The mountain pueblo of Concepción de Buenos Aires celebrates the Virgin of Guadalupe Fiesta - Part 1 of 2

A local charro awaits the beginning of the Virgin of Guadalupe parade. A charro is not just a cowboy, but a skilled horseman who performs in charreadas (Mexican rodeos) and other events like fiestas. Last December, Carole and I and some friends decided to visit Concepcion de Buenos Aires. The small pueblo lies deep in the mountains of the Sierra del Tigre south of Lake Chapala. It was a crisp, gorgeous day, but it didn't occur to us at the time that it was the December 12. 

That is the day when the Fiesta de Virgen de Guadalupe is celebrated in Mexico. So, our short trip was rewarded not only with the pleasure of visiting this beautiful little town, but we were able to enjoy their local fiesta as a bonus. This two-part series will first focus on the pueblo itself and the charros and others who gathered for the parade. Part 2 will follow the parade itself. I'm hoping to provide you with a feel for how Mexicans in these small towns celebrate their fiestas. 

17th century aqueduct that once fed water to ex-Hacienda Toluquilla. The little pueblo of the same name is located about 1/2 way between the turnoff of Highway 405 and Concepcion de Buenos Aires. If you want to visit, watch carefully for the sign because Toluquilla itself is almost invisible from the road. The aqueduct can be found behind a gate across the road from the street that leads into the pueblo. Little else remains of the hacienda except a few adobe walls in the town.

In Part 3 of my 2012 Sierra del Tigre series, I show ex-Hacienda Toluquilla, and detail some of its 19th century history, along with how Concepción de Buenas Aires was founded on its lands. The hacienda was begun by Don Alonso de Ávalos, a captain under Conquistador Hernán Cortéz. The descendants of Ávalos eventually sold it to the Echuarri family, one of the three richest in Guadalajara during the 18th century. 

The Echuarris held it as part of a mayorazgo (entailed estate) for about 150 years from the beginning of the 18th century until 1853. A majorazgo was a hacienda (or collection of them) which couldn't be broken up but had to be passed intact to a designated heir. This was a strategy to avoid the fragmentation of estates that was a common problem during the colonial era. 

Among the various estates within the mayorazgo, the family also owned Hacienda San Francisco Javier, near Tizapan on Lake Chapala's South Shore, and Hacienda San Jose de Gracia, on the far side of the mountains that rim the South Shore. Both are sites that I have visited over the years.

How to get there. The route is fairly simple and requires about a 90 minute drive. The roads are all well-paved and quite good. Follow the road from Ajijic through Jocotopec to Highway 15. Then head to Tuxcueca on the South Shore, where you turn right on Highway 405 toward Mazamitla. 

After ascending the South Shore mountains, you descend into a valley where you turn right at the sign for Concepción de Buenos Aires. When you get there, you will see a large colorful sign on your right with the name of the town. Continue for another 7 blocks to Calle Constitución. Take a right and go 4 blocks to the Plaza Principal, also called the Jardin Central.

A town right out of a cowboy movie

A saddled horse waits patiently for its rider in the Plaza. This town could almost be a movie set for a Clint Eastwood western. I was reminded of one of those scenes where a gunfight is imminent and the whole town seems eerily empty. The word that always comes to my mind in describing Concepción de Buenos Aires is "pristine". 

Pillars line the arcade along Calle Constitución. Golden winter sunshine bathed the walls and streets, making for great photographic opportunities. The altitude of the town is 2126m (6975ft) which provides for a mild-to-cool year-round temperature. Light jackets or sweaters were all we needed in mid-December. The feel of a 19th century cowboy town was further enhanced by the almost complete lack of motor vehicles on the streets around the Plaza.

Calle Aquiles Serdan, looking west along the side of the Plaza. The mountains all around are thick with forests, so most of the pillars and rafters of the arcades around three sides of the Plaza are made from wood. Most of the buildings around the plaza and the area surrounding it are 1-2 stories, which helps maintain the old-fashioned feel of the place.

A small girl sits in the center of Calle Aquiles Serdan. She sat there for quite a long time, totally undisturbed by vehicle traffic of any sort. This underlined just how quiet the town was when we arrived. The church overlooking the Plaza is the Parroquia Inmaculada Concepción, devoted the the version the Virgin Mary who has the same title.

Calle Constitución, looking east toward Hotel Linda Vista. Only a single motor scooter and a couple of pedestrians break the spell of an old-west movie set.

Corner of Calle Constitución and Calle Ignacio Silva Romo. The old-fashioned building above is the Hotel Linda Vista. When I occasionally stay in a small Mexican town, I will often seek out an old hotel like this. The amenities are often limited, but the atmosphere is wonderfully antique. I have found the owners of such places always eager to tell stories about their hotel's history. Soon it is a case of "mi casa es su casa" (my house is your house).

Plaza Principal, also known as the Jardin Central. The Plaza is spacious, with lovely gardens, fountains, cast iron benches, and the almost obligatory kiosco (bandstand). As was the case everywhere else, it was virtually empty when we arrived.

Gathering for the Virgin of Guadalupe Parade

A motorcyclist passes under patriotic streamers on Calle Constitucíon. The colors are red, white, and green, the same as the Mexican national flag. The Virgin of Guadalupe is a political symbol in Mexico, along with her religious importance. In the distance, we could faintly hear a band playing so we decided to investigate. Mexicans often leave fiesta decorations up long after the celebration, so, at this point it still hadn't dawned on us that this was the 12th of December.

Ermita de la Virgen de Guadalupe. This elaborate monument sits in a small plaza at the south end of Calle Hidalgo, seven blocks south and one block east of the the Plaza. When we looked down the street toward the music, we could see more streamers and a small crowd of people, so we decided to walk down and investigate.

At the monument, charros were gathering for the parade. As soon as we saw the monument and the charro outfits, it dawned on us that we had stumbled into one of Mexico's annual Virgen de Guadalupe events. While vaqueros (cowboys), with their traditions and techniques, have been around since the Spanish Middle Ages, charros are a phenomenon that followed the Conquest of Mexico.

Ironically, although charros are respected and honored today, the term was once one of contempt. It used to mean uneducated, unpolished, rough, rustic, clownish, and ill-bred. The term probably originated from Arabic or possibly from the Spanish Basque term txar. 

It first appears in 1627 and it wasn't until 1803 that it began to have a more neutral meaning. The status of charro steadily improved during the 19th century, particularly during and after the War of Independence, when charros played key roles as mounted militia organized by hacienda owners to fight against insurgents and bandit gangs.

The distinctive charro outfit has become a symbol of Mexico. It is worn not only by horsemen, but mariachi bands and others seeking to invoke the tradition. The most obvious part of the charro outfit is the wide-brimmed sombrero. Its high crown and the up-turned edges of the broad rim are often embroidered. Tight-fitting shirts or jackets, along with tight pants, are often adorned with silver trimming. Tooled leather boots and jangling spurs complete the picture.

The man who legitimized charros more than any was Emperor Maximilian, who was installed by France between 1862-67. He both admired charro horsemanship and sought to ingratiate himself with the people. Later in the 19th century, the dictator Porfirio Diaz recruited charros into his rurales (rural police) to chase down bandits as well as workers fleeing debt-slavery on haciendas. The association with the rurales conveyed manhood, strength, and nationhood.  

A charro practices his rope work. The practical use of the rope is to capture and restrain cattle and horses. A skilled charro can do extraordinary things with a lariat, sometimes approaching ballet. Completing the charro image is the horse and its associated gear. 

Everything you see above was invented by the colonial Spanish and 19th century Mexicans long before the first Texan pulled on his spurs. American cowboys were truly "johnnies-come-lately" and borrowed virtually their entire tradition and technology from Mexico. You would probably never get them to admit it, though.

What is a Mexican fiesta without the local brass band? A saxophone player tunes up next to a drum. This was one of the fellows who had first attracted our attention. Usually, a band like this marches behind the charro delegation, playing earnestly, if sometimes off-key. The charros train their horses to dance to the music, creating a highly entertaining spectacle.

This completes Part 1 of my series on the fiesta at Concepción de Buenos Aires. In Part 2, we'll follow the parade as it makes its way to the Parroquia at the Plaza. I hope you have enjoyed Part 1 and, if so, you will leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

The historic sites of Haciendas de Corralejo & San Gregorio, in the Bajío Region of Guanajuato

Entrance to Hacienda San de Gregorio's courtyard. The view is toward the gate and through it to the street. The view from the street of the front of the casa grande reveals only the gate and the high casco wall and it was not very photogenic. Accordingly, all of my shots here are of the area within the casco, including the courtyard, the interior of the casa grande, and the ruins of the old bodega (barn) in the rear.

We visited this hacienda the same day we stopped at Hacienda Santa Ana Pacueco (see previous post). After Santa Ana Pacueco, we headed to San Gregorio, passing through the pueblo of Ex-Hacienda de Corralejo on the way. We didn't stop at Correlejo due to limited time, but it is an historic landmark that is worth a look. I include a photo and a little information about it below.

How to get to the area. To save space in this posting, I refer you to the directions given to Hacienda Santa Ana Pacueco, up to the point where you turn off Highway 110 onto the 90D cuota (toll road) which bypasses La Piedad to the north, heading toward Irapuato. Continue to a toll booth which marks the end of 90D and the beginning of Highway 90, a libre (non-toll) road. 

Highway 90 is a good road. It is 4-lane, divided, and high-speed, except as you pass through the town of Pénjamo. About 9km (6mi) past Pénjamo, look for a tall statue in the median strip on your left. About 200m (219yds) past the statue is a retorno (turn around) on your left. There, you reverse direction on Highway 90. Don't miss this turn or you will have to travel a considerable distance before you can cross the median again. 

Take your first right, opposite the statue. This is the road that will pass through the pueblo of Hacienda de Corralejo and continue on to the pueblo of San Gregorio. On the way to Hacienda de Corralego, you will pass through a small town called Estación Corralejo with a facility making Tequila Hacienda de Corralego. This is not the pueblo with the ex-hacienda, which is still about 4km (2.5mi) further on. 

Near the entrance of the actual pueblo of Hacienda de Corralego, the road takes a dog-leg turn to the left. This is the historic site, where you will see a small church and some low ruined walls. After your visit, continue on the same road to San Gregorio. The town has two entrances, but the second (western) entrance is better marked. To help you find the Hotel Hacienda de San Gregorio, here is a Googe map. You can expand this Google interactive map to examine any portion of the route.

Ex-Hacienda de Corralejo

Parroquia del Señor de la Misericordia and the historic ruins. The church used to be the capilla (chapel). The Correlejo hacienda was founded in 1566 by Don Alonso de Angulo y Montesino. I have little information about him except that while living in Michoacan in 1554, he paid Ximón Rodríguez "500 gold pesos, due to the purchase of a black slave named Cristóbal, from the land of Zape, and 12 horses, 9 saddled…" During the 141 years after its founding, the estate grew into one of the largest in western Mexico. 

Inventories from the early 18th century* show that, between 1707 and 1728, Hacienda de Corralego owned 41 sitios de ganado major (for cattle, horses), 26 sitios de ganado minor (for sheep, pigs, goats) and 28 1/2 caballerias (farmland for wheat, corn). All this totaled a whopping 233,000 acres, stretching over parts of today's Guanajuato, Michoacan, and Jalisco states. An assessment in 1707 valued the property at 68,567 pesos. The hacienda also owned 14 mulatto slaves valued at 3,330 pesos.

In 1657, the Alcocer family acquired the property and held it until 1707, by which time it was heavily in debt. So heavily, in fact, that the Alcocers owed 2,768 pesos in back pay to their 28 shepherds and 8,725 pesos to other workers. Even worse, they had taken loans from the Church for 72,834 pesos, more than the estate was worth. The 1707 assessment was part of a sale to an absentee owner, who then hired a series of professional administrators to run the place. 

By 1728, the new administrators had increased the sheep herd to 24,000, the cattle to 2,700, and brood mares to 2,250. The presence of 85 oxen indicates an increase in cultivated land. In the middle of the 18th century, one of these administrators was a man named Cristóbal Hidalgo y Costilla. Between 1759 and 1761, he built the Parroquia shown above, a remarkably quick project for the time. 

Previous to this project, Cristóbal had married Ana Maria Gallaga. In 1753, a son was born to them in the casa grande. His parents named him Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and he later became a priest. On September 15, 1810, it was his grito (cry for revolt) on the steps of his church in the pueblo of Dolores that launched the Mexican war for independence from Spain. The fact that the Father of Mexican Independence was born and raised here gives the site its historic significance.

*Haciendas and Ranchos in the Mexican Bajio, D.A. Brading, Cambridge University Press, London, 1978. Pages 22-24

Hotel Ex-Hacienda de San Gregorio

Exterior

Google satellite view of the hacienda's casco and adjacent field. The buildings within the casco wall include the casa grande in the upper left with the red-tiled roof, a work area behind it with a row of pillars on the right. The large field to the right, with the red marker, was once possibly an orchard or food garden for the household or perhaps a pasture for the horses.

This hacienda was founded in 1580 and, compared to Santa Ana Pacueco and Corralejo, it grew slowly and appears to have remained relatively small, at least during its first 150 years or so. By 1718, the estate possessed only 2 sitios de ganado major and 2 caballerias for a total of 8,778 acres. The reasons for this are unclear because the records from this early period are sparse.

Arcade to the right of the entrance gate. (Photo from Hotel ex-Hacienda San Gregorio website) The entrance gate gives access to the central courtyard, which has arcades supported by pillars on three of its sides. The doors along this side open into bedrooms. This would be a lovely spot to enjoy breakfast or an afternoon drink. 

Despite the hacienda's relatively small size, dramatic events involving two colorful but very different characters occurred on its property during the Mexican War of Independence. 

The first character was a young officer named Javier Mina. He is honored by a street named after him near my condo in Ajijic. At a young age, Mina  became a general in the insurgent army fighting the Spanish. Martín Francisco Javier Mina y Larrea was born in 1789, the year the French Revolution began. The ramifications and aftershocks of that great convulsion shaped his short 28-year life. 

The son of a wealthy farmer in Navarre, Spain, Mina began to study law in Zaragoza at the age of 18 and became an attorney. The French Revolution was an exciting period in history and he absorbed many of its ideals. However, by 1808, all that had devolved into tyranny under Napoleon Bonaparte.

Jerry, one of our Hacienda Hunters, photographs the courtyard. The casa grande was built in classic colonial style. The single-story rectangular structure faces inward to the courtyard. The four sides contain the kitchen, dining room, and various living areas including bedrooms. All are accessed from the courtyard. The mountain peak jutting over the wall in the background is part of the Sierra de Pénjamo, which contains hiking trails and historic sites like Fuerte de los Remedios and Cueva de Padre Torres.

In 1808, Napoleon decided to invade his erstwhile ally Spain, depose its king, and install his own brother Joseph on the throne. This resulted in a fierce Spanish insurgency against the usurper. From this struggle, the term guerrilla war was created. 

The young lawyer Javier Mina soon raised an insurgent force of over 1,200 infantry and 150 cavalry. With them, he harassed the French forces for two years until 1810, when he was captured and imprisoned in France. When Napoleon's government collapsed in 1814, Mina was finally released.  

This lovely old fountain is one of the courtyard's highlights. Such fountains are another classic feature of Mexican haciendas. In the early years, a courtyard like this would have been a work area for the domestic servants. Later, in the 19th century, casa grande courtyards were often transformed into gardens where the hacendado (owner) and his family could relax. The pattern of stones in the grass suggests that the courtyard may have once been fully cobblestoned.

While Mina was imprisoned, things had changed in Spain. King Ferdinand VII (son of the king deposed by Napoleon) had abolished the democratic government set up to oppose the usurper Joseph and re-imposed absolute monarchy. Mina participated in an abortive plot against Ferdinand, but had to flee to France when it was discovered. He then traveled to England, where he was recruited to join the independence movement that had begun under Hidalgo in 1810.

Hacienda Hunters explore one of the courtyard's arcades. This arcade runs along the side of the courtyard that is parallel to the front of the hacienda. The doorways along it open into bedrooms. The arcade itself provides an open living area for guests.

In 1816, the young insurgent leader traveled to Baltimore, in the United States. There, he was encouraged and financed by Spanish and American merchants who hoped to profit from an independent Mexico. In April 1817, Mina arrived in Tamaulipas, Mexico. He was now a general of the insurgency and led a force of 250 men made up largely of ex-officers from all sides in the Napoleonic Wars. Mina intended to join insurgent leader Guadalupe Victoria in southern Mexico, but did not get beyond the area of the Bajio region.  

Some of the arcade's decorations. An antique birdcage stands beside the winged and sword-brandishing statue of Archangel Michael. Decorations with religious themes are common in Mexican haciendas. Catholicism dominated life in the colonial and early Republic eras, particularly in the rural areas. The Reform War (1858-61), the Mexican Revolution (1910-17), and the Cristero War (1926-29), have greatly diminished the power of Mexico's Church, but it still plays a significant role in daily life.

While he had had some success using guerilla tactics in Spain and Mexico, Mina was generally unsuccessful in more conventional warfare. He was besieged by Spanish regular troops in the insurgent stronghold near Léon known as Fuerte Sombrero (Hat Fort), but escaped before it finally fell to the Spanish. 

Interior

The dining room has a large table with seating for at least ten. The red-tile floor is still another traditional feature. Tile floors are easier to sweep and mop than those of wood or covered by rugs. Such dining rooms were used to entertain guests and as meeting places for business or political affairs.

After the fall of Fuerte Sombrero, Mina attempted to relieve the siege of another insurgent fortresss, the Fuerte de los Remedios (Fort of the Remedies). The remains of this stronghold stand in the Sierra de Penjamo on lands once belonging to Hacienda de San Gregorio. They are about 2 km (1.2mi) from the casa grande and are accessible today by hiking trail.

The execution of General Javier Mina. Unfortunately, Javier Mina's attempt to drive the Spanish away from Fuerte de los Remedios was unsuccessful. He was captured in October of 1817 and taken to Silao, near the city of Guanajuato. However, Mina was soon returned to Pascual Liñán, the commander of the Spanish forces besieging Fuerte de los Remedios. 

Hoping to demoralize the defenders, Liñán executed Mina by firing squad within sight of the fort. The insurgents continued to hold out, but two months later the stronghold fell. Some of the defenders surrendered, while others escaped. The dramatic death of  Francisco Javier Mina y Larrea ended his heroic and tempestuous life and established Hacienda de San Gregorio's connection to the history of Independencia.

Along one side of the dining room is a large sideboard/buffet. In the background is the entrance into a kitchen that looks capable of serving up quite a feast. Notice the antique clock on the wall with the Roman numerals for time markers.

Among those who escaped the fall of Fuerte de los Remedios was the other character who figures in the area's history and in one of its grisly legends. Padre José Antonio Torres (1770-1819) was one of the warrior-priests who, like Hidalgo, were attracted to the independence movement and rose in it as leaders. He should not be confused with another insurgent leader of the same name, but who was not a priest. 

Sitting room fireplace. This space was part of a suite entered from one of the arcades along the courtyard walls. Arranged around the curve of the fireplace chimney are various small tools typical of those used by hacienda blacksmiths for attending to the hooves of horses. Little touches like this provide a lot a character to the old casa grande.

Padre Torres was entirely unlike Javier Mina, almost a polar opposite. To begin with, Torres was a criollo (Spanish, but born in the Mexico), while Mina was a peninsulare (born in Spain and therefore socially superior). Torres had never traveled the world, like Mina, but lived his life entirely in Guanajuato and Michoacan. 

He was older than Mina and managed to outlive him, but not by much. Torres was also disobedient, treacherous, greedy, and murderous. In short, he lacked the noble ideals and heroism so prominent in Javier Mina. His death, unlike Mina's, was not one of great drama, but sordid and almost trivial. 

Bedrooms are simple but comfortable. Their decorations match the hacienda style. This must be a room meant for families, given the second bed. I have noticed this in many haciendas, both those kept as museums and those converted into boutique hotels. Mexicans, who tend to have larger families than those living north of the border, usually travel together and often all sleep in the same room.

During Torres' work at the vicarage of Cuitzeo de Porvenir in Michoacan, Hidalgo's revolt broke out. The padre soon joined the insurgent movement and began campaigning in Michoacan and around Pénjamo in Guanajuato. Like Mina and other insurgent commanders, Torres had some success against the Spanish with guerrilla tactics, but usually failed when he tried to take on royalist forces in conventional warfare. 

Some of his guerrilla actions appear to have been little more than banditry but, in fairness, the line between insurgency and banditry was pretty thin in this period. Torres was known--and hated--for sacking and burning ranches and smaller towns like Yuricuaro. He had learned to target them because they were the easiest targets for supplies and loot.

Rear area

The back wall of the casa grande, facing the enclosed work area.  Like the courtyard, the surface of this space appears to have been completely cobblestoned at one time. When the hacienda was a functioning ranch/farm, this work area would have been heavily used, often during the rainy season. The cobblestones helped avoid excessive mud.

Torres set up his headquarters at Fuerte de los Remedios, and began attacking the Spanish. When Javier Mina and other leaders arrived in the area, Torres traveled to Fuerte Sombrero to meet with them. He agreed to cede command to Mina and support him, but did not actually comply. Instead of cutting off Spanish supply routes to relieve the siege of Fuerte Sombrero, Torres confronted the royalists in an open battle and was defeated, forcing the fort's abandonment.

Pillars line one side of the work area. These would have supported the roof of either a bodega (barn) or possibly a stable for the hacendado's horses. I have visited enough haciendas to be able to fairly accurately identify the uses of some of these spaces, according to their location and current appearance. However, other areas often present a complete mystery.

After his disastrous loss of Fuerte Sombrero, Torres then retreated to his stronghold at Fuerte de los Remedios, but was besieged by Pascual Liñán. In spite of Torres disobedience at Fuerte Sombrero, Javier Mina attempted to come to his rescue at Los Remedios, but was defeated, captured, and executed. When Los Remedios finally fell, Torres was among those who escaped. According to local legend, he took along mules loaded with bars of gold.

 

The casco wall shows two layers of construction. The outer layer is stone and probably a product of the 19th century. Behind it is the old adobe wall, possibly dating back to the 16th century. Many haciendas contain sections built centuries ago. During periodic renovations and updates, the old adobe structures were not torn down but simply covered over by stone, brick, or plaster. Inspecting the ruins of an older hacienda is like doing an architectural autopsy.

The legend about Torres' escape with the gold also says he murdered the men with him and either buried the gold or dumped it over a ravine along with the bodies. For many years, local treasure hunters have searched for the gold without success. 

What is not legend is that he lured his lieutenant Lucas Flores to a card game and then ordered his summary execution because Flores had tried and failed to bring supplies to Los Remedios during the siege. At another time, Torres executed a prominent political rival named Remigio Yarza without just cause. 

The Hacienda Hunters with our hosts, the owners. The older gentleman in the center wearing a red sweater and blue jacket is Señor Antonio Alcocer. His wife Señora Pimenta is on the far left. They were very kind and welcoming and eagerly showed us around their beautiful place. Señor Antonio speaks some English and we were able to communicate, particularly since some in our party were fluent in Spanish.

Padre Torres continued to loot and burn local towns and ranches, making enemies among fellow insurgents as well as the royalists. His excesses finally spurred his supporters to change their loyalty to Juan Arago, a Spaniard who had followed Javier Mina to join the insurgency. Torres refused to accept this and joined with another group known as Los Panchones. They seem to have been particularly thuggish, which probably suited Torres' tastes.

On New Year's Day, 1819, Torres was killed rather ignominiously by Capitán Juan Manuel Zamora in a dispute over a card game. Torres had refused to surrender a horse left as security for a bet and the furious Capitán ran him through with a spear. Zamora himself was then killed by one of Los Panchones. Thus ended the career of Padre José Antonio Torres. His activities at Fuerte los Remedios, actual or legendary, add to the fascinating history of Hacienda de San Gregorio.

This completes my posting on Haciendas de Corralejo and San Gregorio. I hope you enjoyed the photos and stories. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question remember to include your email address so that I may respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim