Cobá Part 3: Ball Court 1 at Grupo Cobá

Using his hip, a Maya ball player propels a hard rubber ball toward a stone ring. He wears a loincloth and a leather protector called a yoke around his mid-section. The leather yoke is necessary to protect him from the heavy rubber ball. Serious injury or even death could result if it struck the player in his stomach area. He also wears a leather helmet, for the same reason. The hips, upper legs, shoulders, and elbows were the primary parts of the body used in play, because the use of hands or feet was forbidden by the rules.

Cobá has two courts. Grupo Cobá, also called Group B, contains Ball Court 1. The court is located just north of the Acropolis, which is the first group of structures you encounter after entering the Cobá Archeological Zone. (See Part 1 for directions to Cobá). In this posting, I'll show you the two parallel structures which form Ball Court 1. I'll also show the two stelae (upright stone monuments) adjacent to it. Along with the photos, I'll tell you about the ball game itself and its relationship with the Maya view of the Cosmos.

Overview

Ball Court 1 is formed by two parallel structures labeled 17a and 17b. They are located a short distance north of Patio A and La Iglesia pyramid (see Part 2). A narrow alley runs between the ball court's parallel structures, forming the ground-level part of the playing area. Also part of the area of play are the sloping interior walls of 17a and 17b. Mounted high on the middle of each wall is a stone ring, similar to the one in the photo of the ball player. On the west side of Structure 17b, Stelae 9 and 10 stand side-by-side within a "U" shaped enclosure.

Elite spectators would stand on the top of the parallel structures to view the game as it was played below. They ascended to those positions by way of several staircases. The ones on the north and east sides of 17a  are impressive, while the ones on 17b are less so. In fact, 17a is the more complex structure in several ways. This leads me to believe that 17a was intended for use by the "home team" and its spectators, while 17b was for the visiting team.

The human figures on the two stone panels found at Ball Court #1 may be ball players. These panels are not Stelae 9 and 10, which will be shown at the end of this post. The panels above are quite weather-worn, so the figures and hieroglyphs carved into the limestone are difficult to discern. Some sources suggest that these figures may be prisoners captured during warfare. However, I doubt this. War captives are nearly always portrayed as small figures with bound hands, and in kneeling or subservient positions. The tall figures on these two panels stand erect, suggesting that they were people of importance deserving respect.

Grupo Cobá's Ball Court #1

Looking north along the playing field. The ball court's narrow alleyway and sloping walls form the playing area. Structure 17a is on the left and 17b is to the right. The walls don't extend all the way to the ground, but stop at narrow shelves. Then, there is  a short vertical drop to the ground. Mid-way down the field, at the top of the walls, you can see stone rings on either side of the court. The length of Ball Court #1 is 70m (230ft) and the alley's width is approximately 3m (10ft). The sloping walls are about 6m (20t) high, not including the structures on top. 

Ball Courts in Mesoamerica were built in a variety of sizes and designs. The smallest I have encountered is at the Zapotec city of Monte Alban, in Oaxaca. It is only about 15m (50ft) long, with an alley 2m (6.6ft) wide, with sloping walls that are around 1.5m (5ft) tall. The largest is at Chichen Itza, in north-central Yucatan. That huge court is 146.3m (480ft) long. Its alley is 36.6m (120ft) wide, with vertical walls that rise to 8m (26ft). Most cities in ancient Mesoamerica had ball courts. Some, like Cobá, had two or more. The city of Cantona, located in the state of Puebla, has the most. It contains twenty-seven courts! 

Stone ring on the west side (17b) of the court. The ball game is quite ancient. The earliest known courts date back to the Pre-Classic period. The oldest court yet discovered dates to at least 1400 BC and the oldest rubber ball to 1600 BC. The game may have been created by the Olmecs, known as the "Mother of Cultures". Whether or not they originated the ball game, it likely spread throughout Mesoamerica by way of their trade networks. However, the use of stone rings in ball courts was a much later innovation. They began to appear after 900 AD in the Post-Classic era.

Ball court rings come in various styles and sizes. The one above has a fairly large hole, about the size of a small beach ball. I have seen other rings that would only accommodate a ball about the size of one used today in soccer. While this ring is undecorated around its rim, others I have seen contain elablorate carvings of animals or abstract designs. 

Passing the ball through a ring was difficult and therefore probably rare. Doing so may have signaled an automatic win. The usual way of winning was to score points by moving the ball to the opponent's end zone or preventing him from returning the ball. Penalties were incurred by touching the ball with the hands or feet or letting it bounce more than once on the floor of the alley. 

Structure 17b, the Ball Court's west side

The north end of Structure 17b. A five-step staircase on the north end of 17b leads up to a platform, but not to the top of the structure. The purpose of this short staircase is not clear. It is possible that another flight of stairs once provided access from the platform to the top. However, due to the deteriorated condition of this end of 17b, it is not possible to say. However, the south end of 17b does have a narrow staircase that leads from the ground level up to the top. In the distance, beyond the five-step staircase, you can see part of the sloping wall of Structure 17a.

The south end of 17b, with its narrow staircase. On the right, the east wall of the playing area (17a) and its stone ring can be seen. On the left (west) side of 17b, you can see the thatched roof of the palapa which shelters Stelae 9 and 10. Although the playing field areas of the two parallel structures are identical, the overall size of 17b is slightly smaller and the spectator area on its top is less elaborate than the one on 17a. The reason for this is not clear. Perhaps 17b was intended for the use of the visiting team and its elite spectators, while the larger and more elaborate 17a was constructed for the home team. 

Structure 17a, the Ball Court's east side

View of the southeast corner of 17a. Carole is on the left, inspecting the south side of the structure. The sloping wall of 17b can been seen in the distance beyond her. The ledge above Carole contains several rectangular columns which once supported a roof. The purpose of this room is unknown, but it may have been used by players to store their clothes and possessions during the game. On the right (east side), a broad staircase can be seen. It leads up to 17a's colonnaded top. The three steps in the foreground lead down into Patio F.  (See site map above)

The east-side staircase of 17a. As I noted previously, these stairs allowed Cobá's elite to ascend to a position where they could view the game as it was played below. The rectangular columns lining the top level once supported a roof to shelter spectators from the sun or rain. While these stairs allowed access to the top, they also face into Plaza F, so they could have functioned at other times as stadium seats for viewing important ceremonies conducted in the plaza. This staircase has thirteen steps, an important number in the Maya world.

Most pre-hispanic people, including the Maya, believed that there were thirteen levels in heaven and nine levels in the underworld (Xibalba). In between these top and bottom dimensions was the earth, seen as a caiman or turtle floating in a primordial sea. Each of the levels of the upper and lower worlds was ruled by a particular god. The deity who lived at the thirteenth (top) level was Itzamna, the supreme creator god. 

Structure 17a's northeast corner. On the left (east) side is the broad staircase. The corner of 17a contains a small, colonnaded room with three pillars, accessed by a four-step staircase. This may have been used by an officiating priest. On the right is the mouth of a tunnel that runs beneath the staircase that is located on the north side of 17a.

In addition to the connection between 17a's east-side stairs and the levels of heaven, the ball game reflected other aspects of the Maya Cosmos. In 1550, a book called the Popul Vuh ("Community Book") was written by a Spanish priest. He based it on Maya oral traditions. There have long been doubts about its accuracy in recounting the centuries-old myths. However, in the late 20th century, excavations at the Pre-Classic city of El Mirador proved that the Popul Vuh faithfully represents those myths. One of the most important was about the Hero Twins and their famous ball game with the Lords of the Underworld.

The staircase on the north end of 17a reaches the top of the structure. This staircase is an example of how 17a is the more impressive half of the ball court. Along with the one on the east side, these stairs provided ways for large processions of Cobá's elite to mount the eastern half of the structure.  By contrast, 17b has one narrow set of stairs to the top on its south end. The staircase on its north end is much smaller than either of those on 17a. It also doesn't appear to reach the top level. 

In the Popul Vuh's story about the Hero Twins, their father was the Maiz (corn) God, known as Hun Hunahpu. He and his brother were great ball players and were summoned by the Lords of the Underworld to play a game. Hun Hunahpu and his brother were defeated and sacrificed by the Lords. Later, the twin sons of the Maiz God also became ball players. Like their father and uncle, the Hero Twins were summoned to play against the Underworld Lords. Using their ball game expertise, along with trickery, the twins defeated and sacrificed the Lords. They then resurrected the Maiz God, who became humanity's benefactor. 

The western end of the tunnel that runs completely under the north staircase of 17a. Tunnels like this served several purposes. Structurally, the corbel-vaulted tunnel provided support for the masonry above. In addition, the spaces could be used for elite gatherings, religious rituals, or storage. Finally, passageways such as this often symbolized transitions, such as the passage from death, through the underworld, to rebirth. 

The geographical orientation of Cobá's ball court also suggests a relationship with the Cosmos. The Maya believed that the Four Cardinal Directions (north, south, east, and west) were sacred and represented the structure of the Cosmos. The most important direction was east, where the life-giving sun rose. It set in the west, which represented death and the underworld. The sun's zenith was in the heavens at mid-day, which represented north. Its nadir was midnight, represented by south (the underworld). At Cobá, the ball court's axis is a little east of north, suggesting both the sun's rise and its zenith.

Stelae 9 and 10

Stelae 9 & 10 stand side-by-side on west side of the 17b. Stela 9 is on the left. Only about half of the original stela remains. It was discovered in 1893 by Austrian archeologist Teobert Maler. On its right is Stela 10. The lower half of 10 was discovered by Maler at the same time that he found Stela 9. The upper half of Stela 10 was't found until more than a century later. The west side of Structure 17b can be seen in the background.

Drawing of Stela 9. The stela is very worn and the upper part is still missing. Only the outlines of the hieroglyphs can be seen, along with the image of a man from his waist down to his sandaled feet. The cylindrical object that he holds across his chest indicates that he was a ruler. This symbol of high office is carried in the identical manner by rulers who appear on stelae throughout Cobá. 

Suspended down from his neck, almost to his ankles, is a horizontal bar with three tubular beads coming out of its right end. There were once beads on the left end, but they are too worn to be seen. Rulers wore bars like this when they dressed for war and intended to take captives. An almost identical bar, in good condition, can be seen on the lower portion of Stela 11 in Part 2 of this series. It is not clear why there are no bound captives at the feet of this figure, unlike those on Stela 11 and on other images of rulers at Cobá.  (Photo from Peabody Museum, Harvard University)

Drawing of Stela 10's top and bottom pieces. The lower part of the stela was found by Teobert Maler in 1893, standing next to Stela 9. More than a century later, in 1996, the upper section was discovered, buried in nearby rubble. The figure on the stela is a young man in good physical condition.

Drooping down from the back of his head is a kind of a pigtail, similar to the one on the ball player in the first photo. Also like that player, he is naked from the waist up and wears no sandals on his bare feet. Around his waist is the outline of what may be a protective yoke. All these factors strongly suggest that he is a ball player. (Photo from Peabody Museum, Harvard University)

This completes Part 3 of my Cobá series. I hope you have enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below, or email me directly. If you leave a question, please remember to include your email address so that I can respond in a timely fashion.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

Cobá Part 2: Stela 11 and the temples and palaces on Grupo Cobá's Acropolis

Sela 11 stands directly in front of the staircase of the pyramid called La Iglesia. The existence of this stela was first reported in 1891 by Austrian archeologist Teobert Maler. Modern archeologists believe that Stela 11 was once located elsewhere in Cobá and then moved here during the Post-Classic period (1000 AD-1250 AD). What you see above is only the top section of the stela and its circular altar. Recent excavations behind it unearthed the much better preserved bottom part. Its markings were preserved because it was buried for centuries.  During the same dig, archeologists also found a trove of jade and shell offerings. 

In this posting, I will first focus on Stela 11, its circular altar, and the offerings discovered near it. Then I will show the south and west sides of Patio F, one of several patios on Grupo Cobá's Acropolis. Finally, I will walk you along the structures on the west side of the Acropolis. These were the only accessible parts of the 43 structures on the Acropolis' platform when we visited. Hopefully, more have been opened to the public. Along with my photos and structural descriptions, I will also provide an overview of Cobá's long history.

Overview

Map of the Acropolis, the structures on its platform, and Ball Court #1. North is toward the top of the drawing. The star in the middle of the drawing shows the location of Stela 11. Surrounding the stela is Patio A, which is bounded on its north and south sides by Structures B-2 and B-3. To the east of Patio A is the grand staircase that leads to the top of La Iglesia (see Part 1). 

Along the west side of the Acropolis is the long, low Kaan staircase. To the west of the Kaan staircase is a broad plaza bounded on its north and south sides by two un-excavated structures called B-13 (north) and B-7 (south).  Just in front of the southern end of the Kaan staircase  is Stela 12. South of the stela, another broad staircase leads up to a palace called B-4. The southwest corner of the Acropolis contains B-5, a small colonnaded structure. This may have been either a temple or an elite dwelling. 

North of the Acropolis are Structures 17a and 17b, the parallel sides of Ball Court #1. Patio F is the open space bordered on its south side by the north wall of the Acropolis. The west side of the patio is bordered by the staircase of Structure 17a. The north and east sides of Patio F are formed by un-excavated Structures 18 and 20. (Site map from Pari Journal) 

Stela 11 and its treasures

Patio A, viewed from the lower steps of La Iglesia. From this position you can see the rear side of Stela 11, along with Structure B-3 (upper left). Although Patio A is small, compared to some others on the Acropolis, its position directly in front of La Iglesia suggests that this was a very sacred area. Reinforcing this are the ancient offerings found near the stela. Notice the two arms of the niche protruding from the bottom of La Iglesia's stairs. Buried between them, archeologists found the broken-off lower part of Stela 11. (Photo from Pari Journal) 

When the circular altar in front of Stela 11 was inspected by archeologists in 1926, they found offerings from recent times. These included burned candles and a metal incense-burning receptacle. Local Maya told them that hunters sometimes left offerings to invoke help from the ancient deities of the forests, lakes and cenotes. The hunters believed that these gods were more powerful than the Catholic god. One of the deities was Ix Chebel Yax, who was the goddess of regeneration and the wife of Itzamna, the supreme god of creation. Ix Chebel  Yax was closely associated with Piramide La Iglesia. 

On the other hand, local Catholics believed that the Virgin Mary (whom they called Colebíl) was the figure portrayed on Stela 11. Colebíl was the Maya moon goddess and, not coincidentally, the Virgin of Guadalupe is always portrayed standing on a crescent moon. Lacking any other meeting place, the Catholic faithful used Patio A and its altar to make offerings to her. This is how the pyramid came to be called La Iglesia (The Church). In 2011, Mexican peso coins were found on the circular altar, including one dated 1990. This indicates that the altar and stela were still being used for these purposes at that date. 

Drawing of the upper part of Stela 11. This section of the stela was exposed to the elements for many centuries and is consequently quite worn. However, 18 glyphs can still be seen, along with the head, chest, and mid-section of a richly-dressed royal figure. He wears a double-stranded jade necklace, a feathered head dress, and a loincloth. In his arms, he holds a long cylindrical object, which is a symbol of rulership. The same symbol appears regularly on other Cobá stelae that depict rulers. The missing lower part of his body appears on the recently-discovered section of the stela. (Photo from Peabody Museum, Harvard University)

The glyphs are too worn to provide a complete narrative. However, among them are the name Chan Yopaat, preceded by the title kalo'mte. Roughly translated, kalo'mte it means "king of kings". This would be the title of someone who is a leader of the highest rank in Classic Maya society. A kal'omte rules not only his own city, but has authority over other towns and cities beyond the limits of his immediate domain.

According to a glyph on a stela located in another part of Cobá, Chan Yopaat became Kalo'mte in 682 AD. He died a decade later in 692 AD of an unknown cause. However, a stela at the city-state of Edzna declares that its ruler captured an important noble person from Cobá in 692. We know that Chan Yopaat died in 692 because that was the year his son, Mat K'awill, became Kalo'mte of Cobá. Since ritual sacrifice was the usual fate of a ruler captured in battle, the unnamed Cobá noble may have been Chan Yopaat himself. 

The lower section of Stela 11 is in much better shape. It was long assumed that this part had been irretrievably lost. However, it was found during routine maintenance in 2010 by a worker named Esteban May who noticed part of it protruding from the ground. At some point in ancient times, Stela 11 had been broken (possibly deliberately). This part was then set into the niche in the middle of the bottom of the stairs, about a meter (3ft) behind the position where the top section stands. (Photo from  Pari Journal)

Appearing among the glyphs on the lower portion of Stela 11 are the name and title of Kalo'mte Xaman K'awiil. Archeologists pieced together various Maya calendar dates on this stela and elsewhere at Cobá and concluded that the year that he acceded to the throne was 632 AD. Since he took the throne 50 years before Chan Yopaat, the royal figure on Stela 11 is probably not Xaman K'awiil. It is more likely that Chan Yopaat erected the stela to depict himself and made reference to the earlier monarch in order to emphasize his own legitimacy. To date, Xaman K'awiil's name has not been found anywhere else at Cobá.  

Drawing of the lower portion of Stela 11. Here, we see two "finely carved legs of an individual wearing sandals and a loincloth with a long front flap, as well as the end of a necklace supporting a bar carved in the image of de-fleshed head, with three tubular beads at each end". Similar objects, suspended from necklaces, appear on other stelae at Cobá that portray royalty. These objects were worn by rulers when they dressed as warriors and intended to take captives.

"Accompanying the central figure is a smaller, kneeling captive with hands bound, wearing ear flares, a ko'haw headdress and a belt around his waist." A ko'haw was the war helmet of the War Serpent cult and was made of rectangular shell plaques. It was worn by rulers of city-states. This suggests that the captive was a ruler who was defeated, captured, and probably faced  ritual sacrifice. The depiction of a ruler standing next to bound captives, or sometimes on top of them, is a common image not only at Cobá, but in other Maya cities. (Photo and quotes from Pari Journal)

Offerings discovered near Stela 11 included this treasure trove of jade. After discovering the missing stela piece, archeologists dug deeper into the niche where it was found. They soon unearthed numerous pieces of jade jewelry. These included a necklace, ear flares and tubes, various other beads, an ax, and jade fragments. Jade is not natural to the area around  Cobá, so these pieces were probably brought by sea-going canoes up the Caribbean Coast from Valle de Motagua in Guatemala. That area was dominated by Maya cities like Quirigua. (Photo from  Pari Journal)

Spondylus shells were part of the Stela 11 trove. Spondylus americanus is a mollusk found along the Caribbean Coast in reefs and intertidal areas. Often called the "spiny oyster", their shells were used for jewelry by the ancient Maya. The value that the inhabitants of Cobá placed on these shells is shown by the fact that they were found along with the highly-valued jade offerings. In addition to the Spondylus shells and the jade, archeologists also found two shell beads, a snail shell, two worked fragments of mother of pearl, and two fragments of obsidian blades. (Photo from  Pari Journal)

Patio F's south and west sides 

The north wall of the Acropolis' platform forms the southern border of Patio F. This massive three level wall has a steep staircase near its eastern end. The rounded corners indicate the influence of the Petén architectural style of northern Guatemala. While the staircase steps and the top level were made with cut stones, those of the two lower levels were uncut. This huge platform supports the 43 structures on top of the Acropolis. Building the platform would have been an immense construction project in itself, requiring thousands of man hours from hundreds of workers.

People inhabited the area around Cobá's lakes long before it became a city. Forest clearance began as early as 1650 BC and maiz (corn) was being planted in lakeside milpas (small fields) by 850 BC. Between 300 BC and 250 AD (the Pre-Classic era), there were still only small villages, inhabited by people who supported themselves by hunting and farming. 

During the Early Classic period (250 AD to 600 AD), Cobá's population began to increase. Power became more centralized in the long process of consolidation into a city. During this period of social stratification, limestone began to be used to create temples, pyramids, and residences for the emerging elite. These structures included La Iglesia pyramid, along with many of the other structures on the Acropolis. However, the common people still lived in simple huts called nah'ob, made of perishable materials. 

The west side of Patio F is bordered by a broad staircase. This structure (17a) is the eastern half of Ball Court #1. The ball court has two parallel sides and their interior walls slope down to a ground level corridor that forms the central part of the playing field. I will show the ball court in detail in Part 3. The city's elite class would have mounted these stairs in order to view the playing field on structure 17a's west side. The steps may have also functioned as stadium seats for people facing east, in the opposite direction, in order to view ceremonies conducted in Patio F.  The other two sides of Patio F are the un-excavated Structures 18 and 20, which I didn't photograph.

By the fifth century AD, Cobá had become a thriving city. It is one of the few pre-hispanic cities where we know the original name. Ko'ba'a. means "ruffled or choppy water", an obvious reference to the surface of the lakes around which the city was built. Archeologists know the name because they found it carved on a stone panel on the wall of Ball Court #2 (Grupo D). The glyphs on the panel also contain dynastic information. This includes the name of Juunpiktook, the founder of Cobá's royal dynasty. He acceded to the throne in 494 AD but, at this early stage, he was probably just a local ruler, not a kalo'mte.

The Kaan Staircase and the structures along it

The northwest corner of the Acropolis is formed by Structure B-2.  Note the small stone skull on the sloping wall beside the stairs in the photo's center. This is the same skull I showed in the first photo of Part 1. It is one of a pair that brackets the stairs. At the top of the stairs is a row of square columns that once supported a roof. Structure B-2 forms the northern edge of Patio A. In the background, you can see the massive staircase leading up to the top of La Iglesia. The long Kaan stairway begins to the right of this corner of the Acropolis, just out of sight.

During the Late Classic period, from 600 AD to 900 AD, Cobá was the dominant power in the northern Yucatan Peninsula. It was during this time that most of the major temples, pyramids, sacbeob ("white roads") and stelae were built. Cobá's rulers extended their control over outlying towns and cities, either by conquest or through marriage alliances. In the process, they came into conflict with other powers on the Peninsula. One of them was Oxkintok, a city located 200km (125mi) away on the western side of the Peninsula. Although only 3 hours away by car today, it would have been a tough march in ancient times.

View to the north along the Kaan Staircase. From Structure B-2, the staircase stretches south along the west side of the Acropolis for 100m (327ft), to a palace called Structure B-4. The stairs face west into a broad plaza, from which six sacbeob branch out in several directions. On the top of the Kaan Staircase stand the ruins of a palace. The name Kaan means "snake". This is a reference to the strong connection between the Cobá dynasty and that of the Kaan (Snake) Dynasty, also known as the Kaanul. The Snake Dynasty originated in the city of Dzibanche in the southeastern part of the Peninsula. 

In fact, Cobá's rise was due in part to the support of the Kaanul. The Cobá dynasty's founder, Juunpiltook, came to power under the patronage of the Kaanul. This was part of the strategy of the ambitious Kaanul rulers, who worked to expand their own power by assembling a sprawling network of allies and subordinate city-states. In 631 AD, the Kaanul seized power in the city of Calakmul and moved the seat of their dynasty there from Dzibanche.  Calakmul is located just north of the Mexican border with Guatemala.

The Kaan Dynasty was the great rival of the rulers of Tikal, which is located 350km (220mi) south of Calakmul in northern Guatemala. The rulers of Tikal maintained a network of client states and allies similar to that of the Kaanul. The conflict between these two Maya superpowers lasted for centuries, with the advantage changing hands several times. In the Maya world, alliances were often made through inter-dynastic marriages. Over time, the Kaanul rulers arranged the marriages of several of their daughters to Cobá's rulers. Some of these women became powerful in Cobá and at least one attained the rank of kalo'mte.

 

Stela 12 stands in front of the southern end of the Kaan Staircase. Some pieces of this broken stela were found in 1923. Other fragments were unearthed seventy years later in 1993. The stela is very worn but still contains a few traces of its original markings. These include two captives with bound wrists. They kneel on either side of a pair of legs ending in sandaled feet that belong to a much larger figure. The only traces of this royal figure left on the stela  are the profile of a face and parts of a headdress. Stela 12's position in front of the Kaan Staircase suggests that this monument commemorates an important event or person.

Drawing of Stela 12, showing the kneeling captives. Cobá peaked in its power about 800 AD, but then began a slow decline. Around 1000 AD, at the start of the Post-Classic era. Cobá came into conflict with a rising power known as Chichen Itza. The Itza people of that city were energetic and had learned an advanced manner of warfare, possibly from the highly militarized Toltec civilization of Central Mexico. 

The conflict with Chichen Itza resulted in Cobá's defeat and subjugation. The city continued to prosper economically for a time and even built new temples and monuments over the next couple of centuries. However, Cobá had become politically eclipsed and never regained its ascendancy. 

Structure B4 stands just south of Stela 12 along the Acropolis' west side. The broad staircase leads up to a row of rectangular pillars that form the front of an elite palace. This is one of several "flying staircases" at Cobá. On the right side of the stairs you can see the entrance to a tunnel that extends all the way to the far side of the stairs. This tunnel is what gives the staircase its name. Flying staircases are part of the Puuc architectural style of northern Yucatan that flourished during the Late Classic period.

During the centuries following its defeat by Chichen Itza, the population of Cobá declined by over 90%. Increasingly, the city's role became that of a religious shrine and pilgrimage site. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 1520s, the once rich and powerful city was mostly abandoned. A small population may have continued for a short while, but they too soon departed. Cobá's mighty pyramids and temples became crumbling mounds covered by the encroaching jungle and the city slowly disappeared. Its existence would not be known for hundreds of years, outside of the small number of Maya living near it.

A small palace or temple named Structure B-5 is located just south of Structure B-4. Structure B-5 forms the southern end of the west side of the Acropolis. An un-excavated structure called B-7 forms a right angle with the southern end of B-5. Structure B-7 is a long rectangular mound that extends to the west, forming the southern border of the large courtyard into which the west side of the Acropolis faces. (see the site map above).

This completes Part 2 of my Cobá series. I hope you have enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, please remember to include your email address so that I can respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

Cobá Part 1: A center of Maya power for 1000 years.

 A carved stone skull peers out from the wall of an ancient Maya ruin at Cobá. This is one of a pair of skulls that flank a flight of stairs on Structure B-2 in the Group B (Grupo Cobá) section of the ruins. The stairs lead up to Patio A, which contains La Iglesia ("The Church"), the second largest pyramid at Cobá. It is sometimes also called Nokhu. I will show the pyramid later in this posting. 

This begins my series on the city of Cobá. Politically and economically, it was one of the most important city-states in the ancient Maya world. Cobá was first inhabited in Pre-Classic times and continued to be occupied through the Classic and into the Post-Classic era, a span of time lasting about 1,800 years. There may have been a small population still in residence at Cobá when the Spanish first arrived in the 16th century. 

The main sites at Cobá are in four separate groups and this blog series will take you through them one at a time. Each group will take several postings. The pattern of habitation of the city was concentric, with the four groups in the center. The rest of the population, and the structures within which they lived and worked, was spread out in concentric circles. The overwhelming majority of the city has never been excavated.

Overview:

Cobá is about half way between Valladolid and the coastal town of Tulum. It is located in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo which runs along the eastern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula from its northern tip all the way to the nation of Belize in the south. Cobá is 47km (29mi) inland from Tulum, the site of another famous ruin. The city of Valladolid (see my Valladolid Adventures series) is about 60km (37mi) northwest of Cobá. The ruins can also be reached from Cancun, about 138km (86mi) on the northeast coast of the Peninsula. 

From Valladolid, take Highway 180 east for 28.9km (32mi) to the outskirts of the town of Chemax. Just before the town, a sign will indicate a right turn for Cobá and Tulum on Highway 109. After this turn, you drive about 30km (19mi) until you reach a glorieta (traffic circle). A sign will indicate a right turn for Cobá. Follow this road for several kilometers to the modern pueblo of Cobá. As you pass through the pueblo, the road curves to the left along a lake. After a few hundred yards, you will reach the gate to the Cobá Archeological Zone. Park in the lot and take the trail into the ruins.

 

The view from the top of Piramide Ixmoja reveals a vast expanse of flat jungle.     Cobá was unknown to Europeans until the late 19th century, in part due to this thick jungle. Another reason was the violent unrest that plagued the Peninsula, particularly during the 19th century. The Ixmoja pyramid is the 3rd tallest in the Yucatan Peninsula. The second is at Calakmul, near the border with Guatemala. The most lofty is at the recently excavated city of Ichbal, near Lago de Bacalar in southeast Quinana Roo. Cobá appears to have had a relationship with both of these city-states, as well as many others in the Maya world. 

The explorers John Stephens and Frederick Catherwood heard about Cobá's existence when they visited Chemax in 1842. However, the wild trackless jungle made it too remote to reach in the time available. Then, the Caste War broke out in this area in 1847, precluding almost all non-Maya from visiting. However, Juan Peón Contreras, Director of the Yucatan Museum, reached Cobá in 1882 and made a few sketches. In 1893, Teoberto Maler arrived and took a photo, but didn't publish it. Thus, Cobá remained unknown to the world until well into the 20th century. Serious excavation and restoration didn't begin until the 1970's.

This is the sort of jungle that early explorers encountered. Much of it still exists today. Archeologists have mapped 6,500 mounds in the jungle, in and around Cobá. However,  they have only excavated about 10% of them. The structures we see today are a tiny fraction of what was one of the Maya world's largest, most powerful, and most economically prosperous cities. At its peak Cobá had a population of about 50,000 and covered an area of 48 square km (30 square mi). However, the areas excavated so far are primarily the pyramids, temples, and palaces utilized by Cobá's elite inhabitants. 

The vast majority of the mapped mounds were once the residences and workplaces of the common people. Most of these structures were what the Maya called naho'ob: low stone platforms that were topped by perishable wooden structures, with palm frond roofs. However, among the mounds that have been excavated, differences have been noted in their size and complexity. This suggests that the commoners were not an undifferentiated mass, but had differing levels of status and wealth, like most complex urban societies.

Among Cobá's outstanding aspects are the number and length of its sacbeob. A sacbe (sacbeob is the plural) is a raised stone causeway and Cobá has at least 50. Shown above is a chart of the ones built to reach outlying areas. The map does not include most of the sacbeob internal to the city itself. One sacbe reaches all the way to Yaxuna, just south of Chichen Itza. Its length is a whopping 100km (62mi). The workers used tools made of stone, wood, and bone. No wheeled vehicles or draft animals were available to these ancient people. It was all just human labor. Few Maya cities equal Cobá in sacbeob.

There are several lakes in the area of Cobá, including Lago de Cobá, Lago de Macanxoc, Lago de Yax, and Lago de Sinacal. In addition to its sacbeob, these naturally occurring lakes were important factors in the city's economy and power. Most of the Yucatan Peninsula has no above-ground lakes or rivers and the climate can be quite dry for long periods of each year. In many places limestone sink holes called cenotes are the only water sources. The easy availability of large quantities of fresh water for drinking and agriculture gave Cobá a substantial advantage over many of its rival city-states.

Remains of a sacbe, still functional more than 600 years after Cobá was abandoned. To construct a sacbe, Maya engineers first built retaining walls on either side, then laid down a layer of large stones. Covering these were several layers of smaller stones, ranging from cobble to gravel. The top layer was sascab, a naturally-occurring powdered limestone, mined in local areas. Finally, the sascab layer was covered by stucco, made by burning limestone and mixing it with water to create a brilliantly white surface. Sacbe, in fact, translates as "white road". Archeologists speculate that, since the climate was hot, travel occurred at night and the white surface helped people follow the road.

The sacbeob served multiple purposes. They facilitated the movement of people and goods between Cobá's domain and other city-states. They also enabled the rapid movement of troops to outlying areas in order to conquer them, or to fend off rival city-states. The shining white roads were also an expression of the political power of Cobá's ruling elite. There were downsides, however. First, the roads could literally pave the way for invaders. Second, creating the stucco required the burning of limestone.This, in turn, required a great deal of wood, contributing to deforestation and ultimately to ancient climate change.

The excavated portions of Cobá include four main groups of structures. The sacbe from the entrance at Lago Cobá leads you to Group B, also known as Grupo Cobá (Ruffled Water Group). This is the oldest part of the city and is the site of Ball Court #1 and the Acropolis containing La Iglesia pyramid. Continuing on, you come to a fork. Sacbe #4 heads off to the left and Sacbe #9 goes right. 

Nestled in the fork and continuing up to the left along Sacbe #4 is Group D. This contains the Conjunto de Pinturas (Paintings Group), Ball Court #2, and other structures. It is the newest part of the city and was built primarily in the Post-Classic period. At the end of the left fork is Group C, or Grupo Nohoch Mul (Big Mound), the site of Piramide Ixmoja. The right fork--Sacbe #9--takes you to Group A (Grupo Macanxoc), the ruins of which contain a large number of stelae.

There are hundreds of structures in these four groups, more than I could possibly examine and photograph during our day-long visit. In addition there are many more not shown on the map above, which only focuses on the main sites. Consequently, this series will only provide a taste of what there is to see at Cobá. It would take days, or perhaps several separate visits, to see the majority of the excavated structures. So, allow yourself plenty of time when you visit. To shorten the walk between the groups, you can rent a bike at the entrance.

La iglesia and Stela 11

Piramide La Iglesia stands on the north end of the huge Acropolis platform. The open space in front of the pyramid is Patio A. At the lower left is Stela 11, covered by a small palm frond palapa. La Iglesia is the second tallest pyramid in Cobá and stands 24m (79ft) high. There are nine levels, each with the rounded corners characteristic of the Petén style. The number of levels may relate to the nine levels of Xibalba (the Maya underworld). Unfortunately, climbing the pyramid is no longer allowed. Stela 11 will be shown in Part 2 of this series, along with some of the treasures that were recently unearthed at its base.

La Iglesia was built in the Early Classic period (300-600 AD) and had several modifications over the centuries. The last was during the Post-Classic era (1000-1450 AD), when a temple was added on top. The Acropolis platform contains the largest concentration of buildings at Cobá. There are 43 structures, various courtyards, a grand plaza, and several stelae. While most were not accessible when we visited, I was able to photograph some on the north and west sides, as well at Ball Court #1. I will show all these in Parts 2 and 3 of this series. Six of Cobá's sacbeob branch out from the Acropolis in various directions.

The ancient Maya constructed a tunnel into the left side of La Iglesia. The tunnel has a corbel arch and two rooms that branch off to the right. Entry to the tunnel was not allowed, so this was all I could photograph. The purpose of the tunnel is not clear, but it may have served to store sacred ceremonial objects or for secret rituals open only to priests and the ruling elite. The far end of the tunnel is blackened. This may be natural or it may be carbon from the sacred fires burnt as part of the secret rituals.

A seven-step staircase leads up to Patio F.  The north wall of the Acropolis platform forms the south side of the Patio. On the left side of the photo is the south end of Ball Court #1. The east side of the Ball Court structure and the north wall of the Acropolis form two of the four sides of Patio F. The layout of the Acropolis seemed a bit jumbled when I first encountered it. Part of this is probably a result of its many modifications over the centuries. However, as I have studied it more closely, I can see some interesting results from these modifications. 

For example, the east side of the Ball Court apparently had two functions. It is basically a broad staircase that leads up onto the top of the structure. From there, a person facing west could view the game on the playing court below. On the other hand, the stairs themselves face east, into Patio F. This would make them into grandstand seats for a crowd facing in that direction to watch ceremonies or rituals conducted in the Patio. The Maya engineers were extraordinarily clever in their architectural designs.

A small broken stela stands under a palapa near the Acropolis. It is surrounded on three sides by a low U shaped structure. The palapa is a modern addition to protect the stela. Stelae often contain hieroglyphs and the images of rulers, but some are blank like this one. There are at least 34 stelae and inscribed panels at Cobá, some of which have yielded important historical information about rulers and events. Often they include dates from the Maya calendar which enable archeologists to construct a timelines. In the course of this series, I will show some of these stelae and panels. 

This completes Part 1 of my Cobá series. My next two posts will focus on other structures on or around the Acropolis. I hope you have enjoyed this first part. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, please don't forget to include your email address so that I can respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim