A walk along Chapala's Street of the Dead

Faces out of a nightmare? Not at all! Mexico's Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is a time of fun, warmth, fond memories, and family bonding. Visitors from the US or Canada are often disturbed, or at least baffled, by this celebration of death held each year on November 1 & 2. The first night commemorates los Angelitos (the little angels), children who died very young and so immediately joined the angels in heaven. The second night is for older children and adults. Because it comes so close to Halloween, a US celebration which is gradually catching on in Mexico, the two occasions are sometimes confused by outsiders. They are very different. North-of-the-border folks tend to be skittish about death and dying and refer to it in euphemisms if they can't avoid talking about it altogether. The Day of the Dead is an expression of how comfortable Mexicans are with death. From the Mexican point of view, death is simply a passage to another state of being where the dead continue as part of one's family life, even visiting the living periodically. The Day of the Dead is a time when such visits are especially encouraged and facilitated. The dead are welcomed back as treasured visitors who have returned from long and distant journeys.

Altar for Felix Guzman Aguayo (Sept. 15, 1941-April 5, 2010). To encourage dead relatives to return, Mexican families create altars at their homes. I found this one along Calle Cinco de Mayo, a street in the small city of Chapala a few miles east of my home in Ajijic. For a map, click here. The people who live along several blocks of this street have a tradition of placing their altars in front of their homes. Over time, a friendly competition has developed and both sides of the street are now lined for blocks with altars, some simple and some outrageously colorful, complex, and even hilariously funny. This display draws visitors from all over the Lake Chapala area and as far away as Guadalajara. I was attracted to Sr. Guzman's altar because of its simple elegance. Family members can often be found nearby, so I asked one young woman if Sr. Guzman was her relative. "Mi tio," (my uncle) she answered shyly. She seemed pleased that a visiting gringo had chosen her display for a photograph.

Those commemorated by an altar don't need to be related, just dead. The white-haired gentleman above is Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the man who launched the War for Independence from Spain in 1810. Since this year is the Bicentennial of that important event in Mexican history, the family who built this altar decided to dedicate it to Father Hidalgo. Although the initial revolt that he led came to a bad end, as did he, Hidalgo is revered as the hero who emancipated Mexico's indigenous people.

Altar for a villain. Not far from Hidalgo's altar, I was astonished to find one for General Porfirio Diaz. He was the dictator of Mexico from 1876 to 1910, when he was overthrown at the start of the Mexican Revolution. 2010 is also the Centennial of the beginning of the Revolution. Diaz did much to develop and industrialize Mexico, but at huge cost to everyone in Mexico except for the rich elite at the top. He is famous for his remark "Poor Mexico, so far from God, so close to the United States." Unlike the great majority of Revolutionary leaders who followed him over the next 20 years, Diaz died peacefully after living out his days in luxury in France.

A great artist is celebrated. One family assembled an altar for Diego Rivera, Mexico's greatest muralist. Rivera became world famous for his huge murals depicting the history and culture of Mexico. His mural in the Rockefeller Center in New York was demolished after Nelson Rockefeller discovered that Rivera, a dedicated Communist, had painted a portrait of Vladimir Lenin in the middle of it. Rivera had a sense of humor, but Rockefeller apparently did not.

In memory of Mexico's Charlie Chaplin. This altar display includes the Hollywood star won by Cantinflas whose real name was Fortino Mario Alfonso Moreno Reyes (August 12, 1911-April 20, 1993). He was a brilliant comedic actor who always portrayed the little guy who managed to outfox the rich and powerful. He followed an old principle: "if you can't dazzle them with brilliance, then baffle them with B.S." Charlie Chaplin himself once called Cantinflas "the best comedian in the world."

The central element of a Day of the Dead altar is a photo of the one honored. The photo above is of Freda Kahlo, wife of Diego Rivera and a great artist in her own right. An altar is generally constructed like stepped pyramid, and the photo is usually displayed on the top level.

Votive candles are used throughout the altar displays. The candles represent light, faith, and hope and help guide the spirit of the dead person to the altar. They also help light the scene for the living and are used to highlight various of its aspects and to line the borders.

Family member makes final preparations. The stepped pyramid design and use of candles can clearly be seen here. In addition, there is often a yellow pathway made of marigold blossoms leading up to the altar. The scent of marigolds, called cempasúchil by the indigenous people, both attracts and guides the dead. Where the marigold path meets the altar is a cross with 4 candles representing the 4 cardinal points. The cross itself is laid down with ashes. The dead person is cleansed of his sins by proceeding up the yellow path and standing on the cross. The young man in the photo is lighting an incense burner.

The use of incense for religious and ceremonial purposes is very old in Mexico. The small clay incense burner above smokes with burning copal. The incense clears the area of negative energy and evil spirits and, along with the cempasúchil, assists the dead person in finding the way. One of Hernán Cortés' young officers, Bernal Diaz del Castillo, often wrote of Aztec priests "fumigating" Cortés and his men when they came to visit Aztec cities and temples. The indigenous people used the name pom for the the resinous sap of a tree of the genus Copaifera. It later became known to the Spanish as copal, and is still used in indigenous ceremonies such as sweat lodges. Since incense had long been used by the Catholic Church in its ceremonies, there was a natural connection. The Church often converted aspects of indigenous religions, such as copal burning, to its own purposes. However, the deep pagan origins of the Day of the Dead were initially too much for the Church to stomach, and for a long time the authorities attempted to suppress the fiesta. Finally, they recognized that "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em."

His soul cleansed by incense, the dead person can then clean up the rest of himself. Other typical features of an altar are a bowl or pitcher of water, soap, and a towel. These are included just as you would provide them to a weary, dust-covered traveler who has completed a long journey to your home.

Next, a bit of refreshment. Once cleaned up, the wraith will want a bit of refreshment to restore his spirits (pun intended). The bottle shown above is probably the favorite brand of the departed one.

And now, to dinner! The person for whom this altar was dedicated probably was an aficianado of mojarra, also known as tilapia, probably caught in Lake Chapala. Up until recently, fish in Lake Chapala were contaminated by effluents from upstream factories and farms. Hopefully the diet of the departed did not contribute to his passing. Mojarra are served whole, as shown above. Another typical item on the altar is sliced lime or lemon, seen on the plate.

Pan de muerto (bread of death) is a tasty treat. This sweet bread, covered by granulated sugar, is very popular and is found on nearly every altar. Sometimes the bread will be shaped as a human figure.

Sugar skulls are also ubiquitous on Day of the Dead altars. They are made from sugar paste called alfeñique and come in various sizes, sometimes wearing hats like the one above. The skulls can be ordered from your local baker with a name or message of your choice on the top. Often, a large skull is placed on the top step of the altar pyramid to symbolize the Eternal Father, Giver of Life. When they are grouped in threes on the second level, like you see above, they represent the Holy Trinity. The cloth on which the sugar skulls sit is purple, the color of mourning. You will find purple somewhere in most of my altar photos.

Returning family members like to have familiar things about them. In order to further encourage the departed to return, some of their favorite possessions, or objects that represent activities they enjoyed, are displayed. This part of the displays is very idiosyncratic, which makes it especially fascinating. The person celebrated here had a favorite doll, but also liked to play with a yo-yo, seen between the doll's legs. The doll leans back against a keyboard, indicating that the dead person was a musician.

Proud proprietors of the Graveyard Cantina. Many of the displays included living tableaux. Here, the couple above have created a bar called the Panteon, which means graveyard in Spanish. Under the grinning gaze of a skeleton, they display their wares. It was not a real bar, however, just a tableau for fun. The owner appears to be wearing a devil's horns, as well as a Che Guevara t-shirt.

An apparently satisfied customer at the Cantina Panteon. The young daughter of the couple in the previous photo was also part of the tableau. She sat at a small table with a glass and half empty bottle of Bacardi rum. My guess is that she didn't drink the other half.

A rather sad-looking young catrina. Dressed as one of the famous skeletons of José Guadalupe Posada, this young girl was part of another tableau portraying a whole restaurant full of skeletons, including the waiter. Although her make-up made her look rather sad, she immediately grinned at me when I finished taking the photo. Posada was a 19th Century cartoonist who lampooned the pretensions of the wealthy upper classes by drawing them as skeletons, called catrinas (catrinos for men), dressed up in 19th Century finery including the extravagant hats favored by the women of those days. Fittingly, this catrina's hat is purple. Posada, who profited little from his hugely popular catrinas, died poor and was buried in a common grave. Diego Rivera, among others, named Posada as a major influence on his work.

Brothers share a piece of sugar cane. The older boy holds his younger brother on this lap in the hotel tableau. I often marvel at how Mexican children take care of one another. I'm sure there must be squabbling, but I rarely see it. Much more often, I see older children, even teenagers, carrying the little ones or holding their hands, or playing with them lovingly.

Wanna play a hand? The skeleton in this display appears ready to deal a hand of cards for your soul, or whatever else you might have to offer. As far as I could tell, she has a winning hand, as well as a winning smile.

Free food is also part of the Day of the Dead tradition. A group of friendly teenagers hands out fresh pan de muerto to passersby. There were many options for snacking as we progressed down the street, including fried mojarra, tamales, and tacos. The kids were very polite, charming and sweet.

A wall of the dead. For those who wanted to participate but don't live on Calle Cinco de Mayo, or perhaps didn't have the resources to pay for an altar, there was a bulletin board display at the end of the street. Pictures with brief descriptions were shown on both sides of this board, and there were other boards as well. I remember the picture of one man who had a large family and made his living with a small bicycle-repair shop. Gone, but not forgotten.

An especially poignant reminder. Glancing down, I found this little display on the ground at my feet. What caught my eye was the US currency. The message on the white paper says "In memory of our brothers who died crossing the border while seeking the North American dream. Rest in peace." As I examined the scene more closely, I realized that the skeletons strewn about the sandy ground represented the many who have died of heat or thirst in the scorching desert country shared by Mexico and the Southwestern US. Millions of people have crossed and recrossed the border desperately seeking work from US employers who profit hugely from their low cost labor. As usual, the victim gets blamed, while those who have profited from the desperation continue to do so.

This concludes my posting on the Dia de los Muertos. I hope you have enjoyed it, and perhaps learned a bit about this unique Mexican celebration. If you would like to leave a comment, please so do in the Comments section below, or by sending me an email directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

When your relatives come to visit Lake Chapala...

Indian mime at the Chapala Malecon. There is so much to do and see around the Lake Chapala area that when relatives or friends come to visit, it can be a daunting task to figure out just how to give them the best experience. The Indian mime shown above is typical of the unusual and offbeat experiences one encounters while on a casual ramble about the area. The mime provides a good idea of what early Indians may have actually looked like when the Spanish arrived. Notice the dancing rattles on the dancer's right foot. He was so still, I took him for a manniquin at first. His performance has earned the small pile of peso coins at his feet.

When my mom announced that she was coming down with my sister on their first trip to Ajijic "to see what my youngest child is up to", I had to do some serious thinking about what adventures fit their personalities and capabilities. My guess is that many expats down here face the same questions when they anticipate visitors. People who are considering a visit on their own from up north, and have just a few days, often face similar questions. If you fit any of these categories, you may find some of my relatives' experiences enlightening.

Voyagers from the cold and snowy north. First, an introduction to the protagonists of this little drama, which occurred in February of 2009. My big sister Beth is on the left. She has made a career of teaching inmates in the Maryland and Virginia prison systems, which she still does full-time. I have found that it almost takes a stick of dynamite to blast her out of her normal routines, so I was delighted that she decided to come. Beth is not much into vigorous physical activity, so hiking the wilds was definitely off the table. On the right is Jane, my mom. In addition to being a homemaker for many years, she has always been active in charity work and has run food and social programs for the poor in Virginia. She would turn 93 during her visit and I wanted to shape activities what would not overtire her. Jane is in remarkably good health, but is also a bit frail. Trudging the cobblestone streets of Ajijic could be tiring for her and I certainly didn't want to risk a fall. At the end of her visit, I kidded her that I hadn't held her hand so much since I was 5 years old.

Hotel Casa Blanca served well as a place to stay and as base of operations. I wanted a hotel with interesting options close at hand. I also wanted a place where the management would be especially attentive to the needs of an elderly woman. Hotel Casa Blanca turned out to be an excellent choice. The owner, Josef, speaks perfect English and he and his staff were very solicitious. Josef is actually of Syrian extraction, although he could pass for a Mexican easily. His Middle Eastern background is reflected in the decor of the hotel which has a distinctly Moorish feel. Hotel Casa Blanca is on Calle 16 de Septiembre, near the corner of Calle Ramon Corona, and lies directly across the street from the Lake Chapala Society, the local expat organization. The LCS has gorgeous gardens and very nice facilities overall. You don't need to be a member to enjoy much of what the LCS has to offer. There are also restaurants and small crafts shops within a few steps of the hotel. Ajijic Plaza is only about 3 blocks away, and the lakeshore is right around the corner.

The Casa Blanca has an intimate feel. With its curious and charming passageways, and two small, colorful courtyards, it is a minor adventure just to explore this place. Jane and Beth's room was immaculate and had all the conveniences you might expect. It also had a set of windows (see picture #2) that overlooked the front courtyard and swung out so that they could enjoy the view below. Carole and I avoid driving Mexican roads at night so, for an extra fee, we arranged for the hotel to pick them up at the airport and return them when they left. I was pleased that Josef himself acted as their initial chauffeur. If there is no room at Josef's inn, click here for some other possibilities.

View from the Malecon (waterfront) at Chapala. There have been considerable improvements along the shoreline of Lake Chapala over the last couple of years. One of these improvements was to rebuild the walkway along the City of Chapala's shoreline. The city created beaches, cleared the water hiacynth that choked the shore, and a generally upgraded the whole area. Above, you are looking southeast across the lake. While a mother and her child enjoy the new beach, tourist boats behind them rock gently at anchor. Behind the tourist boats, a large flock of white pelicans socialize on some rock outcrops. In the distance behind the pelicans, you can see Scorpion Island, the destination of most of the tour boats. Behind the island loom the southshore mountains in Michoacan State.

Despite Scorpion Island's name, you shouldn't have any worries about scorpions, and you may enjoy one of the several island restaurants should you decide to visit. The boats are comfortable and safe and all contain life jackets to the best of my knowledge . The boats' cost in pesos translates to about $25.00 USD. The charge is the same whether the boat is full or you are the only passenger, so it behooves you to make this a group outing. Boats can be rented at the base of the Chapala pier.

A Feria for every taste. There always seems to be a feria (fair) or fiesta going on someplace in the area. When Carole and Beth and I visited the Chapala Malecon area, there was feria along the street leading to the pier. Local artists and craftspeople displayed their wares and some worked on their creations as we watched. This weaver works at a loom that an 18th Century weaver would have instantly recognized. These looms, which can be found in textile shops all over the area, are not "antiques" or museum pieces. They are the fully-functioning tools of local textile crafts people. Notice that, except for a few nuts and bolts, there are few pieces of metal in the construction of this device. Most of the moving parts are connected by twine.

Chapala pier from the western section of the Malecon. The tour boats dock along the pier, which extends a considerable distance out into the lake. Once, while I was sitting at the open-air Beer Garden restaurent at this spot, I watched a continuing stream of Huichol Indians debarking from the boats from Scorpion Island. The Huichols are immediately identifiable by their colorfully embroidered clothing. I had never known the Indians to be tourists, so I was puzzled by their boat trip. Later, I learned that Scorpion Island is a sacred place for the Huichols. According to their founding myths, they originated on an island in the middle of a lake and they return periodically to pay tribute to their ancestors. Their original lake, west of Guadalajara, was drained by Spanish and later Mexican farmers to create more land, as usual without any consultation with the Huichols. Government officials encouraged them to relocate the center of their ceremonies to Scorpion Island, which the Huichols ultimately accepted.

Petatan is a fishing village full of warm and friendly people, and pelicans galore. I decided to give Jane and Beth a taste of a Lake Chapala area visited by few Gringos (or Gringas either). Petatan is located on the south shore, a little more than an hour's drive from Ajijic, just inside the neighboring State of Michoacan. Now a long, thin peninsula, Petatan was an island as late as the 1970s. The original island was created by a small volcanic cone just off shore. Now the island is connected by a causeway to the shore. The small homes and stores ring the volcanic cone in concentric circles up to the peak on which sits the small local church. Petatan appears on few maps, and you have to watch closely as you head east on the south lake shore along Highway 15. You will find the marked turnoff to Petatan on the left after you have passed Tizapan heading east, just before the road turns south away from Lake Chapala toward Cojumatlan de Regules.

Doing it the old-fashioned way. One of the things that charms me about Mexico is how the ancient and the modern continue to exist side-by-side. The Petatan farmer above, who may well be a fisherman when not working his field, plows in a fashion known to farmers back to the time when horses were domesticated for agricultural work. Probably the only significant "modern" touch here is the metal blade on the plow, a feature widely introduced in the early 19th Century. Still, this method of plowing suits the needs of a small field; the horse produces manure; the process doesn't significantly pollute the environment; and the horse can be used for other purposes as well as plowing.

On the lookout. Jane is an avid birder, and she brought her binoculars when I described the plethora of avian inhabitants of the Lake Chapala area. The Lake is a significant stop-over for birds migrating from the US and Canada to South America and back. There is also a huge variety of native species. The Audobon Society has a large and very active chapter among the expat community. They meet and go birding almost every Sunday morning.

Chow time at the pelican cafeteria. Petatan is well known to locals, and to birders, as a gathering place for hundreds of large white pelicans that winter here (December-March) and summer in the US and Canada. They assemble just off shore in Petatan to feed on the fish scraps left over from the catch of the local fishermen. Graceful, even majestic, in the air, the large white birds are comical on land. The local people bring out the scraps from the fish-cleaning sheds that line the shore of Petatan and dump them in a pile just off shore. The pelicans then swoop in to land in long evenly-spaced lines reminiscent of big airliners at a busy airport. When they gather around the pile of fish scraps they sqwack and quarrel and flap their huge wings as they jocky for position. Once they have scooped up a chunk of fish, they throw their heads back and swallow it down in one gulp. There is a restaurant right on the water where you can enjoy a lunch and watch all this free entertainment, however it is only open on weekends so we went elsewhere for food. It is not a bad idea to bring your own snacks as a back-up on a trip like this because you never know what might be available.

Fishing, people-style. The locals learn the ropes early and these two young Petatan boys were determined to try their luck. One boy handles the boat and the other the hand-net. The net is circular with weights around the edge for control. The boy will swing the net behind him and then cast it out in a flat circle to land a few yards off the side of the boat. As it settles he will draw in a rope which closes the net and then haul it back over the side of the boat. Sometimes, lacking a boat, young Mexicans will stand waist-deep in the Lake to cast the net. It all looks very picturesque in the golden light of the setting sun, but it takes lots of strength and energy and often produces little. As beautiful as it is, Lake Chapala is sadly a shadow of its former glory as an abundant producer of fish.

Success comes to the fisherman who works at it with patience. One of the boys proudly displays his catch for us. They were well aware we were photographing, and I think they put on a little extra show for us. The open friendliness of this boy was typical of the people we have met over several visits to Petatan. They are proud of their town and its reputation as a pelican haven, and eager to show us the sights. On a previous visit, we encountered a middle-aged woman in an alley-way we were exploring and she beckoned us to come over so she could give each of us a hug of welcome. Others have struck up conversations, plying us with questions about who we were and where we came from and whether we liked their town. No one wanted anything from us, that's just the way they are.

A local shrine drew out attention. While poking along the shoreline, we encountered this shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico and particularly of its Indians . Shown above is only a small detail of a hand-created tableau that was at least 6 feet wide and extended 10 feet up the side of the hill. The inspiration for the shrine was an oval mark in a large rock nearby that remembles the standard portrait of the Virgin. When we asked a neighbor about it, she pointed out a local Indian woman who hustled over to proudly show off her creation. Although I am not at all a religious person, I am often touched by the simple, but deeply felt, religious devotion of many Mexicans, especially the country folk.

Back on the north shore, we turned our attention to some serious shopping. Above, Beth models some of her new finery. She purchased the hand-embroidered blouse at a small cooperative store around the corner from Casa Blanca on Ramon Corona which offers the work of local women artisans. The necklace was our gift from a trip we had taken to Manzanillo, but we found similar ones among in the handicrafts booths along the Malecon in Chapala, along with the white bracelet on her right hand. You can spend a lot of money unnecessarily here, if you don't shop around. Often there will be a huge price difference for virtually identical items depending on whether you buy them in the expensive tourist-oriented boutiques, or the out-of-the-way crafts shops.

One place we jokingly call "Sach's-by-the-Sea". It is located at the east end of Paseo Ramon Corona, the street that parallels the Chapala Malecon where the street runs into Christiana Park. Beautiful clothing, textiles, jewelry, footwear, and other items are astonishingly inexpensive, and the asking price can usually be bargained down a bit if you want to try. It is a covered, but otherwise open-air group of stalls occupied by small family operations. Because of its somewhat obscure location, I have never seen the crowds one finds at the Malecon or elsewhere.

Mom finds a brace of handsome charros at the tianguis. These two, plus a pair of gorgeously-gowned women, were roaming the open-air Wednesday street market called the tianguis. They were drumming up customers for the ballet folklorico scheduled for that weekend. Unfortunately, Jane and Beth had to leave before the event. I am sure they would have been wowed by the knock-your-socks-off dancing and costumes of this popular Mexican event. A little research before your guests (or you yourself) arrive in town may reveal special events like this that will be very memorable for visitors. You may even want to ask the visitors to adjust their trip schedule by a few days, if possible. The Guadalajara Reporter, which is the local weekly English-language newspaper usually carries schedules of events for the coming week. The Reporter comes out on Saturdays and is available free at numerous locations around town. We often get ours at the coffee place on the corner of the Ajijic Plaza across from the Jardin Restaurant. Other sources of annually scheduled fiestas can be found on Google.

I should also mention that the tianguis itself is a must-see for visitors. This street market has ancient origins and occurs every Wednesday from about 10 AM to about 2 PM. The site is on Calle Revolution from the Carretera (the main drag through Ajijic) down toward the Lake to Calle Constitution (which becomes Ocampo further west). What will you find? Folk art, crafts, jewelry, clothing, fresh fruits and vegetables and other food, some hot prepared food, and everything else you can imagine from watch batteries to underwear. If your visitors can't manage an hour or two of fascinated wandering here, they don't have a shopping bone in their bodies.

A touch of luxury at the Hotel Real de Chapala. The most luxurious large hotel in Ajijic, in my opinion, is the Hotel Real de Chapala, located right on the Lake in the eastern Ajijic neighborhood of La Floresta. It is one of the few places around Lake Chapala resembling what one might think of as a "resort hotel". Above, Beth basks in the mid-day February sun by the pool, which has a 180 degree overlook of the Lake. We have never stayed here, but have come sometimes for lunch or dinner in their very nice patio restaurant which sits next to the pool and has an equally great view. Just the place to spend a few leisurely mid-day hours, browsing your food and chatting as the light dances across the lake and fluffy clouds cast shadows on the mountains beyond. In Mexico, the waiters would consider it extremely rude to press you to finish up and move on, as often happens north of the border. The prices at Real de Chapala are on the high side for here, but would be moderate by US or Canadian standards.

Your host for this tour of Lakeside attractions. Here, I am posing for my sister's photograph next to one of the unusual metal-sphere sculptures which double as fountains in the patio of the Real de Chapala. My wife calls this my "Amish preacher's outfit". I just like casual.

This completes my post on local attractions. Let me assure you that this barely scratches the surface of all the things you can do. It only represents the things I scheduled for my own relatives, taking into account their interests and limitations. Doing a little advance research, locally if you live here, or by Google if you don't, can tremendously enhance a visit.

Hasta luego! Jim

Maestros de Arte: Lake Chapala's folk art fair

Butterflies of death.  In early November, Carole and I visited the Feria Maestros de Arte (Masters of Art Fair) held at the Yacht Club in Chapala, about 5 miles east of Ajijic. The Yacht club sits right on the edge of the Lake and the late Fall day was sunny and gorgeous.  The skull above is an example of Mexico's whimsical attitude toward death. Butterflies have been revered in Mexico back to the  earliest civilizations, and have sometimes been connected with death. The artist here uses the Monarch butterfly to adorn a highly decorated skull.  Monarchs are famous for their incredible migration from Canada to Michoacan State, where they nest in the millions.

The Feria Maestros de Arte is an annual non-profit art show created and run (with plenty of volunteer help) by Marianne Carlson.  Carlson, an artist herself, travels around Mexico to visit remote towns and villages where folk art is still produced the traditional way.  She recruits the artists and craftspeople to come to the Feria and display their work.  

Huichol indian at work.  A gorgeously attired Huichol works on a small creation he hopes to sell in the Feria. Every part of the Huichol native dress has a meaning.  This is not a costume, only to be brought out and worn on special occasions or for tourists.  This is how they dress for everyday life.  I have seen photographs of Huicholes in their remote homeland dressed in similar outfits while tending crops or grinding corn for tortillas.  The Huichol native land lies in remote mountain valleys on the border of Jalisco and Nayarit States. They are a poor but very proud people.  Their displacement from some of their lands has led many to migrate to the Lake Chapala area where they are often seen on the streets and at the Wednesday tianguis (street market) selling their incredibly intricate bead creations. 

Huichol bead creations utilize abstract and animal symbols. The jewelry above is typical of what Huichols sell on the street.  Some of the crafts are much bigger and  more intricate, taking the three-dimensional shapes of turtles, jaguars, and other animals. A friend of mine once calculated that a one-foot square creation contained 60,000 beads. I asked a craftsman once how long a large piece on which he was working would take to finish.  He looked at me for a moment and said "until I am done".

Taking it easy the old-fashioned way.  The figure above is a reproduction of the pre-hispanic style. The ancients of Western Mexico often portrayed human and animal  figures in a very naturalistic way, similar to this one.

Three men and a dog.  Dogs were a common theme in pre-hispanic Western Mexico.  The artists' representation above closely resembles 500+ years-old figures I have seen in the Museo Regional de Guadalajara (see my two-part posting  from the November archive).  

Oaxacan weaver spinning wool by hand. The Indio woman above demonstrated the ancient technique of wool-spinning. Before spinning, she carded the wool with the tool at her feet. Examples of her final products hang around her.  She was assisted by two adolescent girls, possibly family members, who were learning her techniques. Weavers from Oaxaca State in Southern Mexico are renowned for their rugs, blankets and other woven products.

Hand-operated loom is a work of art in itself. This is not a museum artifact from a bygone day. Looms like this are functional and use no energy other than that generated by the operator. While strolling around Ajijic, I have come across several similar looms. Their operators have been very gracious in allowing  me to observe them at their work. Notice how the moving parts are connected by twine. There is very little metal in this wooden structure.

Catrina on the way to the water well. Several of the artists specialized in Catrinas, which are closely associated with the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Catrinas (known as Catrinos if they portray a male figure) grew out of cartoons by a Mexican journalist Guadalupe Posada who portrayed people from all stations of society as skeletons wearing their natural dress and performing everyday activities.  He especially loved showing Mexican woman of the upwardly striving classes wearing the French fashions of the day, with the low cut dresses showing off the bare bones of their chests. Catrina dolls have become a Mexican tradition and can be found in all sizes from a few inches tall to over six feet.

Catrina at work in her kitchen. The artist here shows a Catrina in a particular style of native dress working in a wonderfully decorated kitchen.  A Catrina-style pet enjoys dinner out of his bowl. The addition of the dog adds a nice touch to the humorous tableau.

Flaming skull contains details within details. Notice that the eyes of the skull are tiny skulls themselves.  Various small creatures crawl about among the flames sprouting from the skull. I found this an especially striking creation.

The raffle prize I didn't win.  This skull, by a different artist, was one of the prizes offered in a raffle at the Feria.  We bought several tickets, but since I had never in my life won a raffle, I had no expectations. Later we got a call to pick up our prize. I had lusted after this skull but, alas, it went to someone else. The decoration reminded  me of  the fantastically intricate doodles my boss used to create during especially boring meetings.

Hand-painted plate created through ancient techniques. The artist did everything by hand, using methods handed down though generations of craftsmen.  It takes a steady hand and good eye to paint the finely detailed figures and designs.

Young dancers added extra sparkle to the Feria. There were several groups of dancers at the Feria and we got to see this troupe perform traditional campesino dances.  In this particular dance, the pretty girl flirts with the young boy and they playfully struggle over her water jug which inevitably breaks.  He is crestfallen, but is rewarded with a sweet kiss. 

Young beauty takes a bow. At the end of one of her performances, this  young beauty curtsied to the crowd. Her fellow performers look on appreciatively, and perhaps enviously. Like everyone else, we were captivated. Dances like this have been performed at public events for centuries.

This concludes my posting on the Feria Maestros de Arts.  In a future post I will show the workshops in Tonala, Guadalajara where some wonderful crafts can be seen in the process of creation.  Please feel free to comment below or by email if you'd like.

Hasta luego, Jim