Valladolid Adventures Part 6 of 22: Mesón de Marqués, once a Spanish colonial mansion, now an excellent hotel

Entrance to Hotel Mesón de Marques. A mesón is a colonial-era mansion. Marqués refers to a rank within the Spanish nobility, second only to a duque (duke). The mansion, built in the 17th century, once belonged to a very important man among the colonial-era Spaniards of Yucatan. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to identify exactly who this person was. However, I do know something about the Spanish nobility in colonial Mexico.

While some men were already members of the nobility when they arrived from Spain, others were elevated from the status of commoner. This would happen after they had performed an important service for the Spanish king. In fact, Spanish commoners often emigrated to the New World in hopes of gaining a fortune and a title. So, while the hotel's Marqués could have been a noble when he got to Mexico, if he was a commoner any service provided would have had to be extraordinary to be given that rank.

After the 1810-21 War of Independence, much of the Spanish elite class, including members of the nobility, were expelled from Mexico. It is likely that the Marqués and his family departed at that time. The méson was then acquired by a wealthy Mexican family who passed it down from generation to generation until 1967, when the old mansion was converted into a hotel. 

Foyer of the hotel. While Mesón de Marqués has many modern amenities, much of its original colonial character has been maintained. Upon entering, we were greeted by a lovely woman dressed in traditional colonial fashion. The floor's stone tiles and the rough wooden rafters are both original features. The arch in the background leads into the restaurant, which surrounds what was originally the méson's courtyard. 

When the hotel was first established, it had only six guest rooms, a kitchen, and a courtyard. Today, the hotel has ninety rooms and a restaurant. Carole and agree that this is one of our all-time favorite hotels in Mexico. That's saying a lot because we have stayed in many of them. Hotel Méson de Marqués is centrally located, has great charm and architectural beauty, is efficient and comfortable, has an outstanding restaurant, and is reasonably priced. We could hardly ask for more.

Colonial-era painting of an angel holding a palm frond. Many antique furnishings and decorations can be found in the part of the hotel that was once the colonial mansion. This old painting hangs on the wall of the foyer. The unnamed angel holds a palm frond, which is a symbol of peace. As far as I can tell, only archangels like San Miguel were given names. I searched the internet for images of angels with palm fronds, but could find none that were named. This fellow must be a rank-and-file angel, the type who just runs heavenly errands.

The formal dining room has rough rafters like those in the foyer. The far wall contains a painting of Mexico's Patron, the Virgen de Guadalupe. She has been widely revered since the 16th century. This room was probably used by the early hotel to feed the guests. Today, it is reserved for private dinners or meetings. When the méson was used as a residence by the Marqués and later by the family that bought it in 19th century, every seat would have been filled by their large families.

In addition, special guests would have been invited to dine with them. These would have included officials of the government and the Church, wealthy local merchants, and important travelers passing through through the area. The conversations around the table would have included local political news, the progress of Yucatan's many wars and uprisings, and upcoming fiestas.

A charming display of local produce stood in one of the hallways,  Included are locally grown pineapples, papaya, watermelon, pumpkins, and chiles. Overhead, dried gourds hang in a bundle, ready to be used as containers. Produce like this depends upon the availability of water, which is scarce in much of Yucatan. In the northern part of the Peninsula there are no above-ground rivers or lakes. Water can be found in underground in aquifers, but these can only be accessed from cenotes and wells. Cenote Zaci, located near the hotel, was once the main water source for the pre-hispanic city of Zaci, Valladolid's predecessor.

The hotel restaurant is called Hostería del Marqués. Diners include not only those from the hotel but also from the local community. One of the nice amenities offered by the hotel to its guests is a free breakfast each morning. Upon check-in, you get a series of tickets according to the number of mornings you will be here. The Hostería's tables line both sides of the arcade that surrounds what was once the courtyard of the colonial-era méson. Diners can enjoy fresh air with their meal, while being protected from the sun or rain. 

The columns of the arcade support arches called portales. In the center of the Hostería's courtyard is a fountain, surrounded by a lush garden. I noticed that all three people in the foreground appear to be completely absorbed in their electronic gadgets. I have been guilty of this upon occasion, but I try not to do it except when I am alone. When others are present, I generally put my iPad or smart phone away.  The social impact of electronics, especially smart phones, seems very detrimental to interpersonal relations. I also find it annoying when people in a place like this talk loudly into their phones, acting as if they are alone.

In the rear, another courtyard is surrounded by guest rooms rising four stories. On the roof is an open deck with a panoramic view. The original méson had only one story. Sometime later, probably in the 20th century, four stories of rooms were added in back. Thankfully, the builders maintained a colonial style of architecture. This includes arcades with portales along each floor and balconies with french doors on the rooms overlooking the courtyard. The courtyard itself has trees and a garden, as well as a pool. At the rear of the hotel, secure off-street free parking can be accessed from Calle 37 (37th St).

The balcony door is framed by artfully-carved cantera stone. Cantera is a light stone that has been quarried since pre-hispanic times because it can be easily carved. The wooden balcony has only enough room to stand on, but it still would be nice to have one of these attached to your room. We have learned through long experience to avoid rooms that face onto the street. There is often far too much noise at night, particularly if you are overlooking a plaza, or are near one. A room will tend to be quieter if it faces an interior courtyard, like this one, or faces out from the rear of your hotel, . 

Our room was attractive, comfortable, and functional. We were charmed to find the towels on the bed arranged into the form of a swan. There are rooms with a greater level of luxury in this hotel, but this one had all we really require. A comfortable bed, plumbing that works, hot water, and a functional TV remote is enough to make us happy. 

We don't spend a lot of time in hotel rooms, except to sleep, or change clothes. To us, it makes no sense to spend a lot of money on luxurious extras that we barely use. Our real purpose is to explore the outside world, not hang out in our room. This being the case, an in-room safe is another essential item to us. We use it to safeguard important documents like passports, all of our money except what's needed for that day, and our camera and iPad. Each room at this hotel is equipped with a safe. 

A couple of guests chat by the courtyard's pool. The presence of a pool can cool down an area when the weather is overly warm, even if you don't use it to swim. This would be a nice spot to sip a cup of coffee in the morning or enjoy a glass of wine on a balmy evening. We only visit Yucatan during the winter, because we find the summer weather to be humid and hot. In addition, although mosquitoes are not completely absent during winter, they are less bothersome in that season.

This completes Part 6 of my Valladolid Adventures series. I hope you enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question, please include your email address so that I may respond in a timely fashion.

Hasta luego, Jim

Valladolid Adventures Part 1 of 22: A jewel among Yucatan's treasures

Statue on the central fountain of Parque Principal Francisco Cantón Rosado. She is called "La Mestiza" (meaning mixed Spanish and Maya) and wears an embroidered huipil, the traditional garb women in Yucatan. Manuel Cachón sculpted the statue in 1924. His original work was replaced for a time by a monument to the heroes of June 4, 1910, who ignited the Mexican Revolution. Eventually, that monument was itself replaced by this replica of the original. La Mestiza's smile epitomizes the friendly, laid-back local attitude.

In Part 1 of my Valladolid Adventures series, I will do something a little different from my past practices. I intend to briefly highlight some--but not all by far--of the fascinating things to see and do in this small city in central Yucatan. Each of these places will be covered in some depth in future parts of the series. My future postings will also cover nearby places we visited on day-trips outside Valladolid. These will include Maya sites like Ek Balam, Cobá, and Muyil, and the great colonial-era monastery at Izamal. If the Yucatan Peninsula is a treasure chest of experiences, Valladolid shines as one of the brightest jewels.

Overview

Google map of our route from Mérida to Valladolid. In January of 2017, we flew into Mérida from Guadalajara, and rented a car at the airport. We stayed the night at a nearby hotel so we would be fresh for our drive the next morning. It is a pretty straight-forward route. You head south on the highway from the airport and look for signs for the Mérida Periferico and Cancun. Once on the Periferico, you travel for 19 km (11.8 mi) or 20 minutes. Turn right at the exit for Cancun, onto the autopista Highway 180. (Alternatively, you could fly into Cancun and drive from there to Valladolid, about the same distance.)

The Highway 180 autopista (high-speed toll road) should be in excellent condition. Follow 180 for about 2 hours until you come to the exit on the right for Valladolid. From the exit, drive 5.6 km (3.5 mi) south along Highway 295 to Parque Principal in the center of the city. We stayed at Hotel Mesón Marquis, which faces the Parque's north side. There are other good hotels in Valladolid, but we chose this one because it was central and within walking distance of nearly everything we wanted to see. For a Google interactive map, click here.

Parque Principal Francisco Cantón Rosado

The fountain of La Mestiza is surrounded by a circle of benches. Walkways radiate out from the path around the circle. Through the trees on the south side of the Parque, you can see the bell towers of Templo San Servacio, Valladolid's main church. Although the Parque is generally fairly serene, there was a colorful fiesta during part of our visit, with booths selling a variety of handicrafts. In the next posting of this series, I will give you a taste of this vibrant event.

The Parque Principal stands in an area once covered by a Maya pyramid that was 100 m2 (109.3 yds2). Following the usual Spanish practice, the pyramid was demolished and its materials were used to build the City Hall, mansions for the conquistadors, and an earlier version of the Templo San Servacio, . The space left by the removal of the pyramid became Plaza de Armas, so-named because that was where the colonial militia met to drill. In 1900, the plaza became Parque Principal Francisco Cantón Rosado, named for the Governor of Yucatan who donated the fences surrounding the Parque. 

Templo San Servacio

The church resembles a fortress because it occasionally functioned as one. Notice the high walls and three vertical gun slits on each tower, placed there to be used during periodic Maya revolts. Since the Maya refused to stay conquered, the Spanish buildings had to be defensible. As mentioned above, the original church was built from materials looted from the pyramid of Zaci. That was the name of the people living in the area when the Spanish arrived. After the conquistador Francisco de Montejo el Sobrino defeated them, he named his new city Valladolid, which was the name of the city that was then capital of Spain. 

As I mentioned, the church above is not the original Templo San Servacio. That structure was demolished in 1705 on the order of the bishop, Don Pedro de los Rios Reyes, "to help erase the stain" of a crime that had been committed on its premises. In a future posting, I will detail how it was that the church came to be rebuilt in its present form. Visitors to my blog may have noticed that I spend a lot of time photographing and talking about religious structures like this one. I am not a religious person myself, but I do admire the artistry and cultural significance of Mexico's colonial heritage, as well as its pre-hispanic heritage. 

Hotel Mesón de Marques

Courtyard and swimming pool of our hotel. I took this shot from the balcony just outside of our room. This hotel was one of the nicest we have stayed at during our time in Mexico. The location of the hotel was ideal for exploring the city on foot. The staff were friendly, efficient, and helpful. One of the best aspects was the restaurant, located around another courtyard, where we ate most of our breakfasts and dinners. The food was delicious, reasonably priced, and the service was excellent. A future posting will cover this very special hotel.

The Méson de Marques (Mansion of the Marquis), was built in the 17th century for a high-level member of the Spanish aristocracy. In colonial times, the most important members of the local community built their homes facing the main plaza of a city, or along streets adjacent to it. The further out you lived, the lower your social status. The indigenous people lived on the outskirts and provided the cooks, maids, gardeners, and other servants of the wealthier classes. All this didn't happen by accident. It was the result of deliberate colonial urban planning dictated by Spanish King Phillip II in the last part of the 16th century. 

Ex-Convento San Bernardino de Siena de Sisal

View of the Ex-Convento from the right. The distant figure in the center is Carole. Construction on this Franciscan ex-convento (now a museum) began in 1552 and was completed in 1560. That's quite a rapid pace for such a large structure. In fact, it is the second largest Franciscan construction in Yucatan, covering 14,121 sq meters (15,442 sq yds). Included in the complex are the church, cloister, chapel, and orchard. The ornate retablo behind the church's main altar is particularly notable. Given the size of the complex, I will probably do more than one posting on it later in this series.

For those who viewed my recent series on the Franciscan convents in the Sierra Gorda, you will recall that the Franciscans played a major role in Mexico during the so-called "Spiritual Conquest". Some of the young Franciscans who worked in the Sierra Gorda ended up in leadership positions in the Yucatan missions later in their lives. That the Yucatan's two largest conventos were both Franciscan shows the significance of the Order's role here. Ex-Convento San Bernardino de Siena is located about 7 blocks southwest of the Parque.

Cenote Zaci

Cenote Zaci is a deep, shady, water-filled pit in the limestone crust of Yucatan. The small floating objects in the water are swimmers. The figure dressed in red by the tree on the left provides a sense of scale. Cenote Zaci is open from 8:30am to 5:30pm with a modest entrance fee of 30 pesos ($1.50 USD). There are changing rooms and restrooms as well as an adjacent restaurant. Lifejackets are also available. Only a few of Yucatan's cenotes are located so conveniently within a town. This one is just 4 blocks northwest of the Parque Principal. 

Cenotes are found throughout northern Yucatan and were the main water source for the ancient Maya civilizations that developed here. Including Cenote Zaci, Valladolid has at least two cenotes within blocks of where the Zaci pyramid once stood. Most of Yucatan is a flat, porous limestone shelf. Rainwater seeps down into it to form underground pools. The crust over some of these pools eventually erodes and collapses, leaving an open pool. The meteor that struck the coast of Yucatan 60 million years ago not only killed all the dinosaurs but created a series of concentric cracks in the limestone which helped create the cenotes.

Museo Regional San Roques

Ancient Maya stucco mask. The facial features include a rounded, chubby face, thick lips and a flattened nose. These give the mask an uncanny resemblance to those on the great stone Olmec heads found in the State of Veracruz. The Olmec heads were found hundreds of miles away from Valladolid, and their civilization died out at least 1000 years before this mask was made. I therefore found the resemblance very odd. I would be open to hearing from anyone who can enlighten me about this. The mask, along with other Maya artifacts, are displayed in the Museo Regional San Roque, about 1 block east of the Parque Principal. 

The site of the museum has a long and colorful history. It was originally a 4-bed hospital, founded as Hospital del Santo Nombre de Jesus in 1575 by Valladolid Mayor Don Diego Sarmiento de Figueroa. This evolved into the Convento de San Roque and by 1645 the hospital was the best in the province. All this has long since disappeared except for the temple to San Roque. Several historical figures are buried under the museum's courtyard, including those killed in the crime that resulted in the demolishment of the Temple of San Servacio, as well as activists executed at the beginning of the Mexican Revolution.

Iglesia Santa Ana

Iglesia de Santa Ana, seen through one of the triple arches of its front gate. This small 16th century church was originally built for the Maya natives. At that time, all services except mass were conducted in their language. Santa Ana, the church's patron, is said to be the mother of the Virgin Mary. These very early colonial structures represent a world very different from today's modern, bustling Mexico. The structure still functions as a church after 500 years. I very much appreciate the effort Mexicans take to preserve their heritage. A future posting will take a closer look at the church, both inside and out.

Part of the open space in front of the church, called the atrium, later became a neighborhood park. It was in this park that Manuel Antonio Ay was hanged on June 30, 1847. He was an early leader of the Caste War (1847-1915), a great Maya revolt that nearly drove the Spanish out of Yucatan. Today the park contains a monument to Los Heroes Niños (the Child Heroes), commemorating the cadets who died fighting the U.S. forces that had invaded Mexico in 1846. Several young cadets died defending Chapultepec Castle. One of them, rather than surrender, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and jumped off the high parapet.

Hacienda San Lorenzo & Cenote Oxmán

The casa grande of the hacienda has been transformed into a a hotel. Hacienda San Lorenzo was constructed in 1746. There is very little information available about its early history, some sources suggest that this hacienda may have grown agave for mezcal, a liquor similar to tequila. Distilling these liquors became important in the last half of the 18th century, so production soared. In addition haciendas in this area produced corn, cattle, and sugar. Sisal, a plant native to Yucatan, was also grown at many 19th century haciendas in north central Yucatan. It was used for twine to bale wheat sheaves and for rope to rig ships. 

The hacienda has the advantage of possessing the Oxmán Cenote, one of at least two within Valladolid. This was fortunate for the original hacienda owners because there are no rivers and very little above ground water in northern Yucatan. Lack of water inhibited crop production of any but drought-resistant plants like agave and sisal. The cenote here is very similar in size and shape to Zaci Cenote. Like at Zaci, you can swim here and there were several people in the water when we visited. As you can see above, the casa grande's pool was empty, so the experience of diving into the Oxmán Cenote must have been captivating.

Centro Artesanal Zaci

Zaci's handicrafts center faces the Parque Principal, on its north side. The Centro Artesenal Zaci stands next to Hotel Mesón de Marques on its west side. It was once a the mansion of a conquistador, but it later became part of the Casa Cural (parsonage or priest's house). 

Refurbished in the 19th century, the building housed the Model Central School in 1906 and the Military Exercises Professorship in 1908. The Bolio family owned the property as a private home for a time, but in 1940 it again became a school named after local luminary Delio Moreno Cartón. In 2007, the school was moved and the Valladolid Administration opened the Centro Artesenal Zaci. (Photo from En-Yucatan website)

Casa de los Venados

"Hi! What's up? Come on in and relax!" A scary skeleton, with a somewhat off-putting expression, greeted us when we arrived at Casa de los Venados (House of the Deer). This is the home of Mr. and Mrs. John Venator, who own Mexico's largest private collection of folk art. Over 35 years, they gathered more than 3000 items, including some of the most extraordinary I have yet encountered. After we made the expected donation of $100 pesos ($5.00 USD), our Mexican guide Freddy showed us around the place. Neither the Venators nor Freddy had any problem with the considerable number of photos I took. 

John Venator retired to Yucatan after a career as a CEO of an international trade organization in Chicago. He and his wife looked at various places in both Mérida and Valladolid before buying this 18,000 square foot property. It has become both their home and their private museum. The house was largely in ruins when they purchased it, but they remodeled it over 8 years, first for vacations, then as their retirement home. Casa de los Venados is 1/2 block south of the Parque Principal. They share it with a small terrier who loves to sit on John's lap. Whatever else you decide to see in Valladolid, don't miss a visit to this place!

This completes Part 1 of my Valladolid Adventures series. In Part 2, I will show you around the Parque Principal and the colorful fiesta we encountered there. I hope you enjoyed this first part. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a comment, please remember to include your email address so that I can respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim

The historic sites of Haciendas de Corralejo & San Gregorio, in the Bajío Region of Guanajuato

Entrance to Hacienda San de Gregorio's courtyard. The view is toward the gate and through it to the street. The view from the street of the front of the casa grande reveals only the gate and the high casco wall and it was not very photogenic. Accordingly, all of my shots here are of the area within the casco, including the courtyard, the interior of the casa grande, and the ruins of the old bodega (barn) in the rear.

We visited this hacienda the same day we stopped at Hacienda Santa Ana Pacueco (see previous post). After Santa Ana Pacueco, we headed to San Gregorio, passing through the pueblo of Ex-Hacienda de Corralejo on the way. We didn't stop at Correlejo due to limited time, but it is an historic landmark that is worth a look. I include a photo and a little information about it below.

How to get to the area. To save space in this posting, I refer you to the directions given to Hacienda Santa Ana Pacueco, up to the point where you turn off Highway 110 onto the 90D cuota (toll road) which bypasses La Piedad to the north, heading toward Irapuato. Continue to a toll booth which marks the end of 90D and the beginning of Highway 90, a libre (non-toll) road. 

Highway 90 is a good road. It is 4-lane, divided, and high-speed, except as you pass through the town of Pénjamo. About 9km (6mi) past Pénjamo, look for a tall statue in the median strip on your left. About 200m (219yds) past the statue is a retorno (turn around) on your left. There, you reverse direction on Highway 90. Don't miss this turn or you will have to travel a considerable distance before you can cross the median again. 

Take your first right, opposite the statue. This is the road that will pass through the pueblo of Hacienda de Corralejo and continue on to the pueblo of San Gregorio. On the way to Hacienda de Corralego, you will pass through a small town called Estación Corralejo with a facility making Tequila Hacienda de Corralego. This is not the pueblo with the ex-hacienda, which is still about 4km (2.5mi) further on. 

Near the entrance of the actual pueblo of Hacienda de Corralego, the road takes a dog-leg turn to the left. This is the historic site, where you will see a small church and some low ruined walls. After your visit, continue on the same road to San Gregorio. The town has two entrances, but the second (western) entrance is better marked. To help you find the Hotel Hacienda de San Gregorio, here is a Googe map. You can expand this Google interactive map to examine any portion of the route.

Ex-Hacienda de Corralejo

Parroquia del Señor de la Misericordia and the historic ruins. The church used to be the capilla (chapel). The Correlejo hacienda was founded in 1566 by Don Alonso de Angulo y Montesino. I have little information about him except that while living in Michoacan in 1554, he paid Ximón Rodríguez "500 gold pesos, due to the purchase of a black slave named Cristóbal, from the land of Zape, and 12 horses, 9 saddled…" During the 141 years after its founding, the estate grew into one of the largest in western Mexico. 

Inventories from the early 18th century* show that, between 1707 and 1728, Hacienda de Corralego owned 41 sitios de ganado major (for cattle, horses), 26 sitios de ganado minor (for sheep, pigs, goats) and 28 1/2 caballerias (farmland for wheat, corn). All this totaled a whopping 233,000 acres, stretching over parts of today's Guanajuato, Michoacan, and Jalisco states. An assessment in 1707 valued the property at 68,567 pesos. The hacienda also owned 14 mulatto slaves valued at 3,330 pesos.

In 1657, the Alcocer family acquired the property and held it until 1707, by which time it was heavily in debt. So heavily, in fact, that the Alcocers owed 2,768 pesos in back pay to their 28 shepherds and 8,725 pesos to other workers. Even worse, they had taken loans from the Church for 72,834 pesos, more than the estate was worth. The 1707 assessment was part of a sale to an absentee owner, who then hired a series of professional administrators to run the place. 

By 1728, the new administrators had increased the sheep herd to 24,000, the cattle to 2,700, and brood mares to 2,250. The presence of 85 oxen indicates an increase in cultivated land. In the middle of the 18th century, one of these administrators was a man named Cristóbal Hidalgo y Costilla. Between 1759 and 1761, he built the Parroquia shown above, a remarkably quick project for the time. 

Previous to this project, Cristóbal had married Ana Maria Gallaga. In 1753, a son was born to them in the casa grande. His parents named him Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and he later became a priest. On September 15, 1810, it was his grito (cry for revolt) on the steps of his church in the pueblo of Dolores that launched the Mexican war for independence from Spain. The fact that the Father of Mexican Independence was born and raised here gives the site its historic significance.

*Haciendas and Ranchos in the Mexican Bajio, D.A. Brading, Cambridge University Press, London, 1978. Pages 22-24

Hotel Ex-Hacienda de San Gregorio

Exterior

Google satellite view of the hacienda's casco and adjacent field. The buildings within the casco wall include the casa grande in the upper left with the red-tiled roof, a work area behind it with a row of pillars on the right. The large field to the right, with the red marker, was once possibly an orchard or food garden for the household or perhaps a pasture for the horses.

This hacienda was founded in 1580 and, compared to Santa Ana Pacueco and Corralejo, it grew slowly and appears to have remained relatively small, at least during its first 150 years or so. By 1718, the estate possessed only 2 sitios de ganado major and 2 caballerias for a total of 8,778 acres. The reasons for this are unclear because the records from this early period are sparse.

Arcade to the right of the entrance gate. (Photo from Hotel ex-Hacienda San Gregorio website) The entrance gate gives access to the central courtyard, which has arcades supported by pillars on three of its sides. The doors along this side open into bedrooms. This would be a lovely spot to enjoy breakfast or an afternoon drink. 

Despite the hacienda's relatively small size, dramatic events involving two colorful but very different characters occurred on its property during the Mexican War of Independence. 

The first character was a young officer named Javier Mina. He is honored by a street named after him near my condo in Ajijic. At a young age, Mina  became a general in the insurgent army fighting the Spanish. Martín Francisco Javier Mina y Larrea was born in 1789, the year the French Revolution began. The ramifications and aftershocks of that great convulsion shaped his short 28-year life. 

The son of a wealthy farmer in Navarre, Spain, Mina began to study law in Zaragoza at the age of 18 and became an attorney. The French Revolution was an exciting period in history and he absorbed many of its ideals. However, by 1808, all that had devolved into tyranny under Napoleon Bonaparte.

Jerry, one of our Hacienda Hunters, photographs the courtyard. The casa grande was built in classic colonial style. The single-story rectangular structure faces inward to the courtyard. The four sides contain the kitchen, dining room, and various living areas including bedrooms. All are accessed from the courtyard. The mountain peak jutting over the wall in the background is part of the Sierra de Pénjamo, which contains hiking trails and historic sites like Fuerte de los Remedios and Cueva de Padre Torres.

In 1808, Napoleon decided to invade his erstwhile ally Spain, depose its king, and install his own brother Joseph on the throne. This resulted in a fierce Spanish insurgency against the usurper. From this struggle, the term guerrilla war was created. 

The young lawyer Javier Mina soon raised an insurgent force of over 1,200 infantry and 150 cavalry. With them, he harassed the French forces for two years until 1810, when he was captured and imprisoned in France. When Napoleon's government collapsed in 1814, Mina was finally released.  

This lovely old fountain is one of the courtyard's highlights. Such fountains are another classic feature of Mexican haciendas. In the early years, a courtyard like this would have been a work area for the domestic servants. Later, in the 19th century, casa grande courtyards were often transformed into gardens where the hacendado (owner) and his family could relax. The pattern of stones in the grass suggests that the courtyard may have once been fully cobblestoned.

While Mina was imprisoned, things had changed in Spain. King Ferdinand VII (son of the king deposed by Napoleon) had abolished the democratic government set up to oppose the usurper Joseph and re-imposed absolute monarchy. Mina participated in an abortive plot against Ferdinand, but had to flee to France when it was discovered. He then traveled to England, where he was recruited to join the independence movement that had begun under Hidalgo in 1810.

Hacienda Hunters explore one of the courtyard's arcades. This arcade runs along the side of the courtyard that is parallel to the front of the hacienda. The doorways along it open into bedrooms. The arcade itself provides an open living area for guests.

In 1816, the young insurgent leader traveled to Baltimore, in the United States. There, he was encouraged and financed by Spanish and American merchants who hoped to profit from an independent Mexico. In April 1817, Mina arrived in Tamaulipas, Mexico. He was now a general of the insurgency and led a force of 250 men made up largely of ex-officers from all sides in the Napoleonic Wars. Mina intended to join insurgent leader Guadalupe Victoria in southern Mexico, but did not get beyond the area of the Bajio region.  

Some of the arcade's decorations. An antique birdcage stands beside the winged and sword-brandishing statue of Archangel Michael. Decorations with religious themes are common in Mexican haciendas. Catholicism dominated life in the colonial and early Republic eras, particularly in the rural areas. The Reform War (1858-61), the Mexican Revolution (1910-17), and the Cristero War (1926-29), have greatly diminished the power of Mexico's Church, but it still plays a significant role in daily life.

While he had had some success using guerilla tactics in Spain and Mexico, Mina was generally unsuccessful in more conventional warfare. He was besieged by Spanish regular troops in the insurgent stronghold near Léon known as Fuerte Sombrero (Hat Fort), but escaped before it finally fell to the Spanish. 

Interior

The dining room has a large table with seating for at least ten. The red-tile floor is still another traditional feature. Tile floors are easier to sweep and mop than those of wood or covered by rugs. Such dining rooms were used to entertain guests and as meeting places for business or political affairs.

After the fall of Fuerte Sombrero, Mina attempted to relieve the siege of another insurgent fortresss, the Fuerte de los Remedios (Fort of the Remedies). The remains of this stronghold stand in the Sierra de Penjamo on lands once belonging to Hacienda de San Gregorio. They are about 2 km (1.2mi) from the casa grande and are accessible today by hiking trail.

The execution of General Javier Mina. Unfortunately, Javier Mina's attempt to drive the Spanish away from Fuerte de los Remedios was unsuccessful. He was captured in October of 1817 and taken to Silao, near the city of Guanajuato. However, Mina was soon returned to Pascual Liñán, the commander of the Spanish forces besieging Fuerte de los Remedios. 

Hoping to demoralize the defenders, Liñán executed Mina by firing squad within sight of the fort. The insurgents continued to hold out, but two months later the stronghold fell. Some of the defenders surrendered, while others escaped. The dramatic death of  Francisco Javier Mina y Larrea ended his heroic and tempestuous life and established Hacienda de San Gregorio's connection to the history of Independencia.

Along one side of the dining room is a large sideboard/buffet. In the background is the entrance into a kitchen that looks capable of serving up quite a feast. Notice the antique clock on the wall with the Roman numerals for time markers.

Among those who escaped the fall of Fuerte de los Remedios was the other character who figures in the area's history and in one of its grisly legends. Padre José Antonio Torres (1770-1819) was one of the warrior-priests who, like Hidalgo, were attracted to the independence movement and rose in it as leaders. He should not be confused with another insurgent leader of the same name, but who was not a priest. 

Sitting room fireplace. This space was part of a suite entered from one of the arcades along the courtyard walls. Arranged around the curve of the fireplace chimney are various small tools typical of those used by hacienda blacksmiths for attending to the hooves of horses. Little touches like this provide a lot a character to the old casa grande.

Padre Torres was entirely unlike Javier Mina, almost a polar opposite. To begin with, Torres was a criollo (Spanish, but born in the Mexico), while Mina was a peninsulare (born in Spain and therefore socially superior). Torres had never traveled the world, like Mina, but lived his life entirely in Guanajuato and Michoacan. 

He was older than Mina and managed to outlive him, but not by much. Torres was also disobedient, treacherous, greedy, and murderous. In short, he lacked the noble ideals and heroism so prominent in Javier Mina. His death, unlike Mina's, was not one of great drama, but sordid and almost trivial. 

Bedrooms are simple but comfortable. Their decorations match the hacienda style. This must be a room meant for families, given the second bed. I have noticed this in many haciendas, both those kept as museums and those converted into boutique hotels. Mexicans, who tend to have larger families than those living north of the border, usually travel together and often all sleep in the same room.

During Torres' work at the vicarage of Cuitzeo de Porvenir in Michoacan, Hidalgo's revolt broke out. The padre soon joined the insurgent movement and began campaigning in Michoacan and around Pénjamo in Guanajuato. Like Mina and other insurgent commanders, Torres had some success against the Spanish with guerrilla tactics, but usually failed when he tried to take on royalist forces in conventional warfare. 

Some of his guerrilla actions appear to have been little more than banditry but, in fairness, the line between insurgency and banditry was pretty thin in this period. Torres was known--and hated--for sacking and burning ranches and smaller towns like Yuricuaro. He had learned to target them because they were the easiest targets for supplies and loot.

Rear area

The back wall of the casa grande, facing the enclosed work area.  Like the courtyard, the surface of this space appears to have been completely cobblestoned at one time. When the hacienda was a functioning ranch/farm, this work area would have been heavily used, often during the rainy season. The cobblestones helped avoid excessive mud.

Torres set up his headquarters at Fuerte de los Remedios, and began attacking the Spanish. When Javier Mina and other leaders arrived in the area, Torres traveled to Fuerte Sombrero to meet with them. He agreed to cede command to Mina and support him, but did not actually comply. Instead of cutting off Spanish supply routes to relieve the siege of Fuerte Sombrero, Torres confronted the royalists in an open battle and was defeated, forcing the fort's abandonment.

Pillars line one side of the work area. These would have supported the roof of either a bodega (barn) or possibly a stable for the hacendado's horses. I have visited enough haciendas to be able to fairly accurately identify the uses of some of these spaces, according to their location and current appearance. However, other areas often present a complete mystery.

After his disastrous loss of Fuerte Sombrero, Torres then retreated to his stronghold at Fuerte de los Remedios, but was besieged by Pascual Liñán. In spite of Torres disobedience at Fuerte Sombrero, Javier Mina attempted to come to his rescue at Los Remedios, but was defeated, captured, and executed. When Los Remedios finally fell, Torres was among those who escaped. According to local legend, he took along mules loaded with bars of gold.

 

The casco wall shows two layers of construction. The outer layer is stone and probably a product of the 19th century. Behind it is the old adobe wall, possibly dating back to the 16th century. Many haciendas contain sections built centuries ago. During periodic renovations and updates, the old adobe structures were not torn down but simply covered over by stone, brick, or plaster. Inspecting the ruins of an older hacienda is like doing an architectural autopsy.

The legend about Torres' escape with the gold also says he murdered the men with him and either buried the gold or dumped it over a ravine along with the bodies. For many years, local treasure hunters have searched for the gold without success. 

What is not legend is that he lured his lieutenant Lucas Flores to a card game and then ordered his summary execution because Flores had tried and failed to bring supplies to Los Remedios during the siege. At another time, Torres executed a prominent political rival named Remigio Yarza without just cause. 

The Hacienda Hunters with our hosts, the owners. The older gentleman in the center wearing a red sweater and blue jacket is Señor Antonio Alcocer. His wife Señora Pimenta is on the far left. They were very kind and welcoming and eagerly showed us around their beautiful place. Señor Antonio speaks some English and we were able to communicate, particularly since some in our party were fluent in Spanish.

Padre Torres continued to loot and burn local towns and ranches, making enemies among fellow insurgents as well as the royalists. His excesses finally spurred his supporters to change their loyalty to Juan Arago, a Spaniard who had followed Javier Mina to join the insurgency. Torres refused to accept this and joined with another group known as Los Panchones. They seem to have been particularly thuggish, which probably suited Torres' tastes.

On New Year's Day, 1819, Torres was killed rather ignominiously by Capitán Juan Manuel Zamora in a dispute over a card game. Torres had refused to surrender a horse left as security for a bet and the furious Capitán ran him through with a spear. Zamora himself was then killed by one of Los Panchones. Thus ended the career of Padre José Antonio Torres. His activities at Fuerte los Remedios, actual or legendary, add to the fascinating history of Hacienda de San Gregorio.

This completes my posting on Haciendas de Corralejo and San Gregorio. I hope you enjoyed the photos and stories. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question remember to include your email address so that I may respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

Tapalpa Plateau Part 3 of 6: Hotel Casona de Manzano

Hotel Casona Manzano is a former colonial-era mansion. This beautiful property, called a casona (in-town mansion), is more than 200 years old. It is located on the corner of Calles Agustin Yanez and Francisco Madero, two blocks from the main plaza. My research turned up repeated mentions of this Hotel, so I decided to stop by so that the members of my group could learn about the lifestyle of families who owned haciendas but often preferred to live in towns. 

Like Casona de Manzano, many of these old mansions have been converted into hotels in recent years. No advance call was necessary, we just showed up and asked to look around (that's our group in the photo). The staff was very friendly and gave us the run of the place. The original property was built late in the colonial period, toward the end of the 18th century, and has since been owned by the Manzano family ever since. Sra. Irma Manzano, the current owner, was the one who decided to turn it into a boutique hotel. 

The courtyard

The two story home is built around a cobblestone courtyard. The entrance leads in to a short hallway called a zaguan and then into this courtyard. This is a typical feature of Spanish colonial architecture. Most of its 10 guest rooms are arranged around the ground floor. On the second floor, an arcade surrounds and overlooks the courtyard. Ferns and other plants create a cool, garden-like feel on the ground floor. The second floor contains a living room, dining room, kitchen and more guest rooms. 

A typical colonial casona was a comfortable home, and sometimes even opulent. The house was usually located in a town like Tapalpa, not too far from the hacendado's rural estate. Often, casonas can be found on the main plaza or within a couple of blocks of it. Since life on a hacienda was often rustic and towns typically afforded more cultural amenities, casonas were favored for day-to-day living by many hacendados, particularly those with families.

An unusual fountain stands in the center of the courtyard. The central placement of the ceramic pot and its grinning frogs, along with the circular drain, revealed the purpose of this little vignette. It is a typically quirky example of the Mexican sense of humor.

Various headgear hangs on a hatrack near the courtyard's entrance.  I like hats, so my eye was immediately attracted to this display. Prominently placed in the upper center is the classic high-peaked, broad-brimmed Mexican sombrero. Versions of it were worn by all classes of Mexicans for hundreds of years. 

The sombereos that hacendados wore were made with fine, embroidered cloth, much like those still worn by Mexican charros (rodeo riders) and mariachi musicians. The sombreros of peones (farmworkers) were of straw and often tattered. Today, in the rural areas, most men wear American-style cowboy hats. However, I still encounter elderly Mexicans wearing a classic straw sombrero. 

A heavy wrought-iron chandelier hangs near the stairs. In the past, the chandeliers were lit with candles rather than light bulbs. The candles would have been made from the fat of animals raised on a local hacienda, possibly one belonging to a family who also owned the casona. Although Mexico's first electric generating plant began operating in 1879, electrification wasn't widely available in the rural areas until the grid was nationalized during the second half of the 20th century. 

A large, beautifully-carved armoire stands against the courtyard wall. This piece is typical of the massive furniture often favored by hacendados for both their casonas and the casas grandes (big houses) on their haciendas. I rarely encounter closets in colonial and early Republic homes. The favored solution for storing clothing and other items was a large wooden armoire, often exquisitely carved. 

Staircase to the casona's second floor. In one corner of the courtyard, a staircase rises up, supported by a wooden pillar with a wrought-iron railing.

La Sala (Living Room)

At the top of the stairs, a tiled arcade leads to La Sala. The furniture along the wall suggests a bar, but seems to be more decorative than functional. The arcade overlooks the courtyard and extends around the perimeter of the second floor.

La Sala is at the far end of the 2nd floor from the stairs. This inviting room is dominated by a massive fireplace with two large couches and an equipal chair. A case filled with books stands along one wall. Also included is a small table that would easily lend itself to card or board games. Hanging over the center of the room is another old-fashioned chandelier.

In earlier times, families in residence would have been large and multi-generational. They would have relaxed in their sala while drinking tea or hot chocolate. Some would chat or play games like cards or billiards, if a table was available. Guests who brought news from afar or could tell interesting stories were especially valued. Other ways to pass the time included reading and sewing or embroidery. 

More equipal furniture is set along glass windows. The windows separate La Sala from the arcade walkway that overlooks the courtyard. The equipal furniture style dates back to pre-hispanic times. It was described by conquistadors under Hernán Cortéz who saw it used in the court of the Aztec Emperor Moctezuma. Equipal is still very popular throughout Mexico. 

Before the Revolution, the general population was largely illiterate. In contrast, elite families were highly educated and often spoke multiple languages. Children were privately tutored or attended  Church-run schools. As early as the 16th century, the Jesuits began to establish colleges and universities all over colonial Mexico. These institutions continued in operation even after the Jesuits themselves were expelled from Spanish territories in 1767. 

El Comedor (Dining Room)

Between La Sala and the back of the house is a long comedor. The Spanish word for dining room comes from the verb comer (to eat). The beautiful old table can seat eight and possibly more with an extension. A room like this was often used for private business or political gatherings as well as family dining. Since large, extended families could provide valuable connections beneficial to the family businesses, various relatives often occupied key positions in local institutions.

For example, in colonial times, a casona's owner might serve on the governing body of the local alhondiga, a government grain storage facility. The wheat grown on his hacienda would be purchased by the alhondiga and then be sold as flour to local bakers. A banking system didn't exist in colonial society, so a son or daughter might join a religious order through which loans could be obtained for the family businesses. A family member with a military commission might arrange the purchase of the hacienda's horses for the local garrison. 

An iron stove topped with teapots stands in one corner of the comedor. The old stove is for decorative purposes only and the cooking is done in a separate kitchen.

A porch just outside the comedor runs along the back of the house. The view includes the back garden and Tapalpa's wooded hills, with mountains rising in the distance.

Los Cuartos de Huéspedes (Guest rooms)

In addition to individual rooms, the casona has this suite. Three bedrooms open into this sitting room, which is warmed by a big stone fireplace, faced with an overstuffed couch and two comfortable chairs. Another lovely old chandelier provides light. Overseeing everything is large portrait of the Virgen de Guadalupe, Mexico's patron saint.

Some of the individual rooms are quite large. The furniture here appears to be of the Art Deco style from the early 20th century. In addition to single rooms like this one, there are also rooms with two or more beds to accommodate family groups.

This fireplace is typical of those found in each of the rooms. Tapalpa's altitude is 1,950m (6397ft) so the average temperature is cool, ranging from the high 60s F to the low 50s. A crackling fire can provide cheery warmth, especially during those months (June-October) when rain is frequent. 

This completes Part 3 of my Tapalpa Plateau series. I hope you have enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below. If you leave a question, please be sure to include your email address so that I may respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim