A visit to Campeche's Zoo and Botanical Gardens

Margay cat (Leopardus wiedii). We found this small wild cat at Campeche's Zoo and Ecological Center. This beautiful animal is one of many that inhabit the Mexican State of Campeche and other parts of the Yucatan Peninsula. Most of these creatures live in deep forest or remote coastal areas and are wary of humans. Visiting this facility is a great way to see creatures you might not otherwise encounter. The Zoo and Ecological Center is open daily, except Monday. The hours are from 10am to 4pm.

The Margay is a solitary, nocturnal animal that is smaller, but otherwise similar in appearance, to the ocelot. Its habitat is forest land, either deciduous and evergreen. The cat's climbing ability allows it to hunt up in the trees rather than on the ground. The Margay's diet consists of birds and their eggs, lizards, monkeys, tree frogs, opossum, and fruit. The Margay's extra large eyes also assist in its hunting. Females usually produce only a single cub in a mating cycle and cubs suffer a 50% mortality rate, keeping normal population numbers small. However, illegal hunting and deforestation have reduced the already small population and caused Margays to be listed as a threatened species.

Northern crested caracara (Caracara cheriway). The caracara's wing span averages 125cm (49in) and its weight ranges from 0.45-0.9kg (1-2 lbs). It is not a fast flyer like its cousins the falcons. Consequently, this large bird is often a scavenger rather than a hunter. It has been observed walking or even running along the ground. The caracara has a very wide range. It has been spotted from the northern Amazonian Basin all the way up to New Brunswick, Canada. Normal habitat for the caracara is open agricultural land, but it can also be found in coastal woodlands and mangrove swamps.

Its diet is primarily carrion and slow-moving or immobile live prey. These, include small mammals, amphibians, reptiles, fish, crabs, insects, and occasionally fruit. Some Mexican ornithologists believe that the caracara is the "eagle" depicted in sacred, pre-hispanic, Aztec codices. If true, the bird appearing on the Mexican national flag, sitting on a nopal cactus eating a snake, may well be a caracara.

Coatimundi (Nasua narica). Like their raccoon cousins, these little guys are active, clever, and dexterous. Although we found them in an enclosed area in the Zoo, the coatis had long since figured out how escape. A few moments after we appeared at their cage, coatis were suddenly in front of us on the sidewalk. They stood on their hind legs and extended their front paws in an obvious appeal for treats. We had nothing for them and, in any case, the Zoo discourages feeding them. After a bit, they departed with disgusted expressions. In their view, we were just another couple of stingy tourists.

Like the caracara, coatimundis have a wide range. They can be found everywhere from South America to the southwestern US. These little creatures have sharp teeth and it is therefore risky to keep them as pets. Their long prehensile tails are used for balance and signaling. Coatis often live in troops and extend their tails straight up to keep track of each other in brushy areas. Their diet consists of lizards, rodents, small birds and bird eggs, crocodile eggs, and invertebrates such as tarantulas.

American crocodile (Crocodylus acutus). There were a number of crocs at the Zoo, but I had trouble photographing them because their cages got in the way (probably a good thing, come to think of it). I finally found this one comfortably sunning itself in a more open area. The croc ignored me completely, not moving a muscle while I took photos from several angles.

American crocodiles are the most widespread of the four croc species in the Americas. Their range extends from Florida to the coasts of Mexico and all the way down to Peru and Venezuela. Although they prefer the salinity of coastal waters, they can also be found in fresh-water river systems. Preferred habitats include lagoons, brackish lakes, and coastal mangrove swamps.

This species of croc can grow as big as 6.1m (20 feet) and 907kg (2000 lbs). The croc's nostrils, eyes, and ears are all on the top of its head. This allows the rest of the body to remain under water when stalking prey. They can attack rapidly, both on land (16km/h or 10mph) and in the water (32 km/h or 20mph). Not the sort of creature you'd want to encounter while wading through a mangrove swamp.

Yucatecan white-tailed deer (Odolcoileus virginianus yucatenensis). The Zoo keeps a number of white-tailed deer in large open enclosures. The little faun above was nudging its mom, trying to get some milk. Mom was a little nervous about my presence. She kept moving around, while keeping her large dark eyes focused on me. The deer is named for its tail, which is white underneath. When threatened, it will flash the white as an alarm to other deer in the area. Although she was wary, her tail was down. I guess she didn't view me as an acute threat.

White-tailed deer have adapted to an astonishing variety of habitats, making them the most widely distributed ungulate in the Americas. Their populations have grown so large in some areas that they damage the forests in which they live. They also cause a substantial number auto accidents that are not only fatal to the deer but occasionally to humans as well. I can attest to that, having slammed into a large buck one night in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia. Although the deer was killed, I was unhurt. The amount of damage to the car amazed me.

Northern black bellied whistling duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis). The duck gets its name from its noisy whistling call. My telephoto lens makes it appear that I am almost cheek-by-jowl with the duck. It was a very cooperative subject, remaining perfectly still.

The northern black-bellied whistling duck ranges from the southern US to western Panama. Large flocks gather in quiet shallow lakes, ponds and marshes. Like swans and geese, breeding pairs stay together for many years at a time. A pair will share all the tasks of raising their young, which grow up quickly. The ducklings leap from their nests within two days of hatching and can feed themselves immediately. Whistling ducks are not migratory, although flocks may move about locally. They generally feed at night on plant material, but also eat insects, spiders, crustaceans, and various aquatic invertebrates.

Yucatecan raccoon (Procyon lotor hernandezii). This guy was dead to the world. He probably had a hard night out, binging on the contents of local garbage bins. The species is also called Mexican plateau raccoon, or just common raccoon. Like their coati cousins, raccoons are dexterous and ingenious at escaping enclosures. They are also notorious burglars, complete with black eye-masks.

The common raccoon's range is from southern Canada to Central America. Life expectancy can be up to 16 years. They feed omnivorously on small mammals, rodents, birds and their eggs, insects, berries, and fruit. Raccoons love to scavenge in garbage containers and will even break into a house and ransack the cupboards. They are quite fastidious and are known for brushing dirt off their food and even washing it before eating.

Peccary (Pecari tajacu). Peccaries are in the family Tayasuidae, which means New World pig. However, zoologists now think they don't belong in the pig family at all. Although they share some similarities in appearance to the Old World pigs introduced during the Spanish Conquest, their hooves and the structure of their stomachs are different. The ancient Maya kept them as pets, as well as for food.

Peccaries are also called javelina, due to their sharp tusks. However, they are usually not aggressive toward people unless they feel threatened. These animals are quite social and sometimes travel in herds of more than 100. They are omnivorous, with a diet that includes roots, grasses, seeds, and cacti, but also insects, grubs and the occasion small animal.

Black spiny-tailed iguana (Ctenosaura similis). Although ferocious in appearance, these are very gentle animals and are often kept as pets. Like the American crocodile and the whistling duck, this iguana remained perfectly still while I took my photographs.

Black spiny-tailed iguanas get their names from the black stripes on their bodies and the spines that grow in a ridge along their tails. They are the largest and fastest-running species in the genus Ctenosaura. Iguanas are also excellent climbers. This species prefers a rocky habitat with crevices in which to hide from predators. While they are not aggressive, they will lash out with their tails or even bite when cornered. While juveniles tend to eat insects, adults become herbivores as they age. They can be found throughout southern Mexico, the Yucatan Peninsula and down through Central America to the coast of Colombia.

Mexican dog (Doggus houndus). Just kidding on the scientific name! This pooch epitomizes the expression "laid back." As to his breed, my father would have called him "100% Mexican dog". He apparently belongs to one of the staff and has free run of the Zoo. We were the only visitors that morning, so he tagged along with us. In addition to the ones I have displayed, there are many more creatures here. The Zoo and Ecological Center really deserves a visit if you want to take a look at Campeche's wild animals.


Jardin Botanico X'much Haltún

The botanical garden is housed in Baluarte de Santiago. It stands across the street from Hotel Plaza Campeche, where we stayed during out visit. The baluarte (bastion or fort) is one of eight that surround Old Campeche, connected by high walls. Two guard posts perch high on the corners. The man leaning against the baluarte's corner provides some scale to show the height of the walls.  You can visit the baluarte and its botanical garden daily, except for Sunday, from 8am-2pm and 5pm-8pm. On Sunday, the hours are 8am-2pm.

Completed in 1704, Baluarte Santiago was the last of the eight bastions built to protect against pirate attacks. However, this is not the original baluarte, which was demolished at the beginning of the 20th century. Pirate attacks had long since ceased and, in any case, the old stone walls were no defense against modern naval guns. This replica was built in the 1950s.

The garden's name, X'much-Haltún, means "water that flows from the earth". Once you walk through the main entrance and leave the bustling city behind, you enter a different world. The high thick walls shield you from traffic noise. While the conditions outside may be hot and sticky, here it is moist, cool, and shady. The thick jungle surrounding you contains more than 98 different species of Campeche's medicinal, edible, and ornamental plants.

Bamboo clump. Mexico has 8 genera and 37 species of bamboo. Of these, the genus Olmeca and its 14 species are endemic (grow only in Mexico). There was no informational sign, so I am not clear which species this is. However it is almost certainly of the genus Olmeca, since the garden is devoted primarily to native species. Bamboo belongs to the grass family. The plant's name comes to us from the Dutch or Portuguese explorers of the East Indies, who translated it from Malay.

This plant grows incredibly fast, as much as 910mm (36in) in 24 hours. However, growth speed is related to soil and climate conditions. Anyone who has mistakenly planted bamboo as an ornamental knows that it requires a constant struggle to avoid being overwhelmed. Since ancient times, bamboo has been used for building materials, tools, furniture, fences, scaffolding, cooking utensils, even weapons. Pre-hispanic Maya codices show them using bamboo in some of these ways.

Chit palm (Thrinax radiata). Its common name is thatch palm, because of widespread use to thatch roofs. Chit is a Maya word, sometimes spelled Chi'it. This palm can grow up to 6m (20ft) in height and its range extends from southern Florida, through the Caribbean, to the coasts of Yucatan and Belize. It prefers the narrow strip of land between sandy beaches and inland Mangrove swamps. Unfortunately, this is exactly where developers like to build beach properties, so the Chit palm has become endangered in some highly developed areas. Fortunately, the Caribbean coast of Campeche is largely undeveloped. In addition to thatching roofs, the Chit's palm fronds are used as brooms.

Coconut palm (Cocos nucifera). Stately coconut palms require sandy soil and high humidity. They not only grow wild, but are cultivated in great groves in coastal areas where the palms can reach up to 30m (98ft). Scientists believe that the coconut palms of the Caribbean and East Coast of Mexico originated in West Africa. They were brought to the Americas by the Spanish and Portuguese during the early colonial period.

Coconut palms have been used for a variety of purposes since very ancient times. The coconut fruit has an edible interior and contains a nutritious "milk". Coconut oil is used in cooking, particularly frying. The husk of the fruit can be used as a bowl, cup, or a digging tool, and can be burned as a fuel as well. The leaves of the palm can be thatched for roofs, woven into baskets, or used as brooms. The trunks make excellent building materials.

Flor de Mayo (Plumeria rubra). In Mexico, its common name is cacaloxóchitl, a Nahuatl word meaning "crows flower". The frangrancy of the plant persuaded a 16th century Italian noble to use the Flor de Mayo to make perfume. His family name was Frangipani, which became yet another name for the plant.

The range of the Flor de Mayo runs from central Mexico through Central America and down to Colombia and Venezuela. Since it was discovered by Europeans in the 16th century, it has been introduced to other areas, including Africa and Asia. The plant likes hot rocky areas and a climate that ranges from dry to moderate rainfall. It is used for decorative gardens but also for Hawaiian leis and for medicinal purposes.

Croton (Codiaeum variegatum). While its colors make it attractive, crotons need to be handled with care. The sap can cause skin eczema and the bark, roots, latex and leaves are all poisonous. The seeds can be fatal to children who ingest them. The plant was introduced to the Americas from Asia, where it is native to Indonesia, Australia, Malayasia, and the western Pacific islands. When growing in the wild, it favors open forests and scrubland.

Strangler fig (genus Ficus, species?). Strangler figs wrap themselves around another tree, hence the name. However, this process apparently does not harm the host tree and can even help it withstand strong winds. The "strangling" process begins when wind-blown ficus seeds are deposited in the crevices of a host's trunk. The strangler grows down to reach the soil and up to reach the sunlight. These trees are particularly prevalent in dark forests when sunlight is scarce. After the host tree dies and rots away, the strangler often remains as a hollow structure.

Jungle flame (Ixorra coccinea). The Jungle flame, also known as Flame of the Woods, is another native of southern Asia, specifically India, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka. It likes hot weather and moist, organically rich, and well-drained soil. The flowers, leaves, roots, and stem can be used medicinally and the fruit is edible when ripe. However, its main use is in decorative gardens.

Screw pine (Pandanus utilis). The screw pine has been described as "amazingly bizarre" and I'd have to agree. When I came upon this plant, I first thought the teepee of rods were some sort of support system put up by the gardeners. Then it dawned upon me that these were the roots of a plant! The screw pine is not a pine, despite the name, and not a palm, although its foliage vaguely resembles that of a palm.

These tropical trees need lots of space and a warm climate. They are tolerant to both droughts and salt, due to their adaptation to coastal areas. They get their "pine" appellation from their edible pineapple-like fruit. Be careful around them because the edges of their leaves have little spines that can painfully stick the unwary person.

A wall-top guard post is a reminder of the purpose of the original baluarte. The little structure is hardly larger than an old-fashioned phone booth. It has three gun slits, one looking out and one on either side looking down the length of the walls. As with the animals of the Zoo and Ecology Center, the X'much Haltun Botanical Garden has many more plants than I show here. If you like plants, I encourage you to stop by and enjoy this place.

This completes my posting on the fauna and flora of Campeche. I hope you enjoyed it and, if so, that you will leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below. If you leave a question, PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim