, he sometimes appears as a bee because he is the god of beekeepers, bees, and honey. Maya beekeeping began thousands of years ago, but became particularly prevalent during the Post Classic Era (1000-1520 AD). The Maya used a species of stingless bee that they called Xunan Kab, but its scientific name is Melipona beecheii. They used honey to make balché, an alcoholic drink consumed in religious festivals. In addition to local consumption, honey was also an important trade item. (Photo from Wikimedia Commons)

The rear of the Pirámide de los Cormoranes forms the west side of Plaza Xibalba. This shot was taken from atop Pirámide del Buho, looking west. The irregular stonework at the top of the Pyramid of the Cormorants is what remains of the large roof comb that once rose above its temple. Below the roof comb, in the lighter colored stone, you can see two large, rectangular surfaces. They are part of a series that cover the back and sides of the pyramid. They show the architectural influence of Teotihuacán.


Palacios Sud y Norte

Large rectangular pillars line the front of Palacio Sur on the south side of Plaza Xibalba. Just in front of the pillars is a long, narrow terrace from which the ceremonies in the plaza below could be viewed by elite spectators. The pillars are separated by nine entrances along the front of the building. There used to be a broad staircase rising up from the plaza to the level of this terrace. However, after the Spanish Conquest, the staircase was dismantled and the stones reused for Spanish buildings elsewhere. Only a grassy embankment remains.

Schematic view of Palacio Sur from above. The structure is in the form of a low, stretched-out pyramid. There are three lines of pillars and roof supports that create two long, narrow galleries. Ten pillars are on the front, with another ten on the rear, while the middle row contains six. There are nine doorways on the front and another nine on the rear. Numbers were always significant to the Maya, and nine is the number of levels in Xibalba. The only doorway through which you can pass directly through to the back of the building is the central door. All the other doorways are offset. Facing Palacio Sur on the north side of Plaza Xibalba is Palacio Norte, a virtually identical structure. Because of this close similarity, I will only show Palacio Sur in this posting.

Front corridor of Palacio Sur. When I first climbed to the top of Palacio Sur, I was puzzled by the structure of the building. It did not seem to be a sensible arrangement for a living space with the name "palace". The extremely long, narrow corridors would have created a difficult passage for two people approaching each other. Further, unlike Palacio Pop in Plaza Gann, there are no sleeping compartments, storage areas, or large rooms for social gatherings.

The answer, apparently, is that Palacios Sur and Norte are not really elite residential spaces at all. Instead, they form, along with Pirámide del Buho,  an elaborate funerary monument to the Kaan Dynasty female who is buried in the pyramid. Plaza Xibalba is therefore entirely ceremonial in function, and the elite residential and administrative structures are located elsewhere.

Bowl found in a Dzibanché tomb. This is yet another example of fine craftsmanship. While this bowl was used for funerary purposes, it could just as well have been used to serve dinner to an elite family. (Photo from Latin American Studies website)

How the nobles who lived a Dzibanché may have appeared. I took this photo at the Museum of Maya Culture in Chetumal. The mural is a reproduction of a mural found in a room at a different Maya city. There are no similar murals at Dzibanché to show us the appearance and adornment of the Kaan Dynasty elite, but they probably looked very much like this.

The male figures wear extravagant head dresses and rich jewelry of jade and other rare stones. Their shoulders are draped with long, white, cotton cloaks with embroidered hems. The only other forms of clothing they wear are embroidered loin cloths with long extensions draping down the front. In Yucatan's typically warm climate, other clothing would be superfluous.

This completes Part 3 of my Dzibanché series. I hope you have enjoyed it. If you would like to leave any thoughts or questions, please do so in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim