Beach towns of the Central Pacific Coast: Chacala

Most of Chacala's short crescent beach has gently sloping sand. Only on the south end does it become more rocky. We have visited Chacala a number of times over the years and its serenity and rustic charm has made it one of our favorites. The little beach town is a bit like Sayulita, before that place got "loved to death" by the folks with money and became overrun with expensive beach homes, condos, and boutique shops. 

Chacala may have (so far) avoided this fate because it is relatively remote from Puerto Vallarta. Thus, it has largely escaped the notice of those who jet in from afar, seeking resort destinations that have all the comforts and conveniences of home. Perhaps Chacala will undergo changes similar to Sayulita in the future. For now, it retains the slightly down-at-the-heels quality and off-the-beaten-track charm that Carole and I like.  

Chacala's nearest neighbor of any size is the town of Las Varas. The coast road between Rincon de Guayabitos and Chacala stretches 29.8km (18.5mi), about a 40 minute drive. Just before reaching Las Varas, look for a sign that says "Playa Chacala" and then turn left at the Oxxo convenience store. A well-paved two-lane road winds through 11.8km (7.3mi) of coastal jungle and enters Chacala from the south.

The town's two main streets parallel the shore and are bisected by several short streets. Walking at a brisk pace, you could probably cover the whole "downtown" in 15 minutes or so. There are a number places selling nicknacks and other shops that sell or rent gear for swimmers, snorkelers, divers, and those favoring boogie or surfboards. 

The southern portion of the beach is scattered with large rocks. However, near the waterline, the sand is smooth and walking is easy. Only a couple of people strolled the beach during the late morning when I took this shot. You'll likely encounter more folks than this at the northern part of the crescent, but it would still be a stretch call that area crowded. 

Where the southern end of the shore turns out toward the point, the beach mostly disappears and the steep jungled slope comes right down to the water. In the upper left quadrant of the photo you can see a light colored structure built into the cliff (just above and slightly to the left of the figure on beach). That is the subject of my next photo.

One of the more unusual homes you will find in Chacala. The builder constructed the house as a series of steps from the rocky shore up the mountainside. Whoever lives there had better have good knees! Also, since the Pacific Coast of Mexico is subject to the occasional tsunami, the occupant had better hope s/he is in one of the upper levels when the wave arrives.

Most of the hotels and rental bungalows are located in the town. Few if any structures here have more than four stories. This provides a welcome relief from the glass and steel towers that dominate Puerto Vallarta. The structures along the beach are called palapas. Roofed with palm-fronds, their floors are beach sand. One of the main reasons we find Chacala so attractive is its human scale.

An RV park nestles in a palm grove just south of town. I'm not sure what hook-ups or other services are available here. Since I don't own an RV, I didn't think to inquire. However, this being Mexico, I'm pretty sure the charges are modest and whatever is not available here can be obtained a short walk down the beach. The folks who own the vehicle above seem to have settled in nicely.

Another alternative: sleep on your sailboat. We saw several sailboats in the small bay. This one was anchored next to the line of boulders that marks the shoreline along the northern point of the crescent. There is no beach along here, since the steep hill comes right down to the water. Some people have built houses along the top of the point, but they are relatively secluded in the vegetation.

 

What to do in Chacala?

Boogie boarders frolic in the surf. Chacala has gentle surf and the water is usually calm. Big-wave surfers should probably look elsewhere. However these conditions are great for boogie boarders, swimmers, snorkelers, and those who just want to get wet to cool off. 

Playing in the sand can also be entertaining. Beach sand seems to have a special attraction for small children and dogs. This little girl has nestled herself into some cool moist sand as she considers her next move. 

Running, jumping, and digging in loose sand are among the favorite activities of canines, as well as kids. I have seen dogs vigorously digging on the beach just for the sheer joy of making the sand fly.

Rocks along the shore inspire those with artistic inclinations. Got time on your hands on a slow day? Here's an entertaining possibility that only requires a bit of patience and imagination and no cost at all. You may even find your masterpiece enshrined in a blog like mine.

There's always seating available under these open-air palapas. While there are restaurants on some of the streets in town, the best dining experience--in my opinion--will be found in the large palapas that line the northern section of the beach. With the surf gently rolling in a few yards away, you can eat fresh seafood and sip on a cold margarita.

And, speaking of margaritas... It's hard to beat the cool shade of a beach palapa on a hot afternoon. As you gaze out over the blue Pacific toward the far horizon, you may find yourself "Wastin' away in Margaritaville". Jimmy Buffet would feel right at home here. My guess is, you would too.

This completes my posting on Chacala and my series on Mexico's Central Pacific Coast beaches. I hope you have enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question, please include your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

Central Pacific Coast beach towns: La Peñita de Jaltemba & Punta Mita

 

The malecon of La Peñita de Jaltemba was serenely quiet. A malecon is a paved walkway along a seashore or lake. Even though it is mid-day, we could see only one person on either the malecon or the beach. Unlike Rincon de Guayabitos, just to the south, La Peñita's waterfront wasn't thronged with tourists, at least not when we were there. Although we enjoyed Guayabitos, it was a bit of a relief to get a break from its hustle and bustle.

This is the second of a three-part series on beach towns along Mexico's Central Pacific Coast. This time, we'll visit La Peñita and Punta Mita, two relatively quiet resort towns. Like Guayabitos, La Peñita attracts middle and working class Mexican families. Punta Mita, in contrast, is more up-scale (and more expensive). This is probably due to its proximity to nearby Puerta Vallarta.

Map showing La Peñita, just north of Guayabitos. The two towns are separated by Arroyo Guinea, a river that extends from just east of Highway 200 to the shore. Stone breakwaters extend out into the bay on either side of the mouth of the arroyo. Home to a bit more than 9,000 residents, La Peñita is the largest of the three towns along the shore of Bahia Jaltemba. 

This area of Mexico's coast gets 320 days of sunshine a year. The best time to visit is between November and May, when the temperature ranges from 25C-29C (78F-85F). Between June and October, the temperature can skyrocket with sweltering humidity.

Looking south from the malecon. Again, the beach is empty and serene. In the distance you can see one of the stone breakwaters at the mouth of Arroyo Guinea. The beach directly in front of town is 1.5km (1 mi) long, with calm water and light surf. At the northern end is a rocky point, but beyond that El Playón Beach stretches out for five beautiful miles with little development.

According to local legend, the town was founded by Mexicas  (Aztecs). They paused here for a bit during their 13th century AD migration from their ancestral home of Mexcaltitán, on their way to Lago de Texcoco in the Valley of Mexico. 

Beach combing produces another stranded fish. We came across this large, silvery fish with a forked tail. A friend who is an avid fisherman suggested that it is part of the tuna family, possibly a Black Tuna. If there are any ichthyologists out there who can shed any light on this, I'd be glad to hear from you.  The tracks around the carcass indicate that one of the local dogs has also been investigating.

A statue of a dolphin and her calf adorns the town's small plaza. In the background, the kiosco (bandstand) has an unusual white dome, topped with a more traditional tile roof.  While the malecon and beach were virtually empty, there was considerably more activity along Avenida Emiliano Zapata, La Penita's main street. It runs perpendicular to the shore, from Highway 200 all the way to the malecon. Along it, one can find many shops, and restaurants.

Punta Mita

A paddle boarder rides the surf. I got a number of shots of this fellow, but the one with the swooping pelican was the most dramatic. Paddle boarding is only one of the many water-related activities available at Punta Mita. Swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, boogie boarding, surfing, fishing, sailboating, and yacht-cruising were among the many others. Our choice was a leisurely stroll along the beach.

Punta Mita is a point of land that looks like the head of a vulture. The largely private 1,500 acre point is located 16km (10mi) north of Puerto Vallarta and is 47km (29mi) south of Guayabitos. The access road to Punta Mita is located where Highway 200 takes a sharp right-hand turn toward the northeast.

There are a number of wealthy developments on the point and many coves with small beaches. We visited one of these at the small town of Corral del Risco (Cliff Corral) located on the southern shore of the point. To zoom in with a Google map, click here.

About half of the cove is covered with small rocks. The southern end has more sand, as does the beach just to the north. There are a number of establishments covered with palapa (palm frond) roofs lining the shore. These offer meals and other amenities. At the time we visited, the beach was nearly as empty of visitors as the one at La Peñita.

This palapa restaurant was part of the hotel next door. Another popular activity is to hang out under the shade of a beach umbrella while drinking large goblets of Margaritas. A tough job, but somebody has to do it. 

Boogie and surf boards are available to rent at this place. I didn't check, but I assume other water gear like flippers, masks, and snorkels can also be rented inside. If not here, it wouldn't be hard to find them someplace nearby.

A small launch and a large yacht each ride at anchor off shore. They reminded me of the "Mutt and Jeff" characters in an old comic strip. The launch would be more in line with my bank account. Notice the Brown Pelican perching on the outboard motor of the launch. These birds immediately assume ownership when people are not around.

This completes my posting on La Peñita de Jaltemba and Punta Mita. I hope you have enjoyed it. Next time, we'll head north from Guayabitos to Chacala, another beautiful and relatively uncrowded spot. If you would like to leave any thoughts or questions, please do so in the Comments section below or email me directly.

Hasta luego, Jim

Beach towns of the Central Pacific Coast: Rincon de Guayabitos

Golden afternoon sun bathes the palm-fringed shoreline. This is the northern end of Rincon de Guayabitos. Behind the palms are small hotels and homes. All along the shore of the Central Pacific Coast of Mexico, there are a number of beach towns located in the bays and coves. In past years, I have posted stories about some of the better-known towns including Manzanillo, Barra de Navidad and Melaque, Puerto Vallarta, San Blas, and Mazatlan. 

In this series, we'll visit some of the smaller places that lie between Puerto Vallarta in the south and San Blas in the north. This first post will focus on Rincon de Guayabitos, (or simply Guayabitos, as it is often called). Future parts of this series will take a look at the other beach towns of Punta Mita, La Peñita de Jaltemba, and Chacala. All of these beach towns are smaller, quieter, and less overrun by foreign tourists than their better-known counterparts. Each of them is worth a visit.

Overview

Map of the coast from Puerto Vallarta to Chacala. For some unknown reason, this Google map shows Rincon de Guayabitos as Rincon de Nayarit. However, when you zoom in on Google, the correct name appears. Punta Mita is at the tip of the point extending out just north of Puerto Vallarta, near the town of Corral de Risco. The distance from Guayabitos to Punta Mita is 47km (29mi).  

La Peñita de Jaltemba is not shown on the map above unless you zoom with Google. It adjoins Guayabitos just to the north. Chacala is located in a small bay at the top of the map, about 30km (18mi) north of Guayabitos. Highway #200 is the coast road that connects all these beach towns. Although the distances may appear fairly short, the highway is two-lane and winding, so traffic can be slow. However, you are on vacation so enjoy the scenery.

Rugged, heavily forested mountains stand just back of the coastal plain. In some areas, the mountain slopes extend right down to the sea. These formations are part of the Sierra Madre Occidental, one of Mexico's two great north-to-south ranges. 

The mountains crowd the shore closely, leaving the Central Pacific Coast with few really long beaches. Instead, the coast is a series of bays and coves of various sizes, separated by steep points of land that extend out into the ocean. This separates and isolates the beach towns, providing each place with a sense of uniqueness. 

Fishing boats rock gently in the southern end of the bay. Local fishermen sell their catch to Guayabitos' many restaurants. This means that fresh fish is on the menu almost everywhere. I took this photo at the rincón ("corner") where the shore turns sharply to the west, ending in the point of land that defines the southern boundary of the bay. 

Rincon de Guayabitos is Spanish for "Corner of the Small Guava Trees". Most of the developed part of the town extends inland for several blocks from the shore. The southern end begins at the rincón, and runs north along the coast for a couple of kilometers to the point of land that separates Guayabitos from its close neighbor, La Peñita de Jaltemba. 

A stroll along the beach

A Mexican family lounges under beach umbrellas.  In the background stands Hotel Torre Blanca, one of the town's more upscale hotels. However, there is a wide variety of accommodations in Guayabitos, suitable for almost any budget. 

Carole and I stayed at the mid-range Hotel Costa Alegre, a very comfortable "all-inclusive" place, popular with Mexican families. Like the Torre Blanca, our hotel overlooked the beach and we had a third floor room in the center with an expansive view of the bay.

Beach vendors are popular with both people and pelicans. Brown pelicans have learned that they can often grab a quick snack without the trouble of diving for fish. They seem quite unconcerned with their close proximity to the human customers. 

Although I have occasionally seen a pelican try to steal a bit of food from an unwary vendor, usually the big birds wait politely for their handouts. They will, however, freely squabble among themselves. Brown pelicans are among the more entertaining creatures you will encounter along the coast.

Isla del Coral is an island about one mile off shore. The limestone dome is surrounded by a coral reef that teems with fish and birdlife. The island is only about a ten minute trip by launch and has become very popular with the snorkel and scuba set. You can rent snorkel equipment and there are diving instructors on the island for those who want to visit the underwater world. We didn't have time to visit Isla del Coral, but it's on my list for a future trip.

A fisherman wades ashore with his catch of the day. He anchored his boat in waste-deep water a few yards offshore. His single fish is likely destined for his family table, rather than a restaurant kitchen. Mexican fishermen are a friendly and hospitable lot. I have never been refused a photo of them displaying their catch of the  day. 

A Row of flags stands in front of some palapa restaurants. I was amused by the selection of banners. From the left: the Canadian national flag, the Alaskan State flag, a Harley Davidson banner, a flag for Pilsner Beer, and the Mexican national flag. Why that particular collection, in that order, is still a mystery to me.

Cotton candy vendor displaying his wares. Mexican beach towns attract lots of wandering vendors. Some visitors consider this a problem and would like them controlled or even banned. However, I am usually sympathetic to their efforts. Everyone has to make a living and one of the harder ways is to haul your goods up and down the beach all day under a hot sun. If I am not interested in their wares, all it usually takes is a polite "no, gracias" and they move on.

A Porcupinefish bristles with the spikes that give it the name. We encountered it as we were strolling along the tide line. This species of Porcupinefish (Diodon hystrix) is one of seven species of Diodon, four of which can be found in Mexican waters. 

When threatened by a predator, it inflates its body which causes the sharp spines to point out in all directions. These are defensive mechanisms to ward off dorados, sharks, wahoos and other predators. In addition to being sharp, the spines can contain a potent neurotoxin called tetrodotoxin. We kept a respectful distance.

Watching the shore Birds watch us

A Brown Pelican looks me over with a rather disapproving eye. They are graceful while soaring through the air or paddling over the water's surface. On land these pelicans are comical, often reminding me of Charlie Chaplin as they waddle about. They will often flap their wings, squawk. and push aside other pelicans to get at a tidbit of food. 

Pelecanus occidentalis can be found on Mexico's Pacific, Atlantic, and Gulf Coasts. The one above appears to be a juvenile because it lacks the white or yellowish head that adults have. Brown Pelicans are resident (nonmigratory) birds who are very gregarious and like living in flocks. When feeding, they glide along in the air just above the water. Upon spotting a fish, they will go through a complicated set of aerial maneuvers to gain altitude and then dive straight down into the water.

A Snowy Egret stands in the shallows with a small fish in its beak. I have often seen these birds (Egretta thula) fishing in the shallows of Lake Chapala, near where I live. However, they can most often be found along the seashore. While hunting for prey, the Snowy Egret will wade slowly and cautiously in a few inches of water. Suddenly, the bird's neck will stretch out and its sharp bill will dart into the water. Quite often they are successful, like this one. 

The Egret will maneuver the fish in its beak into position, then throw back its head and swallow. I once saw an Egret try to do this with a small snake. While attempting the usual maneuver, the Egret was surprised to find that the snake had wrapped its body tightly around the bird's bill. The snake couldn't get away, but the Egret couldn't swallow it, creating a classic Mexican Standoff! I had to move along, so I never found out who won.

A Willet hunts for lunch while standing on one leg. At first, I thought the Willet (Catoptrophorus inornata) had become disabled or had lost its other leg to a predator. However, while researching shorebirds, I found a photo of a whole flock, each standing on one leg. Apparently the other leg is drawn up under the belly feathers in order to conserve body heat. This process is called "rete mirabile". 

The Willet is one of many species of Sandpipers. These birds are found along the shore, just inland from the waves. They poke their beaks into the wet sand or mud, looking for small mollusks and other invertebrates. The Willet is migratory, breeding in the prairie provinces of Canada and the Northern US and wintering along the Pacific shore as far south as South America.

A Frigatebird glides along the beach. Also called the Man o' War, Fregata magnificens is found in tropical and subtropical waters off the Americas from northern Mexico to Peru. This one is a female, because the males have a red sac under their throats that they inflate as a display during mating season. 

Frigatebirds catch prey like flying fish on the surface of the sea. At times, they may engage in the nefarious practice of kleptoparasitism--harassing other birds in order to force them to regurgitate their food. Christopher Columbus noted this practice in his journal when he visited the Cape Verde islands on his 1492 Voyage of Discovery.

Things to do

The Barco Fiesta Guayobitos tour boat is anchored offshore. The small launch behind it ferries tourists to and from the bigger boat. Be advised that Barco Fiesta Guayobitos is a "party boat". It attracts large numbers of young people who enjoy loud music, dancing, and drinking. However, it also offers excursions to observe migrating whales during that season.

Ride on a "banana boat" while being pulled by a powerful jet boat. Passengers sit one behind the other on the inflated sausage and hold on to the handles. Part of the fun is being launched into the water at full speed when you hit a wave. This is not for the faint of heart or those afraid of getting wet.

Go fly a kite. These can be purchased at various stores in town. Since there is usually a breeze along the beach, getting one of these launched shouldn't be too difficult. Getting it down from on top of a tall palm tree might be more problematic.

Say "¡hola!"to the locals while you stroll along the beach. Although there are rocky spots like the one above, most of the beach is smooth sand. However, be careful during the middle of a sunny day. The sand can scorch your soles if you are unwary, long before you can get to the water's edge.

Stop for a cold one at a bar called "La Ultima Parada". Located right at the rincon, "The Last Stop" bar is, indeed, the last place advertising a drink on the way out to the point. Actually, the place looked a bit deserted and forlorn when we came by, and I'm not certain it was still open for business. Still, I liked the name.

Just lie back on the sand and let the water lap over you. This is the beach version of being a couch potato. A father and his young daughter were enjoying themselves in this fashion as we  passed by. It's certainly a good a way to deal with the mid-day heat.

Hang out with goblets of margaritas while watching the sunset. These can be spectacular at times (both the margaritas and the sunsets). Above, the sun is just about to drop behind the point of land at the southern end of the bay.

This completes the first part of my Central Coast beach series. Next time, we'll visit La Peñita de Jaltemba, just north of Guayabitos. I hope you enjoyed this posting. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below, or email me directly. If you leave a question in the Comments section, please include your email address so that I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim