Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Xochicalco Part 1 of 9: "The Place of the House of Flowers"

The Great Pyramid of Xochicalco.  This imposing structure looks directly south over the Plaza of the Two-Glyph Stela on the southern end of the ancient city. Visiting this World Heritage Site was a high priority when Carole and I stayed at Taxco (see Taxco Parts 1-9 on this blog). Xochicalco (pronounced Soshi-cal-co) is one of the finest examples of a city of the Late Classic Era in pre-hispanic Mexico. Its ruins can be found atop a high hill overlooking the modern pueblo of Xochicalco. Excellent cuotas (toll roads) connect the ancient city with Taxco, about an hour's drive to the southwest. In addition, the city of Cuernavaca is less than 1/2 hour by cuota to the north.  To locate Xochicalco on a Google map, click here.

This five-petal flower emblem reflects the city's name. Xochicalco means "Place of the House of Flowers" in Nahuatl, one of the pre-hispanic languages still widely used in Mexico. However, the people who spoke it arrived in the area during the 13th century, three hundred years after the city was abandoned. These Nahuatl-speakers still inhabited the area around Xochicalco when the first Spanish arrived in the 1520s. Numerous decorative stone emblems like the one above have been found in various parts of the city. The name the Nahuatl-speakers gave to the ruins may reflect the prevalence of the stone flower emblems. While people have inhabited the area as early as 200 BC, they lived in small villages until about 650 AD, when the city was founded. The long delay in urbanization may have been caused by the eruption of Volcan Xitle, sometime between 50 AD  - 350 AD.  Once founded, Xochicalco's rise was meteoric, but its history lasted only 250 years, the flicker of a candle in the vast span of pre-hispanic history. The end came suddenly in flames and destruction around 900 AD. What language the people spoke during Xochicalco's Late Classic occupation, and what they called their city, are still unknown. 


Teotihuacán-style mask used by priests in religious ceremonies. The mask was suspended from the neck of the wearer by a cord through the hole in the forehead. This sort of symbolic decoration is called a "pectoral" because it covered the wearer's chest. The style of the mask is significant. The great empire of Teotihuacán (100 AD - 650 AD) had a tremendous influence not only on Xochicalco but on the rest of Mesoamerica. That influence was still potent almost 900 years later during the Aztec Empire (1236 AD - 1521 AD). 


Xochicalo was a fortress city, built on a high hill with a 360 degree view. The scale model above can be found in the site museum. It is no coincidence that Xochicalco was founded about 650 AD, almost the exact moment when Teotihuacán fell. While the city was beautifully designed in an architectural and artistic sense, it was also carefully constructed for defense. This reflects the chaos and conflicts that erupted when Teotihuacán collapsed. Xochicalco may well have been founded by refugees of that collapse. 


One of three stelae unearthed at the Pyramid of the Stelae.  A stela is an upright stone on which glyphs containing language, dates, and sometimes the image of a god or ruler are carved. Stelae are usually associated with altars and are often found either at the base or on top of a temple or pyramid. Although there are definite Teotihuacán elements in the stelae, there are also Maya designs. This indicates a strong Olmeca-Xicalanca influence. These people were Maya from the southern Gulf Coast area of Mexico. Despite their name, they should not be confused with the ancient Pre-Classic Olmecs (1500 BC - 400 BC). The Olmeca-Xicalanca dominated another fortified hill-top city--Cacaxtla--during a period that was almost exactly contemporaneous with Xochicalco. In addition to these stelae, other examples of Maya influence can be found throughout Xochicalco and those, too, are often closely associated with Teotihuacán designs. It appears that Xochicalco may have been a multi-cultural trading community that included not only former Teotihuacanos and Olmeca-Xicalancas, but other groups as well. Stone carvings containing Zapotec numeric symbols have been found here. The Zapotecs were based in Oaxaca and their capital was the hill-top city of Monte Alban.  


Plaza of the Two-Glyph Stela looking west. The two glyphs are carved into the upright stone standing in the middle of the altar in the upper left. The temple in the upper right is one of two on an east-west axis that face each other across the plaza. The rubble in the lower right is part of the southeast corner of the Great pyramid. The two glyphs contain dates that have been interpreted as "Reptile Eye" and "10 Cane" and may be associated with Quetzalcoatl, one of Mesoamerica's most important gods. His name means "Plumed Serpent" because he was part bird (quetzal) and part snake (coatl). Teotihuacán devoted a huge complex entirely to Quetzalcoatl and the god is also depicted at Xochicalco in a number of places. 


Censer bearing the wrinkled face of Huehueteotl, the Fire God. A censer was a device for burning incense, usually copal, during pre-hispanic religious rites. The Fire God (later called Xiuhtecuhtli by the Aztecs) was yet another important deity shared by Xochicalco and Teotihuacán. The huge Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacán was once thought to be dedicated to the Sun God. However, the name "Pyramid of the Sun" was an Aztec invention. They came along much later and had their own political reasons for associating the long-abandoned pyramid with their chief deity, the Sun God. Recently, excavations on the top of the Pyramid of the Sun uncovered the remains of a temple devoted to Huehueteotl, whose name means "Old, old god". Discovery of the means to control fire dates back to Paleolithic (Old Stone Age) times. It was one of the earliest and most important human discoveries and long pre-dates agriculture. Given the Fire God's importance and antiquity, it makes sense that the Huehueteotl would be given the honored position atop the greatest pyramid of the greatest empire of Mexico's early pre-hispanic history. Given Xochicalco's association with Teotihuacan, it follows that he would be honored here too.


Bowl ringed with dancers demonstrates a high level of artistic expression. The multicultural nature of Xochicalco's population attracted artists from many places. Works like this no doubt ended up in traders' packs as they journeyed throughout Mesoamerica. The basis of Teotihuacán's power had been its domination of a far-reaching trade network. These routes extended from the US Southwest to the ancient Maya city of Copán in northern Honduras. Well-trod trails also ran east and west between the Atlantic and Pacific Coasts. When Teotihuacán's empire collapsed in 650 AD, Xochicalco and Cacaxtla quickly emerged as regional powers, due to their strategic locations. Xochicalco controlled trade from southern Mexico and the Guerrero Coast, while Cacaxtla dominated the routes from eastern Mexico and the Gulf Coast. Near modern Zacatecas, another hill-top-fortress we now call La Quemada sat astride the main network coming down from the north. La Quemada's founding and abandonment almost exactly match that of both Xochicalco and Cacaxtla. Interestingly, La Quemada means 'The Burned Place". Early Spanish explorers gave the ruins that name after noting traces of a great conflagration, much like that which occurred at Xochicalco at approximately the same time.


Conch shells were highly valued and thus became important trade goods. These probably came from the Pacific Coast area, possibly gathered along the shores of the coastal kingdom of Xihuacán which reached its peak between 650 AD and 959 AD, contemporaneous with the other trading cities already mentioned. Conch shells were primarily used as trumpets by military commanders and temple priests. Although the pair above don't appear to be decorated, many such conches have been heavily incised with elaborate designs. Blowing a conch produces a low, mournful, wailing sound that carries for long distances. The soldiers of Conquistador Hernán Cortéz listened helplessly while native priests blew long blasts on their conch trumpets as, in the distance, captive Spaniards were dragged to the top of a great temple to be sacrificed to the Aztec War God. 


Image of a monkey from the Ramp of the Animals. The graceful fluid energy of this relief carving shows Maya influence. Monkeys are not native to the area around Xochicalco, indicating that these creatures were also part of the trade that that flowed through the city. The monkeys may have served as pets, as well as sources of food. When I first began to study the pre-hispanic period of Mexico's history, I viewed the 200-300 year intervals between the great empires of Teotihuacan, the Toltecs, and the Mexica (Aztecs) as chaotic dark ages. It appears, however, that these periods abounded with vibrant city-states, intense trade activity, and multiple forms of artistic expression. True, armed conflicts sometimes broke out between city-states, primarily over control of trade routes and resources. In addition, migrations from the north by Chichimec nomads sometimes resulted in destructive raids (the burning of La Quemada may have been the result of one of these). Still, for the most part, these were periods of great energy and creativity in art, architecture, and trade. There is, no doubt, a relationship between all this and the cross-fertilization of ideas that occurred within the multi-cultural societies upon which these trading communities were based. 


Sunken courtyard with a stone altar atop the Pyramid of the Stelae. This is one of the highest points at Xochicalco and the view toward the south is extraordinary. The lake in the upper left provided part of the city's water supply. Water was also captured through a series of drains and catchment ponds within the city itself. These display a high level of hydraulic engineering skills on the part of Xochicalco's builders. The three stelae referred to earlier, which show mixed Teotihuacan and Maya designs, gave the Pyramid of the Stelae its name when they were discovered here. The pyramid occupies the southeast corner of the great open area, called the Plaza Principal, around which numerous other religious structures and elite residences were built. The area would have been reserved for nobility, priests, warriors, and their families.


Censer decorated with the face of Tlaloc, the Rain God. Tlaloc is one of the most recognizable gods in the Mesoamerican pantheon. He is distinguished by the "goggles" around his eyes, his fangs, and the forked tongue that droops from his mouth. Among the top tier of pre-hispanic gods, Tlaloc is possibly the second oldest, after Huehueteotl. It is certainly true that, after control of fire, the next greatest development of archaic times was agriculture. Squash was cultivated in Mesoamerica as early as 8000 BC. Water is an essential element for the cultivation of crops. Unless you live close to a river, lake, or year-round spring, rain is the source upon which you most depend. Hence, the Rain God. Tlaloc was revered for the crop-sustaining water he brought, but also feared for his great storms which brought lightning and hail. When the Spanish arrived at the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, 600 years after Xochicalco was abandoned, they found a temple to Tlaloc atop the great pyramid they called the Templo Mayor. The Aztecs gave the Rain God equal billing with Huitzilopochtli, their own Sun/War God, a relative newcomer to the ancient pantheon. More than 1000 years before the Aztecs arrived on the scene, artists at Teotihuacán filled the walls of their palaces with murals of Tlaloc. He appears there very much as you see him on the Xochicalco censer above.

A pair of Tlaloque. Keeping the earth green was a big job and Tlaloc couldn't be expected to do it all on his own. His assistants were four dwarf-like Tlaloque, who lived with the Rain God on cloud-shrouded mountain tops. The rain water was kept in huge clay jars and, when the Tlaloque broke them, the sound produced was thunder. Lightning resulted when the falling clay shards struck the earth.

Sculpture of a fanciful mammal, possibly a fox. Xochicalco's artists used a wide variety of natural materials including clay, stone, bone, and shells. They were very knowledgeable and sophisticated about the characteristics of their various media and in the ways to achieve the best results. However, some of the materials were not locally available, particularly certain stones with desirable colors. In order to obtain a regular supply for the manufacture of trade goods, as well as for local use, marriage alliances were formed with other groups in areas that had the necessary materials. When such alliances were not possible, conquest was the next resort. Xochicalco conquered the area around Taxco because of the availability of highly-sought-after green stones. 


Mask carved from a section of human cranium. The mask was found at the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl and probably belonged to a warrior who wore it around his neck as a chest ornament. The creation and use of masks in Mesoamerica has had an unbroken history from at least 3000 BC until modern times. Masks are often worn during ritual dances and one of these, the Danza de los Tlocoleros, has been practiced in the area of Xochicalco since pre-hispanic times. The dance, which is still performed today, involves a group of Tlocoleros (hunters) who search for a jaguar that has been destroying their fields. The Tlocoleros represent rain deities and the jaguar represents the dry season. Pre-hispanic people were not in the least squeamish about using human remains, especially bones, for various purposes. Recent analysis of bone fragments found at Teotihuacán has revealed that, shortly after death, human bodies were sometimes de-fleshed and the bones used to create buttons, combs, spatulas, and needles. The analysis showed no signs of ritual sacrifice and the bones were from people native to Teotihuacan, rather than foreign war captives. Apparently they were the bones of recently deceased adult relatives. The cranial mask above indicates that this practice may have been brought to Xochicalco by early Teotihuacan refugees.


The Pyramid of the Plumed Serpent is richly decorated. It stands in the middle of the Plaza Principal. The pyramid once had a temple on top but that was either destroyed during the great conflagration of 900 AD, or it may have gradually collapsed during the following millennium. Quetzalcoatl was another of the most important deities of pre-hispanic times. He was the patron of merchants, arts, crafts, learning, and knowledge, seemingly a perfect fit with Xochicalco. The lower, sloping parts of each side of the structure contain high relief sculptures of writhing Plumed Serpents in a distinctly Teotihuacan style. In the spaces created by the curves of the snakes' bodies, human figures appear in the Maya style. They are each seated cross-legged with their faces turned in profile. Richly dressed, the figures apparently represent kings, priests, and warriors of the Xochicalco elite. Other sections of the pyramid are decorated with various animal, floral, and abstract designs. In a future posting of this series, I will show you details of all this.


Segmented serpent displayed in Xochicalco's museum. Notice how the segments are fitted together. With enough of these, the snake sculpture could be made to appear to writhe or coil. Snakes have been revered as mystical creatures at least since early Olmec times. The skin-shedding cycle suggested renewal and rebirth. In addition, since many snakes can move freely between water, the earth, and the forest canopy, this quality suggested an ability to act as an intermediary between the different parts of the cosmos. Further, the tendency of snakes to make their nests underground matched beliefs about the underworld origin of life. Finally, since snakes can be viewed as both beneficial and dangerous, the pre-hispanic concept of cosmic duality was reinforced.


Sculpture of a sitting feline. This snarling cat wears a pectoral. that indicates high rank. From its size, the figure probably represents a jaguar, although pumas and ocelots were also revered. Such felines were believed to have a mystic connection to the earth and fertility and to exercise power over nature. Since jaguars are powerful hunters who prowl for prey at night, they were believed to move freely between the world of darkness (the underworld) and the world of light (daily reality). These powers made them important religious symbols, while their power and skill at hunting made them important figures within the military cults.


How the Xochicalcans saw themselves. This sculpture is interesting in several respects. First, its remarkable realism suggests that it was modeled on an actual person. From the jade necklace and earrings, he was probably of high rank. The Maya perfected the sculpture-in-the-round style so the sculptor may have been of that background, or at least trained by someone who was. The figure openly displays a dislocated shoulder and deformed hand, perhaps as a badge of honor. This suggest that at one time he had been a great warrior who was injured in battle. In sum, the sculpture seems to portray an actual person who was at one time a great lord of Xochicalco.


Xochicalco shared Mesoamerica's preoccupation with death. The skulls are "life" sized. Death was another aspect of the duality of the cosmos, it's opposite being life. Death was not to be feared, since it simply involved a transition to a different plane of reality. Xochicalco's brilliant 250-year life came to an abrupt end some time around 900 AD. The archaeological evidence shows smashed and scattered materials throughout the portion of the city occupied by the nobility, priests, and warriors. Those materials, and the structures around, them were covered by a layer of ash, suggesting that the elite area was sacked and then burned. The neighborhoods on the terraces and hills surrounding the elite area were not burned, and their goods were left intact and in their normal places. This indicates a gradual abandonment over time. All this creates a strong probability that the destruction was the result of an internal revolt, the reasons for which remain unknown. However, a similar sacking and burning, restricted to elite areas, occurred at Teotihuacán in 650 AD. Apparently, in the end, Xochicalco could not escape its heritage.

This completes Part 1 of my Xochicalco series. If you enjoyed it, please leave any comments or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. 

If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

Thursday, December 29, 2016

Taxco Part 9: Hotel Monte Taxco's dramatic vistas

The spires of Parroquia Santa Prisca, silhouetted against mountains and sky. I took this long-lens shot from Hotel Monte Taxco's restaurant terrace. Carole and I decided to pay it a visit after touring ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo (see Part 8). I will finish my series on Taxco with the hotel's stunning vistas. Monte Taxco is a mesa that looms hundreds of feet over Taxco. The hotel sits on the edge of the mesa's dramatic cliffs. Ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo is located not far from the station of a tram called the Teleferico. We decided to use it to reach the mesa's top and were rewarded with an exhilarating ride. To locate Hotel Monte Taxco and the tram station on a Google map of Taxco, click here.


El Teleferico

The Teleferico, heading up. The four-passenger cars make the round trip at regular intervals. Since there were no other occupants besides Carole and myself, I had full access to all the windows for photos. The Teleferico runs 8am - 7pm, Monday through Thursday, and 8am - 10pm on Friday and Saturday. Fares are $65 pesos ($3.15 USD) one-way and $95 pesos ($4.60 USD) round-trip for adults. Children younger than 11 pay $45 pesos one-way and $65 round-trip. In addition to the Teleferico, there are two other routes to the top. One is a cobblestone road called Calle Alfredo Checa Curi. The other is a foot trail. We chose to take the tram up and then walk down the road because those routes offered the best views.


Carole turns to look back at the Teleferico station. The tram car gained altitude quickly and the view improved as each moment passed. The ride was quiet and smooth, enabling a rapid-fire series of photos in all directions. I only include a few here to give you a taste.


As we rose toward the summit, more and more of Taxco came into view. The tram station is the building with the bright red roof in the lower center. In this shot, you can get a sense of the steepness of the slope to which the city clings.


Speaking of clinging... On our way up, we passed these houses, cantilevered onto the sides of a nearly vertical cliff. As land suitable for construction becomes scarcer, and views become increasingly valuable, builders resort to daring solutions. Taxco has had one earthquake in the last 30 days and 8 in the last 365. I'm not sure I'd want to be in one of these structures when a big one hits.

Hotel Monte Taxco

Hotel Monte Taxco can be seen on top of the mesa in the upper left. This shot was taken from the balcony of the Angel Inn restaurant, looking north across central Taxco. The cliffs below Monte Taxco are blackened by mineral stains. They drop hundreds of vertical feet. In the foreground of the photo is ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Siena, seen in Part 8 of this series.


The hotel is built so that most rooms have balconies with views of the city. We considered staying at Hotel Monte Taxco, but decided on Hotel Los Arcos instead (see Part 1 of this series). Although the views from Monte Taxco are breathtaking, and the hotel itself is both lovely and reasonably priced, it is quite removed from the center of town. This would have necessitated regular use of our car on the crowded and narrow streets. We always like hotels that are near the main plaza of a town, where most of the interesting things can be found. Those without a car would need to use the Teleferico or a taxi to get down to the city below. At Los Arcos, we could keep our car garaged most of the time and just walk around.


An arbor walkway extends out from the center of the hotel toward the cliffs. This would be a nice spot to enjoy the shade on a warm day. There are great views through the arches on either side of the walkway.


A view to the west from the arbor walkway. The red tile roofs cover part of the hotel's guest rooms. Each of the rooms faces the city far below.

View to the east from the walkway. Here you can see the pool and, above it, some of the rooms. To the right of center, under the tile roof, is the terrace of the restaurant. Carole and I decided to stay for lunch and picked a table between the two columns on the far left of the tile roofed area.


Carole sits at the table at the end of the restaurant terrace. At that moment, we were their only customers. This allowed us to choose the table with the most panoramic view.

The view from our table. Our server was very attentive and obliging. At my request he pointed out several landmarks so that I could zero in on them with my telephoto lens. The food was excellent and reasonably priced, but it was hard to pay it any attention with this spectacle before us.


La Vista Grande

View toward the south showing central Taxco. Parroquia Santa Prisca is in the upper right quadrant of the photo. The city spills down the steep slopes like water flowing downhill. It then pools out into a depression surrounded by low hills. White walls with red tile roofs are the dominant color-scheme, a style that has persisted for centuries. Taxco's many attractive qualities have enabled the city to achieve the coveted status of Pueblo Magico (Magic Pueblo).


Santa Prisca is surrounded by closely packed homes, hotels, and other structures. In the background, range after range of mountains extend into the distance. Towns and cities can became Magic Pueblos if they possess natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance. Taxco has all three of these qualities in abundance. Since the program was launched in 2001, over 100 Pueblos Magicos have been designated throughout Mexico.


As Taxco expanded over the centuries, one possible direction was uphill. The steep slopes of the surrounding hills are packed with structures, many of them dating to colonial times. Narrow cobble stone streets wind and twist throughout these neighborhoods.


Some neighborhoods extend right up to the base of awesome cliffs. These are among Taxco's most impressive natural features.


Some parts of the city extend down into the various arroyos that cut through the area. Building in arroyos is always risky. Heavy rains bring mudslides which roar through them with devastating effect. People who build, or buy properties, in arroyos always seem to think "it will happen sometime, somewhere, but never here."


A cobblestone road with hairpin turns connects Hotel Monte Taxco to the city below. After lunch, we decided to walk down this road, rather than take the tram. We were rewarded with more stunning vistas, as well as a look at some of the beautiful homes along the way.


View of Hotel Monte Taxco and hillside homes from the road below. The tall white structure in the middle of the hotel is an elevator. It is at the end of the arbor walkway that extends out from the hotel.

This completes Part 9 of my Taxco series. In the next couple of postings, we will visit the great, pre-hispanic ruin called Xochicalco, to the northeast of Taxco. I hope you have enjoyed the series as much as we did the actual visit. If you have questions or comments, please either leave them in the Comments section below or email them to me directly.

If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Taxco Part 8: Ex-convento de San Bernardino de Siena and ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo

View of ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Siena from the Angel Inn restaurant balcony.  In the background, sheer cliffs rising hundreds of feet provide a dramatic backdrop. Attached to the convent's church is a white building with a red tile roof and five arched windows. This was once part of the convent complex. Behind the ex-Convento, you can see the white steeples of Parroquia Chavarrieta, another of the small churches serving the barrios of Taxco. The ex-Convento is located along Calle Juarez, another of this Magic Pueblo's wonderful walking streets. Juarez stretches from Plaza Borda down to the Carretera (highway) near the eastern entrance to the city. Unlike many of Taxco's streets, Juarez' grade is relatively gentle, making for easy walking. In this posting, we'll look at the ex-Convento and the ex-Haciennda de Chorillo, both built in the 16th century. To locate these sites on a Google map of Taxco, click here.

Ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Siena

Calle Juarez makes a "dog-leg" turn where it meets Plazuela del ex-Convento. The Plazuela is a small plaza which adjoins the church. Ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Siena was built in 1592 by a Franciscan friar named Francisco de Torantos. The initial work was financed by Antonio Verru Bravo, a wealthy Taxco silver miner. However, construction funds ran out before the convent was complete, so the rest had to be financed with alms. In 1802, the original adobe church burned down. When it was rebuilt with stone in 1804, a Neo-classic facade was added to the original Romanesque structure. The convento is named after San Bernardino de Siena (1380 - 1444), a Franciscan friar. In his early career, he threw all of his considerable energy into helping the sick. Later, he began to preach with such impact that some towns refused to let him leave unless he promised to return. Even when he was dying, San Bernardino preached for 50 consecutive days. He refused various offers of a bishop's position, but eventually became Vicar General of the Franciscan Order. Pope Pius II called him the "second Paul".


The church nave shows a strong Neo-classic influence. The Convento played a role in the War of Independence from Spain. In 1821, the war was at a stalemate, with the insurgents unable to beat the royalists, and the royalists unable to stamp them out. Political changes back in Spain prompted royalist General Agustin Iturbide to approach his opponent, the insurgent General Vicente Guerrero, with a proposal to an end to the conflict. Iturbide used the Convento as the site to draft the Plan de Iguala, which is also called the Plan Trigarante (Plan of the Three Guarantees). The Plan established Mexican independence with three guarantees: a constitutional monarchy; an official religion of Roman Catholicism; and equal rights for Mexicans, whether they were born in Spain or Mexico. Vicente Guerrero recognized this as the best chance to end the war and win independence. He agreed to merge the insurgent and royalist armies and signed the Plan de Iguala. On August 24, 1821, the Spanish Viceroy ratified the Plan by signing the Treaty of Córdoba. With this, Mexico became an independent nation.


This Virgin of Montserrat is a copy of one of the most famous statues in Spain. The Spanish statue is kept at the Maria de Montserrat monastery on Montserrat Mountain in Catalonia. The original statue, sculpted from wood in Romanesque style, was probably carved in the 12th century. The Madonna and Child of Montserrat originally had much lighter complexions. Over the centuries, either candle smoke or chemical changes in the varnish caused the faces, hands, and feet to turn black. The copy seen here reflects the original's later appearance. The orb that the Virgin holds in her right hand represents the universe. San Pedro Nolasco (1189 - 1256) made a pilgrimage to visit the Virgin of Montserrat in 1203. As a result he was inspired to found the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary for the Ransom of Captives to help Christians enslaved by the Moors. Three hundred years later, in 1522, a Spanish soldier named Ignatius Loyola visited the Montserrat shrine. There, he laid down his weapons forever, as the first step toward creating the Society of Jesus, or Jesuit Order.

Several of the statues above are carried in Taxco's various religious parades. In the center, under the crucifix, a female figure reaches up from the middle of roaring flames. This is called Anima Sola (the Lone Soul) and represents Purgatory, similar to a statue in the Capilla de San Nicolas Tolentino, seen in Part 7. To the right of Animal Sola is a statue of San Francisco (St. Francis of Assisi) who founded the Franciscan Order. To the left of Anima Sola is a small statue of San Judas Tadeo. He was one of the Twelve Apostles, but was not the Judas who betrayed Christ. Almost nothing is known of San Judas Tadeo because he is the least mentioned Apostle of the Gospels. Abhorring a vacuum of information, Catholic Tradition created a story for him. According to legend, San Judas Tadeo accompanied Simon the Zealot to Persia to evangelize. There, they were both arrested and executed for refusing to worship the local gods. There is some dispute over whether Judas' head was crushed with a mallet or cut off with an ax, but no disagreement about the result. The statue of the monk on the far left is unidentified.


San Margarito Flores Garcia was martyred during the Cristero War. Margarito Flores Garcia (1899 - 1927) was born in Taxco, and is still revered here. At 15, he started to study at the seminary in Chilopie, Guerrero. He became a priest in 1924, only two years before the outbreak of the Cristero War. This was a conflict between Mexico's revolutionary government and reactionaries closely allied with the Catholic Church. There were atrocities on both sides. These included summary executions of priests by government forces and the murders of farmworkers by the Catholic Cristeros. The government was breaking up the hacienda system and farmworkers, called agraristas, were trying to participate in the land redistribution program. The Cristeros had genuine issues about government religious repression, but they were also closely allied with the hacendados (hacienda owners). Many agraristas were murdered by Cristero death squads acting on behalf of the hacendados. Margarito Flores Garcia was one of a considerable number of priests who were arrested and executed for involvement with the Cristero movement. For this, Pope John Paul II sainted him in 2000, along with 24 other priests martyred during the war.


Statue of a participant in one of Taxco's unique religious parades. This is one of three very unusual statues standing behind the ex-Convento. During Semana Santa (Easter Week) members of several cofradias (religous brotherhoods) march in a series of parades over three days. The cofradias as a group are called penitentes (penitent ones) and all wear black hoods with eye holes. Except for the women, all are naked to the waist. Each cofradia acts out a different ritual. The man above is one of the Flagelentes. They carry 100 lb. crosses balanced on their extended arms. Periodically the Flagelentes hand the crosses to helpers and then lash their own bare backs with metal-studded whips. You can see the white-tipped whip hanging down from the Flagelente's right hand.


An Encruzado (crucified one) is strapped to a bundle of sharp-thorned blackberry canes. The bundles weigh 40-50 lbs, forcing the men to walk in a stooped position. The thorns pierce the bare flesh of the Encruzados' arms and shoulders as they walk along. Only when the procession pauses do helpers ease the weight of the bundles to give the Encruzados some relief.


The Animas (Souls) are from the only cofradia that permits women to join. Above, a female Anima carries two candles and walks in a hunched position. Local people sometimes refer to this group as "the bent ones". The Animas hobble along with chains around their ankles and they can only rest on their hands and knees when the procession stops. All three of the cofradias act out traditions dating far back into Medieval history. Over the centuries, the Church has attempted to suppress these rituals, but they continue in Taxco as if it were still the 12th century.


Ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo

This ancient stone structure may have once served as a gatehouse for the hacienda. There was no identifying sign, but its age and proximity to ex-Hacienda del Chorillo strongly suggest that the building was part of the complex, possibly providing some security for the entrance. The ex-Hacienda now functions as the School of Fine Arts of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM).


View through one of the arches of the hacienda's aqueduct. The building in the background was originally one of the hacienda's work structures. In 1524, only two years after his conquest of the Aztecs, Hernán Cortéz wrote a letter to the King of Spain reporting the discovery of silver near Taxco. The hacienda, originally named Cantarranas, was built to process the silver ore extracted from nearby mines. The water necessary for the extraction process flowed along this aqueduct, which was constructed by Spanish soldiers in 1534. The hacienda later became known as El Chorrillo, which means "steady trickle" in Spanish.


This is the building seen through the aqueduct arch. It may have been where the ore was crushed. Today it houses administrators and classroom space. Although the interior has certainly been remodeled, the rough stone walls of the exterior very likely date back to the 16th century. Hacienda del Chorrillo functioned as a silver processing operation continuously from Hernán Cortéz' day until the Mexican Revolution. However, at various times during the colonial period it was also used for religious and administrative purposes by the Church and by Spanish officials.


An antigue wooden gate provides a passageway between two of several patios. The "patio system" of ore processing was invented by Bartolomé de Medina in 1555. The aqueduct provided large amounts of water which was forced through the ore to help break it up and free silver particles. Then, in the patios, salt and mercury were used to leach silver from the crushed ore.


A smelter chimney stands in the corner of one of the patios. Its construction suggests that it was built in the 18th or 19th centuries when bricks became widely available. After leaching, heat was used to separate the mercury and other minerals from the silver. The molten silver was then cast into bars, most of which were shipped to Spain during the colonial period. Because of this, hard currency was chronically in short supply in Nueva España (Mexico), in spite of the colony being one of the chief sources of this flood of silver.


One of the ore-processing patios now functions as a student break area. The exterior of the stone building and the surface of the patio itself are probably original. Notice the fountain pool at the lower right of the photo.


The fountain's water emerges from a spout extending from the mouth of the sculpture. The statue is of a pre-hispanic god named Huehueteotl, the God of Fire. His name means "Old, Old God" and he may be the oldest deity in the whole pre-hispanic pantheon. The head dress contains a bowl where incense would have been burned during ceremonies. I could not determine whether the statue is an original or a copy.


Another patio contains a well and a small, wood-fired oven. During the Mexican Revolution (1910 - 1921), the hacienda was sacked and demolished by the revolutionary forces of Emiliano Zapata. After that, silver processing ceased and the hacienda stood in ruins for a couple of decades. Then, in the 1940s, an American couple named Sullivan acquired the ruins and turned them into guest cottages. Distinguished visitors to ex-Hacienda del Chorrillo included John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy in the 1950s..


I first mistook this for a chimney, but it actually appears to the the remains of a pillar. In the 1980s the ex-hacienda was purchased by the State of Guerrero for use as the headquarters of the Centro de Gastronomy Guerrerense a cooking school specializing in dishes from Guerrero. Other parts of the property became the Centro de Artes Plastico de Taxco. In 1990, the State offered the ex-hacienda to UNAM, which created a school to teach drawing, engraving, photography, sculpture, jewelry-making, and enamel on metal artwork.


View of the aqueduct, looking out. In 2011, UNAM added Visual Arts, Visual Communication, and Art and Design as degrees offered at the school. Mexico's dedication to preserving and utilizing its architectural heritage has always impressed me. In the US, all this would have long since been bulldozed to put up a Walmart or a glitzy hotel.

This completes Part 8 of my Taxco series. I hope you enjoyed it and, if so, you will leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email them to me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section PLEASE leave your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim