Peralta Part 2 of 3: The Sunken Patios and the Double Temple Complex

My friend Vinnie, on a pyramid staircase. The staircase ascends the largest of the two pyramid-temples of the Double Temple Complex, which is part of the ruins of the ancient city of Peralta. The city is located in the region of Guanajuato known as El Bajio (The Lowlands). Vinnie and I traveled there in February of 2022 on a photographic expedition.

In this part of my Peralta series, I will first show several of the features located to the west of the Recinto de los Gobernantes (The Governors' Enclosure). We'll then move on to the Double Temple Complex. For those who might want to visit Peralta, see the directions in Part 1.

Overview:

Google satellite view of the Peralta ruins. North is toward the top of the photo. Two sunken patios stand to the west of the Recinto. Sunken Patio #2 is the square to the left of the Circular Structure visible in the photo above. Sunken Patio #1 is located to the south of #2, near the southwest corner of the Recinto.

The Double Temple Complex is about 30m (100yds) to the northwest of the Recinto. It is composed of two pyramid-temples that form two of the sides of another sunken patio. The pyramid on the east side of the patio is the largest. A smaller pyramid on the south side adjoins it at the south east corner of the sunken patio. Sunken patios and plazas are one of the characteristic features of the architecture found in El Bajio's ancient cities. (Photo from Google satellite view)

The Recinto's west wall and the Sunken Patios

The Recinto's west wall, viewed from its southwest corner. Sunken Patio #1 is to the left of the Nopal cactus. At this point the wall is about 3m (10ft) high and extends 137m (450ft) to the north. The Recinto de los Gobernantes is the largest structure of its kind found in any of the ancient cities of El Bajio. 

The Recinto and Sunken Patio stairs. A three-step staircase in the foreground leads down into Sunken Patio #2, from which this shot was taken. The main staircase originally rose to the top of the Recinto's west side and gave access to the Circular Structure, the Ceremonial Pool, and the elite residences (see Part 1). 

The restoration workers who rebuilt this staircase chose not to complete it to the top, possibly to discourage climbers. Presently, the only access to the interior of the Recinto is on the south side. The platform was built on sloping ground, so that the wall is higher in some sections than others. At this point it stands about 7m (20ft) tall. 

Sunken Patio #1 viewed from its northwest corner. The Recinto's west wall can be seen in the background. Sunken Patio #1 is approximately 1m (3.3ft) deep and is roughly 7m (20ft) on a side. The most important features of the Recinto are located on top of, or attached to, its west side wall. This includes the main staircase. The two Sunken Patios probably were probably used by the high priest and other elites for preliminary ceremonies prior to their ascent of the staircase. 

Sunken Patio #2 is larger and shallower than its counterpart. While it is at least 20m (60ft) on a side, it is only about 2/3m (2ft) deep. In this shot you can clearly see the relationship between the patio and the main staircase of the Recinto. The sole staircase leading into and out of Patio 2 is directly below the west wall's staircase.

Indigenous dancers. While this is a modern person, his attire would have been familiar to the performers who danced in Peralta's sunken plazas and patios 1400 years ago. Like him, they would have been festooned with bright feathers and armed with rattles made of seed pods filled with small stones. Some dancers, like one of those behind this man, would have worn ankle rattles made from similar seed pods. (Photo from the Tres Reyes Fiesta of Cajititlán, Jalisco). 

It is easy to imagine Peralta's ancient dancers twirling and stamping the ground, making a rhythmic sound with their rattles. Drums carved from hollow logs would have boomed, while the eerie, mournful tones of conch shell trumpets would have filled the air.  Bone flutes and wooden whistles would have added their shrill sounds. All these kinds of instruments have been unearthed in ancient burial sites all over Mexcio. 

The Double Temple Complex

The Double Temple Complex, looking south. The larger stepped-pyramid on the east (left) has six levels and may have originally had more. Its sole staircase is on its west side, leading down into the Sunken Patio below. The smaller pyramid on the south side has three stepped levels. A ruined structure on top may have once formed a fourth level. Its only staircase also ends in the patio, but is wider than that of the east side pyramid. (Aerial photo from Wikipedia).

The outside dimensions of the Double Temple Complex measure 85m (279ft) from east to west and 79m (259ft) from north to south. The top of the east side pyramid, which is the highest point in the complex, rises to 12m (39ft). Although the Double Temple Complex is smaller than the Recinto de los Gobernantes, it is every bit as intriguing. Its function appears to be entirely religious/ceremonial. No traces have been found of any dwellings within the complex.

The author, approaching the south side of the Double Temple Complex. At the point where the two pyramids adjoin, a staircase leads up to a small platform from which the sunken patio can be viewed. My previous experience at this site taught me that the best photos here would be achieved from a height, rather than from ground level. (Photo by Vinnie Heptig)

View of the stepped levels of the south side of the eastern pyramid. After carefully picking my way up, my effort was rewarded. Visible to the east are the beautifully reconstructed stepped-levels of the larger pyramid's south face. In ancient times, these walls would have been covered by brightly-painted plaster. 

The front of the smaller pyramid faces north, into the sunken patio. Turning left (west), I could see the smaller pyramid's first three levels, along with its staircase. This structure seemed more crudely constructed than its counterpart, indicating that it may have been built at an earlier time. While the south and east sides of the patio are bordered by the two pyramids, the west and north sides are enclosed by stone walls.

View to the north, along the west side of the larger pyramid. The perimeter wall on the north side of the sunken patio can be seen in the distance. This pyramid's only staircase can be seen about half way along the length of the wall. In order to explore the Double Temple Complex from here, I had to make a choice. 

I could descend another set of rough stairs below where I stood down into the patio. Alternatively, I could walk along the narrow ledge across the face of this pyramid to its stairs. The ledge was only about 0.25m (10in) wide, but it looked solid and reasonably safe, assuming I stepped carefully. Vinnie, who had come up from behind, watched my progress and decided the rough stairs to the patio looked safer. 

Descending the east pyramid's staircase. After traversing the ledge in the upper right, I began to descend. Although the lower part of the staircase was well-restored, the section I was climbing down in this photo was still pretty rough. Fortunately, I could use my hiking pole to balance myself and to test the stability of the rocks.

Vinnie was standing in the small platform I had just left when he took this shot of me. I wondered at the time if he was secretly hoping to capture a spectacular tumble. He congratulated me when I reached the bottom, but I thought I detected of trace of disappointment. (Photo by Vinnie Heptig)

View of the sunken patio and pyramids from the west wall. The Circular structure within the Recinto de los Gobernantes (see Part 1) was clearly built to worship Ehecatl, the Wind God. However, it is not clear which gods were being honored when these two pyramids were built. What is clear is that the Double Pyramid Complex is oriented to the Cardinal Directions.  

A high priest who ascended the west-facing pyramid would be facing east, toward the sacred direction of sunrise when he reached the top. In addition, the tops of both pyramids would have provided excellent views of dances and other ceremonies performed in the patio below. They would also have made good speaking platforms to address the people assembled below. (Photo by Vinnie Heptig)

Artist's conception of a ceremonial dance. The view here is from the southwest corner of the patio, near the place where I originally ascended. As mentioned before, the stepped levels of the pyramids and the walls of the sunken patio were once covered by plaster and painted with designs. (Photo from Peralta Museum display)

The staircase of the larger pyramid shows several phases of construction. The lower stairs are the most recent. Previous stages can be seen as you ascend, with the oldest section near the top. In ancient times, new structures were built over top of previous ones. New rulers often sought to make a statement about their power through architectural upgrades.

The architectural influence of Teotihuacán can be seen here. The talud y tablero (slope and tablet) style can be seen along the front of the pyramid. Peralta was settled approximately 300 AD, during the height of Teotihuacán's power (100-650 AD). This is one of many indications of the cultural and economic exchanges between that great empire and the cities of El Bajio. 

The south pyramid, viewed from the ledge on the east pyramid's face. From here, you can see three levels of the south pyramid and some rubble from a fourth. Also visible are more talud y tablero features on its second level. The rough staircase by which Vinnie descended to the patio can be seen on the left. The rubble on the top of the pyramid was probably once a temple.

Staircase of the south pyramid. Only the bottom two steps have been fully restored. Peralta and the other cities of El Bajio reached their apogee between 700-800 AD. This was during the Epi-Classic era, following the fall of Teotihuacán and early in the rise of the Toltec empire (700-1100 AD).

The north side of the Double Temple Complex. This side of the eastern pyramid shows five of its six remaining levels. The sunken patio of the Double Temple Complex and those found elsewhere in Peralta are among more than 200 examples of this feature that have been found throughout El Bajio. This has led some archeologists to dub the civilization that created these architectural features "the sunken patio culture".

Peralta was in decline by the late 10th century, due to deforestation and overpopulation. A study of tree rings shows that between 897 and 922 AD a great drought parched north and central Mexico, causing major famines and economic disruption. Even worse, it forced the fierce nomads of the northern deserts to migrate south and Peralta was in their path. By 900 AD, the city was deserted. Except for scattered bands of nomads, the region remained empty for the next 600 years.

This completes Part 2 of my three-part series on Peralta. In the next part, I will show you some of the fascinating artifacts left by the people who once lived here. I hope you enjoyed Part 2. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below, or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, please include your email address so that I may reply in a timely way.

Hasta luego, Jim