Ajijic's Tianguis - Ancient street market in the 21st Century

At the Ajijic tianguis, the unusual is the norm. Huichol Indians use tiny beads to make masks and other decorative objects to sell at the tianguis. In the Nahuatl language used by the Aztecs, tianguis means "market place". Tianguis, pronounced tee-ahn-gees, are held all over Mexico and have been since long before the Spanish arrived. You can buy an incredible variety of goods at one of these street markets. Everything is available from folk art to flashlight batteries to fresh fruits, and often you can bargain for a lower price than the one requested.

A serenade for a pretty gringa. The Ajijic tianguis is an entertainment in itself, even without a purchase. With their spirited music, the two street musicians amused the gringa above as well as other passersby. In Ajijic, the tianguis is held every Wednesday from about 10 AM to about 2 PM along Calle Revolution from where it meets the Carretera down about two blocks to Calle Constitución. I like going in the cool morning hours between 10 AM and noon when it is a little less crowded. Those looking for bargains may want to wait until shortly before the booth operators begin to pack up in the afternoon and are amenable to a quick sale.

Your work of art created as you watch. There are usually several artists working on their creations while they wait for a sale. This young woman uses a small trowel instead of a brush. Not great art, but original, fun and evocative. She sells paintings like the one above for a very reasonable price.

Death on a burro. The Mexican attitude toward death is often humorous, unlike the typical whispered dread found north of the border. Above, a rather tipsy skeleton (we would call him borracho) straddles a braying donkey. This hand-carved little piece is just the thing for that friend who likes to "tip a few" a bit too often. Or, if you live in Mexico like me, a great little decoration for the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).

Quite a number of booths are dedicated to jewelry. Some of the stones are sold unset, and others come in necklaces, bracelets, rings, and pendants. The stones may include onyx, fire opal, amthest, jade, amber, turquoise and any number of other semi-precious stones. The settings are often in silver which has always been plentiful in Mexico. There are numerous jewelry crafts people in town, as well as those who visit just for the tianguis.

Ceramic masks hang in rows or cover a blanket on the ground. Masks are found in nearly every society, but have special meaning in Mexico. The ones above were created for purely decorative purposes, but many masks are still made for Indian ceremonies and nominally Catholic fiestas. The earliest known masks from pre-hispanic times date back 3,500 years. After the Spanish arrived, masks were often used in ceremonies and plays to present Christian stories so that the Indians could be weaned away from their native religions and indoctrinated with Catholicism.

Cleaning nopal takes a deft touch to avoid the spines. These woman make it look easy, but novices usually end up with a hand full of maddeningly tiny spines. The occupants of this booth sold not only fresh nopal, but doll babies in carriages. This follows the typically odd juxtaposition of sales goods found in the tianguis as well as in neighborhood stores called tiendas. Nopal comes from the cactus plant often called "prickly pear". The flat paddles are harvested from a live plant, scraped of their spines, then either sold as is or cut up in strips. I have occasionally sampled nopal fresh off the plant on my various hikes in the mountains. It is deliciously crisp, with a slightly tart taste. There are also various tasty recipes for cooking nopal. Carole uses it as a side dish, or in vegetable soups. Nopal is also very nutritious and good for conditions like high cholesterol. There is evidence that humans have been harvesting nopal for at least 12,000 years.

A tempting treat, but one deserving caution. Cups of various freshly cut fruits can be purchased at the tianguis. These look delicious and probably taste great too. I have been pretty cautious about sampling, because there are no handwashing facilities at the tianguis, and one can catch a good dose of the "turista" from foods like this. The germs that cause turista, known north of the border as Montezuma's Revenge, are easily passed through handling money. As an aside, Mexicans who travel to the US and Canada often get turista there, and sometimes resent the term Montezma's Revenge as a slur on Mexico. I use the term here only for purposes of recognition. Desculpe to my Mexican friends.

Colorful textiles are everywhere in the street market. Woven rugs and embroidered purses are especially nice, and often quite inexpensive. Carole has purchased a number of hand- embroidered pillow covers for about $9.00 USD each. The girl who operates the booth told us that she and her family make them. One caution: they are not necessarily color-fast, so watch out when washing them.

A young flute-maker prepares to try out his creation. This young man rewarded me with a warm smile when I asked to take his picture with his carved wooden instrument. Very likely, I will hear one of his creations played by one of the numerous street musicians around Ajijic.

Huichol Indian art is exquisite and full of mystical meaning. Usually there are several tables operated by Huichols selling beaded items from large-size jaguar heads to small bracelets. The amount of careful work that goes into even relatively small-sized masks such as those above is daunting. This may be why I have found few Huichols willing to reduce their asking price for their work. One time I watched a Huichol craftsman at work on a full-sized representation of a jaguar. When I asked him how long it takes to finish a work like that, he thought about it a moment and then simply said "until I am done".

Huichols also use colored thread on flat boards. This panel is about 18 inches (45.7 cm) on a side. On a similar creation, one of my friends actually counted the stitches in a 2 inch by 2 inch section and calculated that the whole square had more than 60,000 stitches. Typically included on one of these panels are symbolic representations of the plants and animals found in the Huichol's natural world. Peyote, found in the desert, is a key part of the Huichol religious expression. As one woman said "Peyote opens our hearts so that we can see with our hearts". There are about 18,000 Huichols left, mostly concentrated in remote areas of Jalisco and Nayarit States. The ones we see at the tianguis and around the Lake have come to sell their creations, or perhaps have been dispossessed from their lands back home. They are instantly recognizable by their wonderfully embroidered clothing and the hats that the men wear. Very few Huichols will allow their picture to be taken. They are a shy, but very proud people.

Marimba bands are usually found in or around the tianguis. What distinguishes Mexican marimbas are the multiple players one finds behind the instrument. The polished and lacquered instrument itself is a thing of beauty. There is usually one person with an accompanying instrument that is rhythmically scraped, but which is also shaped like a flour scoop and doubles nicely for tip collections. Marimbas are especially popular in the southern states of Mexico, and some claim that the Maya had a hand in its invention. However, it is most likely an import from Africa, brought over by slaves put to work by the Spanish. I usually tip the bands generously because they provide such a wonderful atmosphere, and the life of street musicians is hard.

Beans, corn, nuts, dried fruits and more! My eye was attracted to the vivid colors of the mounded products in these bins. Corn, beans, and squash have been grown by native people in Mexico for about 6000 years. The method originated by the ancients is still used today in small milpas (family fields) that I have seen in the mountains and backcountry around Lake Chapala. The corn and beans are planted together. The beans use the corn stalk as a stable climbing platform. In turn, the nitrogen-loving corn gains from the beans which have an unusual ability to draw nitrogen from the air and put it into the soil. Squash is planted between the mounds containing the corn and bean plants. The long vines of the squash cover the ground and keep weeds down. Unfortunately, the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) has allowed US corporate agribusinesses to dump large amounts of these industrially-created products in Mexico. This has driven thousands of small farmers from the land. The farmers then head across the border to find some way to support their families by working in the fields of US agribusiness or cleaning their corporate offices, among other things.

How much is that puppy in the milk crate? One can usually find puppies for sale. These two look almost identical to many others I have seen roaming the streets of Ajijic. As a dog lover, I have very mixed feelings about this. Very few dogs in Mexico are neutered, either those with families or strays. Consequently there are legions of dogs throughout the town. However, the fact that they roam freely means that they are far better socialized than dogs I have encountered north of the border. I have seen few dog fights, and whether stray or owned by a family, they are unusually friendly with strangers. I have begun to believe the level of confinement of US dogs, and the degree or irregularity of their encounters with other dogs or people, drives them a little nuts. The Gringos in town have started several animal shelters and somewhat reduced the numbers of strays, but these efforts are always scrambling for donations. One such outfit, Anita's Animals, regularly sells used books in the tianguis to raise funds.

Rugs from Oaxaca hang from trees near the tianguis' entrance. Wonderful rugs are woven all over Mexico, but those from Oaxaca State are particularly prized. Typically, these rugs are strung up from handy branches along the Carretera near the Calle Revolution entrance to the tianguis. The Indians of Oaxaca are known as Zapotecs and had a high level of culture at the time of the Spanish Conquest. In fact, Zapotecs were weaving cotton textiles as far back as 500 BC. After the Conquest, Franciscan Friars introduced Merino sheep, which have long-fibred coats ideal for weaving. The Zapotecs rapidly adapted to this new resource and their colorful rugs are found everywhere. Carole and I got lucky and found a beautiful 8 foot x 4 foot rug at a garage sale for only $10.00 USD. Those pictured would sell for much more than that, and would be well worth it.

Bottom line, the tianguis is just a lot of fun. A vegetable vendor above enjoys a laugh with a friend while waiting for a sale. Notice the old-fashioned scoop-style scales on either side of him. There are no regular electrical outlets available, but the old way works just fine. The vendors are always ready with a quip or a smile, particularly for those customers they recognize. Expats here often comment how much better the produce at the tianguis looks and tastes than that bought in a supermarket. Generally it comes from small plots and fields worked by the vendor, or a family member or friend and may have been harvested as recently as that morning.

This completes my posting on Ajijic's tianguis. It is definitely should be a "must-visit" for your relatives or friends from out of town, or for yourself if you have never been. And if you are visiting some other part of Mexico, ask around for the tianguis in your area. I guarantee you'll have a lot of fun.

Hasta luego! Jim

Zamora Part 4: Tangancicuaro, a tranquil little jewel

Plaza de Tangancicuaro, with the Templo Virgen de la Asunción in the background. Several fountains ring the perimeter of the Plaza. They surround the quiosco (bandstand), which is partially visible in the upper right of the photo. The area is nicely shaded by palms and carefully-groomed ficus trees. Tangancicuaro de Arista is a small city of about 30,000 people, located 14 km (8.7 mi) southeast of Zamora. In Part 2 of this series, I showed Lago de Camécuaro, the national park located nearby. Carole and I first visited that beautiful lake and, afterward, decided to check out Tangancicuaro. It turned out to be one of those charming little jewels that are so often overlooked or bypassed by foreigners. In pre-hispanic times, the town was called Acuitze, which means "snake." After the Spanish arrived, the local Purépecha renamed it Tangancicuaro, which can be interpreted as "Place Where Three Waters Rise" or, alternatively, as "Place Where the Stakes Are Nailed." There are good arguments for both, so take your pick. In 1881, the name of Mexican general and 19th century President Mariano Arista was added, and the town became Tangancicuaro de Arista.


The Plaza

The quiosco is also surrounded by lush gardens. Another of the fountains is silhouetted against the bandstand. A couple of Mexican women chat while sitting on the natural bench formed by the garden wall. As you can see, it was a lovely morning. Quioscos like this can be found in the vast majority of Mexican plazas. Sometimes they are elaborate, with multiple levels, and occasionally even contain a restaurant or tourist office. However, most are simple and follow the general design seen above. It was not until the 19th century that quioscos began to pop up in many of Mexico's plazas, although a few may have appeared before then. They became popular, along with many other French styles, during the reign of Emperor Maximilian (1862-67). After the dictator Porfirio Diaz took power in 1876, he encouraged the adoption of European customs, including quioscos, as a way to promote modernity.

An elderly Purépecha couple while away the morning. The woman wears a traditional embroidered skirt, a white huipil (blouse) and a rebozo (shawl). The man is dressed in a modern style. This is quite typical of indigenous couples I have encountered all over Mexico. The women seem to be the custodians of traditional ways, at least in terns of clothing. In Chiapas, I saw some Maya men in traditional garb, but they were few and very much the exception.

Three young students enjoy a stroll through the Plaza. From their uniforms, they probably attend one of the local Catholic colegios (prep schools). Many schools in Mexico operate on double shifts, morning and afternoon. It was about mid-day when I took this shot, and given their relaxed appearance, these kids had probably just finished their classes for the day.

Presidencia and Portales 

The national flag waves over the Presidencia (city hall). The peak of an extinct volcano rises in the background. The line of wooden columns along the front of the Presidencia is typical of Michoacan. The state is covered with dense pine forests. Consequently, where such columns in other places might be of stone or plaster-covered brick, here they are often of wood, sometimes intricately carved. The typical plaza in Mexico is surrounded by a government building on one side, a church on another, with the remaining two sides filled by small commercial businesses such as copy centers, internet cafes, and restaurants. Nearly always, there will be an ice cream shop.

Two sides of the plaza are bordered by pedestrian-only walkways. Given the traffic that can clog the narrow streets of even the smallest towns, I always welcome areas where you don't have to dodge hurtling taxis or kids wildly scooting by on motorbikes. The vertical sign by the door of one of the shops reads "Boneteria." That is the word for is a shop that sells clothes and clothing related items like needles and thread. Here, too, the walkway is lined with tall wooden columns. Someone has left a bicycle casually leaning against one column. In a small town like this, with many eyes watching, theft is probably not much of a problem.

Another view of the same walkway. A woman in a fringed rebozo walks away with her purchase as a man prepares to serve a customer from his small blue ice cream cart. Notice the coin-operated children's rides along the wall. From the looks of it, this building may well have once served as the mansion of a wealthy 18th or 19th century local hacienda owner.

Food stalls line the pedestrian walkway along the fourth side of the Plaza. Three satisfied customs walk away from a booth selling carnitas. This tasty dish consists of small pieces of braised or barbecued pork. It is usually served with tortillas along with various relishes such as chopped onions. The purchaser rolls these ingredients into steaming tacos. Mexican "fast food" at its best!


The Tianguis

A tianguis filled several streets adjoining the Plaza. A tianguis is an open market selling every kind of consumer product imaginable. They are usually held on specific days of the week and many booth operators come in from surrounding villages to participate. I always find them fascinating and great for people-watching. The history of the tianguis goes back thousands of years into pre-hispanic times. The word itself comes from Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs. When Hernán Cortéz and his Conquistadores arrived at Tenochtitlán (modern Mexico City) they visited a vast tianguis. Its size and the range of its products boggled their minds.

Chicharrones, a tasty treat that contains an unimaginable quantity of cholesterol. Chicharon is pork skin deep-fried in the melted fat of the pig. Usually it is prepared by a butcher in a large vat shaped something like an oriental wok. While cooking chicharon, the butcher stirs the vat periodically with a large wooden implement resembling a canoe paddle. The wonderful smell soon draws a line of customers, most of them no doubt destined to die young from clogged arteries.

A smiling chicken vendor displays his wares. The chicken doesn't come much fresher than this. Most of these guys were probably still strutting and clucking the morning I took this shot. Notice the old-fashioned balance scale on the table. If it ain't broke, and it worked just fine for grandpa, why replace it with digital?

Dolls dressed in the finest quinceañera style were also for sale. As I explained in Part 1, a quinceañera is a special celebration for a girl who reaches her 15th birthday. It is a coming-out party, announcing to the world that she is now a woman. The dolls are Mexico's answer to Barbie, and are probably treasured by dreamy pre-teens.


The Church

The parish church faces onto the north side of the Plaza. The original evangelization of the area was accomplished by the Augustinian Order in the 16th and 17th centuries. In the latter century, the parish was dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption. The main body of the church was built in the 18th Century with a red volcanic stone known as tzontle. The two steeples were constructed with a different kind of stone and appear to have been added at a later time.

Vividly colorful artificial flowers were for sale on the church steps. I wasn't clear whether or not the flowers were related to some activity going on in the church. Perhaps this was just a convenient spot to set up shop. Things are done that way in Mexico.

The entrance is through a beautifully carved wooden screen.  Notice the ceiling. In churches elsewhere, a ceiling will usually be covered with plaster, often painted with designs or pictures. In this case, rows of wood rafters were used, again the product of Michoacan's prolific forests.

The interior of the dome is also constructed of wood. This is one of the most unusual domes I have ever encountered in a Mexican church.


Street scenes

A bicyclist pedals up a narrow street leading away from the Plaza. We had parked on a side street a couple of blocks up and were walking back to our car when I snapped this shot. From the look of the door and window frames, a lot of the structures on this street are quite old. Notice the two-toned color scheme on many of the houses. This is typical of many towns one finds in the back country. So are the single story buildings and the narrow sidewalks and streets.

Two farmers wearing cowboy hats stride past a colorful house. I was planning to photograph the house with its wildly contrasting orange walls and blue window shutters when I spotted this pair. I waited until I could frame them between the windows. For some reason, brilliant blue doors and shutters are popular all over this part of Michoacan. Only in Mexico would a color scheme like this work.

This completes Part 4 of my Zamora series. I hope you enjoyed it and, if so, you will leave your thoughts and questions in the Comments section below, or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

Our Mexican neighbors at the Lake

A picture of contemplation. I’ve taken over 4000 pictures in Mexico so far, and used less than 200 in the various postings to this blog. Most of my posts have focused on a location or event such as a visit to a colonial city or a fiesta. I wanted to focus on people this time. As I sifted through those thousands of photos, some themes started to emerge. I decided to show the Mexicans I have encountered in the Lake Chapala area, such as the young woman above, engaged in typical activities that demonstrate their industriousness, their humor, their attachments to family and religion, their delight in music and pageantry, and above all their beauty and humanity. So, let me introduce you to my Mexican neighbors…

Lakeside Mexicans work hard at an wide array of jobs and businesses.

Saturday night chicken, comin' right up! Mexicans in the Lake area are small town people, mostly living in the numerous small villages and towns around the lake. Few jobs pay much. However, almost everyone—even the kids—seems to have one, and many have several jobs and/or small businesses they pursue. The boy in this photo is part of the family that owns the small clothing material store behind him. Every Saturday and Sunday they set up the grill and the wonderful smell drifts up the street, drawing hungry neighbors from all directions. A cooked chicken, accompanied by roast potatoes, and salsa—enough to last several meals for two people—costs about $7.00US.

Sharing a laugh at the tianguis. A lot of food is sold informally on the street, brought in fresh that day from gardens often owned by the person selling the food, or a relative. It is generally very inexpensive. Carole often buys enough vegetables to provide several of our meals for the equivalent of $1.00US. Every Wednesday people flock to the Ajijic tianguis, a street market several blocks long, shown above. Other towns along the Lake hold their own tianguis on different days. Shopping at the tianguis is great fun and the sellers often seem to enjoy it as much as their customers.

"Fast food", the Mexican way. Our neighbor Pancho has a small vegetable store across from Seis Esquinas Plaza, selling all the usual vegetables plus coconuts and sugar cane. He was happy to let me photograph him cooking garbanzo beans in front of his store. The hot, salty beans are sold in small plastic bags—the Mexican version of “fast food”. Quite tasty!

Craftsman at work. One can find small carpenter shops on almost every street. They make shelves, furniture, signs, and even crosses for graves at the local cemetery. Chumer, the craftsman shown here, very kindly invited me into his cool, shady shop on a hot day and chatted with me about his experiences living in California while he worked on his beautiful creation.

A work in progress. J.V. Lopez Vega is a noted local artist whose home and studio are just down the street from our house. His large murals grace the walls of Ajijic in several places and he is currently painting a masterpiece on the third floor ceiling of the Ajijic Cultural Center. As with many Mexican muralists, his work is very symbolic and mystical. His paintings are heavily oriented toward the Lake itself and the animals living around it. Ajijic has been an artist colony for over 80 years, attracting both Mexican and foreign painters, sculptors, jewelry makers, potters, and every other kind of artist imaginable. Public art is abundant, such as the huge wall mural now under way at the local city hall. Another example is the sculptor who is transforming a huge tree stump in the Plaza. Private art is displayed at art shows and exhibitions as well as on the exterior walls of shops and homes all over Ajijic.

Guillermo & Son. Selling Vinos y Liquores (wines and liquors) across the street from Seis Esquinas Plaza, Guillermo does a brisk business. He posed proudly with his son at my request. The first time I visited his store, which is a gathering spot for those in the neighborhood who like to tip a few, those in attendance insisted in pouring me a large glass of tequila. Hospitality seems to be the rule in a Mexican village. I also suspect that, as the new gringo in the neighborhood, I provided a source of cheap entertainment.

Bath time. Cowboys and their horses abound in Ajijic and the country around it. Most are working animals, not just for show, and appear to be well fed and cared for by their owners. This cowboy chose a hot day to wash his mount. The horse seemed to enjoy the cool spray. There are quite a few cattle too, and small cattle drives down the cobblestone village streets are not unusual. Carole and I once encountered a stray from one of these drives. The cow was quite anxious and followed us like a lost puppy as we walked, mooing plaintively if we drew ahead too far. When we turned a corner, the cow became almost apoplectic and mooed at us to keep moving in the direction she wanted to go. We had to decline.

Family life is central to Mexicans

Young family enjoying the activities at the plaza. This family was watching a mariachi band at Seis Esquinas Plaza during a fiesta when I approached them for a picture. I didn't pose them, this is how they were naturally standing, framed by the doorway in perfect balance. Even the dog was right. It is one of my favorite shots. The only thing unusual about this family is the single child. Perhaps they were just getting started. Mexican families usually have multiple children, even though the number has been dropping with the spread of education and birth control. It is a very family-oriented society. Mexicans we meet often seem puzzled when they ask about our children and I tell them Carole and I have none.

High spirits. Mexican village society is a young society and children abound. These boys are engaged in a spirited pick-up game of soccer-style kick ball. Even the smallest children practice soccer (or futbol) moves, and big international tournaments rivet the community. A family will place a TV on a table in the street and the whole neighborhood will gather around to watch and root for their favorites.

Families on parade. The whole family participates in the life of the community. This young family was walking in the parade commemorating the Virgin of Guadalupe. They looked so happy and beautiful as I took the shot that, on impulse, I followed them to the churchyard. Approaching them, I asked if they’d like to see the shots on my digital screen. They were so pleased with the result that I promised to email the photos to them after the parade. I got back a very gracious reply when I did so. Taking pictures is a great way to break the ice, even if there is a language barrier. I managed to conduct this entire interaction in Spanish, including my email message to them. A personal victory!

Proud mother shows off her little one. Parents who have dressed their children up for special occasions seem especially receptive to an offer to photograph them. This mom adorned her baby with a hand-stitched top and skirt and wrapped her against the cool fall air with a beautiful rebozo, the all-purpose shawl carried by many Mexican village women. The rebozo is used not only as a wrap, but to carry packages, and to tote kids on backs or around waists.

Getting his licks in. Was there ever a kid who didn’t enjoy a chocolate ice cream bar on a hot summer evening? This one was definitely getting his licks in and seemed very pleased with himself. I have to admit that the ice cream sold in stores found around nearly every Mexican plaza is excellent. I’m with you, kid!

Religion plays a complex role in Mexican life

Mexico has an ambivalent relationship with religion. It is rare to walk through a Mexican Catholic church and find it empty. Nearly always someone is praying quietly, head bowed, lips moving silently through the words of worship. Jalisco State is one of the most conservative, church-oriented areas of Mexico. The State Capital, Guadalajara, was the center of the Cristero War when Catholic activists fought against an attempt in the 1920’s by the Mexican government under President Carranza to curtail the power of the church by enforcing anti-clerical provisions in the Mexican Constitution dating back to the 1850’s. For many years, priests and nuns were forbidden to wear their robes and insignia on the streets. Church property was confiscated and turned into libraries, museums and other sorts of public buildings.

Until I read up on the Cristero War, I had been very puzzled to find a plaque on the wall of a local church stating it was property of the federal government. Referring to Mexico’s ambivalent relationship to both God and its northern neighbor, Mexican President Porfirio Diaz commented “Poor Mexico, so far from God, so close to the United States.” Currently, there is a huge controversy about an effort by the Jalisco Governor to allocate about $9 million (US) to help the Jalisco Catholic hierarchy to build a huge new church. The Governor claims that it will increase religious tourism and therefore provide jobs. It remains unclear whether he will be able to pull it off in the face of vehement opposition from some parts of the public who think the money better spent on programs for the poor.

Preparing the way. Many of the fiestas held throughout the year have a religious core, such as those for the Virgin of Guadalupe (patron saint of Mexico and particularly of its Indios), San Andres (the patron saint of Ajijic), the Day of the Cross, as well as Christmas and Easter. The whole community gets involved. In the case of Palm Sunday, neighborhood men come out to sweep and water down the cobblestone route of the procession on their block, and then the women and children spread greenery just as in the biblical story. Along with our Canadian neighbors, we joined in to support the community effort, although we are not religious. It was fun, and the neighborhood kids had a hilarious time when we turned the hose on them.

Front row seats. Once the processional path was prepared, families took their seats to await the show. This shot is typical of any Ajijic evening on my street, fiesta or not. Families gather on their doorstep or curb, a mixture of adults, kids, friends, even the family dog. Someone is sure to be selling tacos off a griddle or tamales out of a pot they set out on the street in front of their homes. Socializing goes late into the evening, and even the babies are up. I feel quite safe walking around Ajijic streets at night, because the whole community is out and about, and nearly everyone treats me with friendliness and courtesy.

Drumming up some business. Mexicans are a practical people, and every occasion—even a religious event—is an opportunity to add to the family income. Some of the local Indio women and young girls conducted a thriving trade in beautifully hand-woven palm fronds during the Palm Sunday procession. This woman strode briskly past our house toward a potential group of customers, carrying her baby the old fashioned way, in her rebozo. I have seen 16th Century wall murals portraying this very scene.

Playing the part. The religious fiestas are remarkable for their level of pageantry. Costumes are detailed and people actually look the part as they act out their roles. Even animals get into the act, although the donkey carrying Jesus in this photo seemed altogether more interested in munching the greenery on the cobblestones, hence the two assistants keeping a firm grip on his halter. Several days previously, I had been startled to turn a corner and encounter a Mexican toting a full set of very realistic Roman armor down a busy street, no doubt on his way to a rehearsal.

Our Mexican neighbors love to socialize at every opportunity


Kickin' back at the plaza. Cowboys from the local ranches come to hang out in town at the Seis Esquinas Plaza. They were enjoying a mariachi band at the Virgin of Guadalupe fiesta. Carole tells me that you must have a certain “gravitas” to wear hats like these fellows. They seem to have more than their share. Throw on a serape, a couple of crossed bandoleers, and a Winchester, and any of these guys could have ridden with Pancho Villa.

Out on the town. All Terrain Vehicles (ATVs) like this are becoming very a popular form of local transportation, especially among the younger set. And by “younger” I mean down to nine year olds. The ATV drivers zip around somewhat heedlessly, so it pays to look closely before attempting to cross the street. Apparently Mexico has no age laws for driving these vehicles on the street, or at least doesn’t enforce them. Since I have seen toddlers, unassisted, riding horses taller than I am, I suppose it all makes some kind of strange sense.

Abuelas give me the eye. I found these elderly women on a shady bench at the Chapala Plaza (see my November posting: A quiet morning in Chapala). Abuelas (grandmothers) like this are greatly respected in Mexico. This pair seemed very skeptical of my photographic efforts. They have wonderful, “lived-in” faces. I’ll bet their stories would be every bit as good as those of the viejos in Ajijic, and possibly truer.

Going for the gusto. Sights like this are an everyday occurrence in Ajijic. We have come to love the clop, clop, clop of hooves on the cobblestones outside our house. This pair were probably heading into town for a cold Modelo beer at a local cantina. This is one reason why we live in a Mexican village like Ajijic rather than a big city like Guadalajara.

Police come in all flavors, from friendly to scary

Friendly. There are many varieties of police officer in Mexico. Probably the friendliest and most easy going are the traffic cops who wear the white shirt and black trousers and are assigned to intersections in a rather random way, it seems to me, regardless of the traffic situation. This officer asked me to take his picture with his shiny Ford pickup. There have been reports of a “kissing cop” (not the cop pictured) among the traffic police. The kissing cop offers to drop a citation in return for a kiss from the women he stops, many of whom are well past sixty. The bemused women involved report that he is very genial and non-threatening about it. I haven't heard about any takers.

Sort of friendly. The city police have a somewhat more serious demeanor. They are very polite and always wave back at me when they zoom by in their pickup trucks, usually with a couple of heavily armed officers casually riding in the back. The level of armament carried by the police can be a little unnerving at first. This pair was standing at the entrance of the small Ajijic city hall annex across from the Plaza. The woman is toting an Israeli-made Uzi submachine gun, a light machine gun with awesome firepower. Police officers such as these take care of ordinary criminal activity. A couple of times I have seen them cool out large groups of young men who looked like they might be about to get into mischief at a party or fiesta. A quiet but very earnest conversation with one of these cops settled things down immediately, with no arrests.

Somewhat less than friendly. The scariest cops I have encountered are the State Police, who dress in black jump suits with bulletproof vests and carry large assault rifles. They always look very serious, probably because they deal with narcotrafficantes (drug dealers), and are fairly regularly killed. Sammy, my neighbor down the street, used to be a state police officer but gave it up to run his own one-man taxi business because the pay was too low and the work too dangerous. My advice: don’t even think about messing with these cops!

Mexicans like to participate in their culture as performers, not just spectators

Charros are Mexico's traditional cowboys. The term “charro” originated in Jalisco where there are more of them than anywhere else in Mexico. These great horsemen (and some horsewomen) train their horses to dance to the music of the mariachi bands, among other things. Mariachis are another group that originated in Jalisco. The cowhide banner this proud rider carries says “Charros of Ajijic, Guarantors of our Traditions”. Those traditions go back to charro origins in Salamanca, Spain. The figure on the banner is the Virgin of Guadalupe. Everything about these charros is classy, from their clothing, to their saddles and equipment, to the horses themselves.

Band practice at Seis Esquinas. Every neighborhood seems to have its own band, and Seis Esquinas is no exception. This group was practicing in our little plaza for the San Andres fiesta. What they may have lacked in musical quality, they made up for in volume and enthusiasm.

Dancing with the stars, or under them in this case. These beauties danced during the Day of the Dead fiesta. The stage was set up outside the local “panteon” or cemetery about ¼ mile down the street from our house. Even standing still, they show grace and poise. Notice the lovely hand stitched dresses and colorful rebozos used in their dance performances.

And now for something completely different. While walking down a back street in Ajijic, I suddenly came across this fellow. He managed to dance, play the flute, and tap on a tiny drum all at once. There was nothing else going on, no fiesta or other event, he was just performing and hoping to make a few pesos from passersby. Behind him came his tiny Indio wife, who shyly extended a cup for donations. I gladly contributed, amazed at his dexterity and ingenuity.

Send in the clowns. As far as I could tell, this fellow wasn’t interested in donations. He danced and made faces just to amuse the children at the hot air balloon contest during the Revolution Day events. The kids were delighted but his dog appears to have seen his show once too often.

On parade at the rebozo show. These women obviously put a lot of work into their dresses and gorgeous handmade rebozos. They proudly strutted their stuff at the Rebozo Fashion Show during the Independence Day fiesta.

The children get into it too. This bright-eyed pair giggled as they waited their turn at the Rebozo Fashion Show. The one on the left is wearing traditional Indio costume similar to what I saw Purepecha Indios wearing in their villages at Patzcuaro. They are wearing their rebozos as head coverings. All their clothing is hand made.

Gettin' down at the Ajijic pier. These guitarists set up on the steps leading to the Ajijic Pier just a sunset. They appear to be playing just for the fun of entertaining their friends and themselves. Wherever we go at Lake Chapala, we find wonderful live music like this.