The hike to Rio Negro's steaming hot waterfall

Billows of steam rise from Rio Negro's remarkable hot waterfall. The scalding hot water comes from springs further up the arroyo. Three of my friends and I visited the falls during a hike into the Bosque de la Primavera (Forest of the Spring). It is the huge public/private park located just west of Guadalajara. The many hot springs in the Bosque are the result of a long history of volcanism.

Map showing Bosque de la Primavera in relation to Guadalajara. The growth of Guadalajara has always been limited by deep canyons to the north and east and the high, mountainous plateau of the Bosque de la Primavera on the west. In the map above, the Bosque is the dark green area to the left of the city, covering an area almost as large as Guadalajara itself. We entered Bosque de la Primavera through La Venta de Astillero, at the northern border of the park. The mountains within the forest are the darkest green and are surrounded by rolling plateaus covered with forests of pine and oak. There is little underbrush on the plateaus, so the forests have an open feel that I find very refreshing. Numerous canyons and arroyos cut through the Bosque's soft volcanic earth. Some of them are formed by water flowing from hot springs. Chief among these is Rio Caliente (Hot River), which is located in the north central part of the park and flows roughly from east to west. Rio Negro is one of Rio Caliente's feeder streams.

My hiking companions, taking a breather. Steve (left) is a "sunbird" from Florida, who comes to Lake Chapala during the summer to escape the brutal heat and humidity of his state. Jim B (center) is a Texan and, like me, a full-timer in Mexico. Richard (right) is another sunbird the fleeing heat, and is also from Texas.

Rio Caliente

Rio Caliente is quite shallow in most places, even during the rainy season. I have hiked along this river numerous times, as well as in other areas of the park. There are trails on both sides of the river, as well as a dirt road that parallels it a short distance away. While there is very little elevation gain, the trails are quite rocky and require you to cross and re-cross the river several times. Good footgear, preferably with lug soles and ankle support, is essential.

Steam rises from the river. It is particularly visible during cooler weather. Rio Caliente, despite the name, is warm rather than hot. The really hot water comes from the feeder streams. In various scenic spots along Rio Caliente, natural pools draw folks looking for a soothing soak. In other places, nature has received a little human help in the form of small, rustic dams.

Nopal cactus, festooned with small, round tunas. Both the flat nopal paddles (leaves) and the tunas (fruit), are highly edible. Nopal, also called the Prickly Pear cactus, grows in many areas of Mexico and has been a staple of the Mexican diet for thousands of years. It is highly nutritious and contains anti-oxidants, vitamins, minerals, and fibre. Ripe tunas are sweetly delicious. However--as with the paddles--care must be taken to shave off the tiny spines on the cactus' skin. The flat nopal paddles can be roasted, boiled, sauteed, or--my preference--sliced in thin strips and eaten raw. They are tart, crunchy, and quite tasty when served this way in a salad or as an hors d'oeuvre.

The river passes over a series of small, scenic waterfalls. After a long hike, it is a real treat to sit in a shallow pool like this, with the warm water rushing over your shoulders. We came upon this one early in our hike, however, and did not pause to sample its pleasures.

Jim B leads the way on one of the many river crossings. Another essential item, particularly on this route, is one or more hiking poles. They help you keep your balance so you avoid unintentional tumbles into the water. The poles can also be used to test the water's depth and probe rocks to check their stability. Hikers in my area carry poles that range from inexpensive to costly. The store-bought version can run from $15-$60 USD (or more). I prefer the former, which can easily be made from old broom handles tipped with rubber footings. The handles I get for free from the trash and the footings can be obtained from most ferreterías (hardware stores) for the peso equivalent of 35 cents USD. Each to his own.


Rio Negro

Rio Negro flows up from the south to join Rio Caliente. Rio Negro gets its name from the black appearance of the water, a consequence of the dark algae that grows at the bottom. This river is genuinely hot. A warning sign in the area lists the temperature as 80 degrees Celsius (176 Fahrenheit). As you ascend the river, and get closer to the springs, the water temperature increases.

Further upstream, I gingerly make my way across the river. Richard's photo caught me in mid-stride. A spot like this is where hiking poles are of critical importance. Falling in at this point could cause significant burns and we were not close to any medical help. In the photo above, my feet are on the last two large rocks in the water. I was a little nervous about how wobbly they were. Above me, Jim B keeps a close eye on my progress. My broomstick pole is several inches longer than the store-bought models and the reach it gives me is an advantage in situations like this. Thankfully, everyone made it across without incident.

Jim B pushes his way through dense forest toward a huge plume of steam. We have reached the hot waterfall! The Rio Negro arroyo gradually narrows and, at this point, the canyon walls are only about 15m (45 ft) apart. Just a short distance ahead, they close in even further. In the Bosque, only the deep, well-watered arroyos contain the sort of jungle typical of Lake Chapala's mountains.

Rio Negro's hot falls rush through a narrow rock slot. Above, Jim B relaxes while Steve tries to get a decent photo. However, the steam billowing around us made photography challenging. Unfortunately, Steve's camera malfunctioned and he came away with no pictures of the adventure. Notice how dramatically the rays of sunlight cut down through the steam. If you are patient and position yourself correctly (and your camera doesn't crap out), the hot falls can yield some very nice photos.

Bromeliads coated the branches of trees overhanging the falls. Bromeliads (Bromeliacea) are common in this part of Mexico. The species shown above are epiphytes, which are non-parasitic organisms that grow on other organisms but draw their nourishment from the air, rainwater, or from debris that collects around them. Bromeliads are able to thrive in amazingly diverse environments. These range from sea level to 4200 meters (13,780 ft) and from cloud forests to deserts.


The Return Hike

Steve explores the mouth of Rio Negro, where it meets Rio Caliente. The larger river flows in at the center-right of the photo. Its greenish-brown color contrasts with the black hue of Rio Negro, seen in the foreground.

Algae at the bottom of Rio Negro. The algae in the shallows is not black, but sort of a greenish yellow. This photo reminded me a bit of a Jackson Pollack painting.

Steve takes in the view, while I study a possible river crossing. Here, you can get a sense of the rocky nature of the river trail. It had been a gorgeous day, warm but not too hot, with gentle breezes.

The camping and picnic areas of the Bosque are popular with the locals. However, for some reason, we rarely encounter Mexicans further into the Bosque's wilderness, other than farmers or cowboys.This mob of kids was accompanied by several adults. Since most of the kids were wearing identical t-shirts, it was probably an outing by a school or other kind of organization. Kids being kids, some were full of antics while others looked on shyly. The adults encouraged everyone to gather in for our photos. The scene above captures the typical warm friendliness of the Mexican people. I am always amazed at how wonderfully Americans are treated here, despite the awful way that Mexicans are treated by the US government and--in all too many cases--by people in the US.

After the hike, my faithful Toyota RAV4 ferried us to lunch in the nearby town of Tala. Years ago, after a similar hike, we asked someone at Tala's plaza where to find a good restaurant. They directed us to La Huerta de Vega (The Orchard of the Vega Family). Behind the wall is a large open-air space, shaded by an arbor of vines. Metal tables and plastic chairs stand on a dirt floor. The atmosphere is very rustic, but the food is good, plentiful, and remarkably inexpensive. There was even a musician who played guitar and sang for tips.

Kickin' back and swappin' lies. Sometimes this seems like the best part of a hike. We were pleasantly tired but full of memories of a spectacular day. Tales (some of them even true!) of our previous hikes and other adventures in Mexico were shared around the table. Life is good!

This completes my posting on the hot waterfall of Rio Negro. I hope you have enjoyed coming along on the trek. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or reply directly by email. If you leave a question, PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim