Jerez Part 3 of 7: The lush and beautiful Jardin Rafael Páez

La Primavera is one of the fountains in the Jardin. It was one of four bronze nymphs representing the four seasons that were originally installed in the plaza of another town. The scantily dressed nymphs scandalized that town's local priest and he demanded their removal. The story of how Jerez ended up with La Primavera will be recounted later in this posting. 

In the first two parts of my Jerez series, I focused on the wonderful architecture surrounding Jardin Rafael Páez. In this one I will show the Jardin (garden) itself and tell the story of Rafael Páez, who

ordered the Jardin's construction in 1887. Páez was a powerful political leader and man of great culture who served as Jerez' first Mayor.  Like many mayors of this period, Páez decided to modernize his town's main plaza by turning it into a lush garden. 

Previously, this space had been called Plaza de Armas (Parade Ground). It was used for drilling the militia, evangelizing large crowds of indigenous people, and for public executions. Later, it became Jerez' open-air central market, full of booths and crowded with people. No doubt, it also reeked with the smells of animals, uncollected waste, and unwashed peones.

Entering the Jardin

Looking out through one of the Jardin's several entrances. Purple bougainvillea arches over a gate that opens onto Andador Benito Juarez. This pedestrian-only street runs along the Jardin's east side. 

Rafael Páez' beautification project aroused considerable controversy because the Mayor proposed to move the central market to nearby Plaza Tacuba. However, the wealthy families who lived around that plaza strenuously objected to the transplantation into their midst of all those noisy, smelly booths, crowded with ragged commoners. 

Today, this reaction would be called NIMBY (Not In My Backyard). The dispute grew so heated that one day a man named Rafael Billanti shot the Mayor's horse in protest. It is unclear from my sources whether Páez was mounted on the unfortunate steed at the time. Despite this violent reaction, the Mayor was undeterred and the beautification project proceeded.

A bust of the poet Ramón López Velarde was erected in 1946. This statue, along with one of the composer Candelario Huizar, celebrates Jerez' contributions to Mexican culture. Ramón Velarde (1888-1921) has been described as "Mexico's National Poet". He was born in Jerez to a father who was a lawyer and a mother from a land-owning family. Velarde was educated in a seminary, but abandoned the religious life to become a lawyer. 

Law was a way to make a living, but Velarde's first love was poetry. He collaborated in the publication of a variety of literary magazines and wrote several books of poetry. Velarde  initially rejected modernist poetry, but later adopted it as his style. Much of his work focuses on idealized memories of his childhood in Jerez and the people of the town are very proud of their native son. Velarde died of pneumonia  at the relatively young age of 33.

The Jardin contains several topiary sculptures. Topiary is the art of shaping plants into fanciful forms through clipping and training their branches. It originated in Roman times when Gaius Matius Calvinus, a member of Julius Caesar's circle, introduced it to Roman gardens. The practice died out during the Dark Ages, but was revived in Europe in the 16th century. Topiary sculptures were placed in the Jardin at the end of the 19th century.

In the 1890's, Mexico's dictator Porfirio Diaz decided to prepare for the upcoming centennial of Independencia by sprucing up the nation's plazas with statues. An official from Zacatecas named Francisco Román requested statues for his state so that he could distribute them to various pueblos. Among those that Diaz sent were four bronze nymphs, representing the four seasons. Román gave them to the pueblo of Villavueva, including one called La Primavera (The Spring). 

In 1896, Don Pedro Cabrera was the political leader of Jerez. He persuaded the leadership of Villanueva to loan him La Primavera to help decorate Jerez' plaza for its annual spring festival. Once the festival concluded, however, Cabrera neglected to return the bronze nymph. In the end, this caused no problem because Villanueva's priest had forced the removal of the other three nymphs from his town's plaza. Apparently, Jerez' priest was a bit more broadminded, because the statue still stands in the Jardin. 

Remarkable design on the Jardin's tiled surface. I haven't been able to find any history or explanation of the floral design, but it has a Far Eastern feel to it. Unusual tile arrangements can be found in many Mexican plazas. 

During the Mexican Revolution (1910-17) and the struggles over land reform following it, the Jardin suffered considerable destruction and neglect. In 1922, the Ayuntamiento (city council) decided to restore the garden. In doing so, they officially named it Jardin Rafael Páez, honoring the man who initiated its creation. 

The Kiosco

A kiosco (bandstand) is another typical feature of Mexican plazas. Work on this octagon-shaped kiosco began in 1888, replacing an earlier version. According to historian Tony Burton*, the structure has "the half-moon of Islam, Star of David, and Roman bells decorating it, presumably symbolizing the union of civilizations." A Moorish influence can be seen in the arches supporting the roof. 

*Western Mexico, A Traveler's Treasury 4th Edition, 2013, by Tony Burton, Sombrero Books, BC Canada.

The wooden ceiling of the kiosco originated in nearby forests.  Suspended from the ceiling of the painstakingly-assembled structure is a lovely glass lamp. Mexican kioscos can be found in nearly every Mexican plaza where they almost always stand in the center. Kioscos function as bandstands, speaking platforms, stages for displays like Christmas creche scenes, and jungle gyms for kids. While some kioscos are quite simple, others--including this one--are quite elaborate.

The intricately carved details of the kiosco are lovely. This photo displays some of the kiosco's detail work and craftsmanship that is among the best I have seen in Mexico.

Fountains and gardens

Four fountains were placed in the Jardin in 1888. The occasion was to celebrate Mexican Independence Day. This fountain is located in the southwest corner of the Jardin. Eight raised beds surround the fountain like the petals of a flower. In fact, the whole Jardin, viewed from above, is arranged like an eight petaled rose. In 1900, cast iron benches were added and the kiosco was again remodeled.

During the last part of the 19th century, the chief caretaker of the Jardin was Don Julio Soto, a renowned gardener. Under his supervision, the garden was treated as a precious jewel. It was filled with 310 pots containing carnations, pansies, hollyhocks, and other plants. Scattered around the Jardin were fruit trees, which produced pomegranates, oranges, apples, apricots and pears.

Another fountain, located in the southeast corner of the Jardin.  This one was done in the Art Nouveau style, popular in Europe and the Americas between 1890 and 1910. This period is known as the Belle Époque. Art Nouveau was a reaction to the formality of the Neo-Classic style of the 18th and 19th centuries and is characterized by long, sinuous, organic lines. 

Golden herons form the base of the fountain. The sinuous lines of the herons' necks and wings are typical of Art Nouveau style. The use of the herons to support the fountain's dish is another aspect of Art Nouveau. Decorative and structural elements are melded in an attempt to break down the distinction between fine and applied arts.  

People in the Jardin

A local couple is serenaded by a pair of guitarists. Street musicians are one of my favorite parts of Mexican culture. Most play for tips, which I nearly always give. Jerez is famous for the tamborazo bands who play in its Jardin. This style of music originated in the state of Zacatecas during the last half of the 19th century. 

The cast iron benches seen above were originally installed in 1900. There are thirteen grouped around the kiosco and each of the four fountains is surrounded by seven more. They provide a great place to people-watch while you hang out under the Jardin's many shady trees. 

A young student scans her smart phone. These devices have become as ubiquitous in Mexico as they are north of the border. Other popular ways of whiling away your time include listening to musicians, playing dominos, studying, talking, and sometimes just snoozing. 

My friend Jerry adjusts his smart phone for a selfie. Taking photos in the Jardin is another popular activity. Jerry was part of the group I organized for this visit to Jerez. He and his wife Lori produce a popular youtube video called Jerry Brown Travels. In it they provide a great deal of information for foreigners who are interested in traveling or settling in Mexico.

The Jardin also provides a quiet place for young lovers to meet.  The young couple were naturally posed for this shot and when I asked permission they readily agreed. I have always found young people in Mexico to be delightful and this pair was no exception.

This concludes Part 3 of my Jerez series. I hope you enjoyed it. If you would like to leave any thoughts or questions, please use the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments, please include your email address so that I can respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim