Lake Chapala's South Shore revisited - Tizapan el Alto and Mismaloya

A Great White Egret perches at the top of a spindly tree at the water's edge. Great Whites abound along Lake Chapala's shoreline. They are one of two species regularly encountered, the other being the Snowy Egret. The Great White Egret is the larger of the two. They are both year-round residents of this Mexican lake, unlike the White Pelicans I will show later in this posting. On December 20 of 2024, I led a group of fellow expats over to visit some interesting sites on the south shore of Lake Chapala. 

First, we stopped at a couple of old haciendas located in Tizapan and checked out the interior of the church on the town's plaza. Afterward, we lunched at a restaurant called Mirador del Marinero (Sailor's Lookout). The restaurant is located in Mismaloya, a fishing village a few miles west of Tizapan along the shore. Before we departed Mismaloya, we went down to the water's edge to enjoy the antics of large flocks of White Pelicans. It was a gorgeous winter's day, the kind made for a trip like this.

Overview

Google satellite map showing our route to Tizapan. We took the carretera (highway) from Ajijic to Jocotopec on the western tip of the Lake, then turned south and east along Carretera #15. Once on the south shore highway, traffic is typically light, except when passing through the pueblo of San Luis Soyatlan, where the very narrow street creates somewhat of a bottleneck. About 4 km (3 mi) before reaching Tizapan, the highway passes above Mismaloya along a high bluff. Just off the road to the left, overlooking the Lake, is the Mirador del Marinero restaurant.

Ex-Hacienda Santa Ana

The ruins of the old casa grande are all that is left of ex-Hacienda Santa Ana. In the Google satellite view above, the top of the photo is north. It shows a structure that must have been quite large at one time. Now, only the casa grande's ruined, unroofed walls remain. The property is surrounded on three sides by modern structures. To find it, we followed the highway through Tizapan until we had reached the town's eastern outskirts. 

Highway #15 runs from left (west) to right (east) just above the top of the photo. From the highway, we spotted a large arch (top left of photo) off to our right over the entrance to a street called Calle Jalisco. The sign on the arch says "Fraccionamiento Hacienda de Santa Ana". Turning right (south) off the highway, we headed up the street, passing under the arch. The casa grande's ruins were immediately visible on our left. For an interactive Google map, click here.

The casa grande's main entrance is framed in brick. The walls extending to the north and south on either side are adobe. This (west) side of the structure is difficult to access, because there is a barbed wire fence along the street that parallels the front and there is no gate. However, I discovered that taking the first left turn off Calle Jalisco, and then the next two lefts, we could circle around to the unfenced east side of the casa grande. The ruins were full of brush and rubble, so long pants and good walking shoes or boots were essential. Because we often have no idea of what conditions we will find, we always prepare for anything. 

Hillary explores one of the central rooms. This was her first Hacienda Hunt, but she is an experienced hiker so she did just fine. The walls of the room around Hillary are mostly adobe, but the one along the east side was built with rough stone. I have been unable (so far) to discover much information about ex-Hacienda Santa Ana. The only historical mention I have found is that it existed in 1825. However, a lot can be surmised by the materials used in its construction.

For the first 150 years or so of the colonial period, adobe and rough stone were the primary construction materials. Beginning in the 17th and into the 18th centuries, cut stone and clay bricks were increasingly employed. From the late 18th through the early 20th centuries, manufactured clay brick was widely used. However, there is considerable overlap in these timelines. For example, adobe is still being used in some places in Mexico. I have found only a handful of late 19th and early 20th century haciendas where wood was the primary material and these structures were casas grandes that were not built in the classic style. 

Remains of an interior hallway and a door that opens into an adjacent room. These structures can be seen in the Google Satellite photo at the south end of the casa grande.  As with the main entrance, the doorway above is framed with brick, while the walls are adobe. The ruins suggest to me that the casa grande may have been  constructed much earlier than 1825, possibly in the 18th or even the late 17th century. Additions and modifications were likely made over the next 200-300 years. Just as I can't tell precisely when it was built, I also have no information about when it was abandoned, nor about its owners.

Adobe has been used for centuries because it is easy to make and cheap. The only raw materials needed are dirt and water, with straw as a binder. Wood molds are packed with the mixture and left to dry in the sun. All these materials are free and readily available nearly everywhere. The only cost is for the labor. In the earlier centuries, forced labor by native people or African slaves could be used. Even after the early 19th century, when slavery was abolished in Mexico, labor costs were minimal. The Revolution raised labor costs somewhat, but adobe remains a cheap building material for those with limited funds but strong backs.

Templo de San Francisco de Asis, Tizapan 

Atrium and facade of the Templo de San Francisco de Asis. The twin towers are reputed to be the tallest in the Lake Chapala area. Construction began on the Templo in 1836 and was finally completed in 1905. Although it is devoted to St. Francis of Assisi, it is a parroquia (parish church) of the Diocese of Guadalajara and was never connected to the Franciscan Order or a monastery. A nine-day patronal (fiesta for the patron saint) is celebrated from September 26 to October 4 and draws visitors and locals totaling more than 10,000 people. The festivities include two parades each day, as well as food, craft stalls and more. 

The apse contains the baptismal font and the main altar. Both the exterior and interior of the church are mostly of the Neo-Classic style popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Double pillars on each side of the altar frame a tableau of St. Francis helping Jesus off the cross. This portrayal is religious rather than historical, because the two were separated in time by about 1200 years. One source suggests that the tableau is about the humility of St. Francis.

The Virgin Mary stands between two sets of bundled columns. Jesus perches on her left arm. Two tall, elaborate candle holders stand in front. This scene is just to the right of the main tableau with St. Francis and Jesus. To the left of the Virgin is a doorway with a trefoil arch. This form of arch was a common element of Gothic architecture, touches of which can be found in several parts of the church. However, trefoil arches date back even earlier than the Gothic era. They are a characteristic of the architecture brought to Spain by the Moors who ruled parts of the country between 711 AD  and 1492 AD.

One of the nave walls contains this elaborate painting. It seems to be centered on a white dove perched between two mountains who is holding the whole complicated image up with its tiny beak. Several slightly different versions of this painting are repeated on other walls. Their meanings are obscure, but the images are nevertheless striking.

Ex-Hacienda San Francisco Javier

The arch of an aqueduct forms the entrance to ex-Hacienda San Francisco Javier. The aqueduct once brought water to the machinery that was used to process the hacienda's sugar cane crop. The structure where the processing was done can be seen on the right, just beyond the arch. The tiny figure in the center, dressed in red, is Carole. This 500-year-old hacienda is located on the western outskirts of Tizapan. A good way to spot it is the tall, slender smokestack you will see several hundred yards off to the right as you approach the city. It can also be located using this Google map.

Courtyard of the casa grande. Just behind the column on the left are the remains of an old circular fountain that used to be the courtyard's central focus. The steps in the background go up to some second story bedrooms. The casa grande and most of its buildings are in semi-ruins, but are still evocative and photographically interesting. While some rooms are not habitable, a couple of them are still occupied by the caretaker's small family. 

According to official records, the hacienda was founded in 1542 by Alonso de Avalos, one of the original conquistadors under Hernán Cortéz. It was part of the vast holdings south of Lake Chapala that were acquired by Avalos and his family. The hacienda passed through the hands of several different families over the centuries, before finally being broken up during the land distributions that followed the Revolution. 

Allan steps carefully over loose cobblestones outside a door to the stables. Allan is a professional artist and very talented photographer. He is also one of the veterans of our group of Hacienda Hunters. Originally hailing from Great Britain, he lived in the US for many years before moving to Lake Chapala and building a home with his U.S.-born wife Catherine. 

This unusually tall doorway shows the various materials used over the centuries, including adobe, brick, and cantera around the door frame. The plaster that still remains in patches once covered the whole adobe wall. This was  to prevent deterioration, but even un-plastered adobe can survive for centuries. In desert conditions it can last for thousands of years. The word itself has survived almost unchanged for 4000 years.

Please! Tell me when my release date is?  While wandering by one of the old buildings, we were startled to encounter this pitiful little guy peering wistfully through the bars. We were mystified, but finally decided that this was just another example of the quirky, whimsical, Mexican sense of humor. After taking a few photographs, we decided that lunch was in order and set off for Mismaloya. To see more of this hacienda and learn about its tumultuous history, click here.

Mismaloya

Speaking of quirky, this sight greeted us upon our arrival at the restaurant. Santa was frantically scrambling up a Christmas tree, but a large pooch had taken hold of his pants and left him somewhat exposed. I've seen a lot of Christmas decorations in my 77-year lifetime, but never one like this! The Mirador del Marinero restaurant is located just off the north side of Highway #15, on the edge of a small plateau overlooking Mismaloya. The hill drops off very steeply beyond the tables you see in the background. This provides a stupendous 180 degree view of Lake Chapala, including at least 25 miles of the northern shoreline.

A local fisherman heads out past a flock of White Pelicans. While we ate, we observed large numbers of pelicans gathered along Mismaloya's shoreline. Periodically a flock would rise up in a cloud of flapping wings when disturbed by a passing boat or sometimes for no apparent reason at all. We decided to drive down to the shore to get a closer look. Unlike the egrets, the pelicans visit seasonally, arriving in force between December and March. This is also pretty much when most of the our Canadian population drops in and for pretty much the same reason. Both groups are known locally as "snow birds".

In a secluded nook along the shore, pelicans preen, flap their wings and mill about. This flock numbered about two dozen birds and they were clearly enjoying themselves. Since I was using my telephoto zoom, I was able to stand far enough away that they were not concerned by my presence. Of course, they are quite used to people being nearby, since the people who clean the fishermen's catch feed them fish scraps. There is such a thing as a free lunch! 

White Pelicans taking off. As this photo shows, the pelicans are not entirely white. The ends of their wings are black and their beaks and feet are orange. While the pelicans are clumsy and a bit comical when they walk around on land, they are graceful both in flight and while swimming. White Pelicans are different not only in appearance from their Brown Pelican cousins, but in  their behavior as well. 

The Whites migrate seasonally from Canada and favor fresh-water inland lakes, but the Browns generally hang out along the Mexican seashore year-round, although some do migrate. The Whites swim in long flotillas to herd fish close to shore. There, they can catch the fish simply by ducking their heads into the shallow water. The Browns, by contrast, glide along in the air over the waves, looking for prey. Then, they swoop up to a height from which they can dive down into the water.

This completes my posting on Tizapan and Mismaloya. I hope you enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question, please include your email address so that I may respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim

The Virgin of Guadalupe parade at Concepción de Buenos Aires: Part 2 of 2

A lone devotee prays at the chapel of the Virgen de Guadalupe. The flower-bedecked chapel is located in the Parroquia (parish church) on the Plaza, which was the end point of the parade. The Virgen de Guadalupe is not only a powerful religious symbol in Mexico but has great political and historical significance. In 1810, a banner with her image was chosen by Miguel Hidalgo, the Father of Mexican Independence, as his battle standard. 

In Part 2 of this series, I will show you the parade held in her honor on December 12 at Concepción de Buenos Aires. I'll wind up this posting with a great little spot for lunch, should you choose to visit this pueblo in the future. To locate the town, check out the map and directions I provide in Part 1.

The Virgen de Guadalupe Parade

A tractor from a local farm towed the lead float. Everything about the parade was obviously put together by the local people with great care and devotion. Nothing about it pandered to foreigners like us. All that made the experience even more interesting and downright charming.

View of the lead float from its rear. Almost hidden by the mounds of flowers, a lone charro stands watch over the statue in the front of the float. The Virgen de Guadalupe is nearly always portrayed in exactly the same posture and clothing. She first appeared to a Christianized Aztec man near Mexico City in 1531. Everything about her image and the legends that surround her carries both Catholic and pre-hispanic pagan meanings. 

A second float carried a live tableau. A woman kneels reverently before a young girl who is dressed as the Virgin. Mexicans are very attracted to religious pageantry and living tableaux. Sometimes, living actors even portray inanimate statues.

Children are often incorporated into the tableaux. Rural communities like Concepción de Buenos Aires are deeply religious. While parades like this are entertaining for everyone, there is always an underlying seriousness to these kinds of religious events.

In the back of the second float, another tableau. A pretty young mom and her daughter ride quietly by a spectator watching the parade. The mom gave me a Mona Lisa smile but her little girl looked a bit concerned by my photographic efforts.

And here come the charros. These were the last three in the line of horsemen, but certainly not the least. The streamers they ride under are in the colors of the Mexican flag. Along with the music, it was this set of streamers that originally attracted our attention to the point far down the street from the Plaza where the parade had originally gathered.

The local band brought up the rear. The group was made up of two drummers, a pair of saxophonists, one trumpeter and a tuba player sporting a large blue instrument. They banged and tootled along merrily, if somewhat off key at times. 

A cohetero prepares to fire. A cohete is a small rocket, about the size of a cigar, attached to a long stick. They are lit off by men known as coheteros, who are ubiquitous at fiestas of all kinds. Their rockets don't set off a visual display, other than the small cloud of smoke that appears when they explode high in the sky. The main effect is the deafening blast. Individually, this is startling but tolerable. However, when shot off in a barrage, the effect is akin to the Battle of Stalingrad. 

Small groups of spectators gathered  to watch. Multiple generations crowded together in doorways and storefronts. I particularly liked the little girl who wears a huge heart on her chest.

A castillo lies on its side in front of the Parroquia at the Plaza. A castillo (castle) is a pyrotechnic structure that vaguely resembles a Christmas tree. To erect it, a street will sometimes be dug up and the center post set in the ground. In this case, the castillo has a cross- piece to rest upon when it is upright. It will become the focus of the fiesta this evening.

The structure is festooned with small rockets that are interconnected by fuses. When the castillo is lit off, the many small circular devices connected to it will spin wildly, propelled by the rockets attached to them. The whole affair will be quite a spectacle as it showers sparks in every direction. However, we will be long gone by then.

Lunch at El Tio Lucas Bar and Restaurant

Jerry approaches Tio Lucas Bar and Restaurant. In Spanish, Tio Lucas means "Uncle Luke". The one-story brick structure occupies the corner of the Plaza at Calles Aquiles Serdán and Álvaro Obregón. I found it a little odd that the structure is entirely brick since wood is so heavily used in this town. The style suggests a 19th century creation.

A bearded barman, presumably Tio Lucas, sat ready to take any orders. The restaurant-bar was very cozy and homey. While our waiter didn't speak English, we knew enough Spanish to read the menu and order without difficulty. Photos of local people covered the walls. Some were of charros, while others were of local school sports teams and families celebrating various rural events.

Jerry opens a dish of hot tortillas as we get ready to dive into lunch. The tasty menu mainly listed traditional Mexican dishes. These included the usual standards of enchiladas and tacos, along with salads and frijoles, but there were also some local specialties. Tio Lucas is definitely a good spot for a meal during a visit here.

The masks Lori and Carole are wearing were due to the heightened level of covid-19 in the area during December. Quite a number of our friends and acquaintances came down with it at the time. I wear one too, when in crowds or confined spaces like this. Better safe than sorry.

This friendly pair agreed to a photo as I passed through the Plaza. The guy is probably the abuelo (grandpa) of the young girl. He looks like a prosperous local farmer, in town for the big event. I get some of my best "people" shots when I encounter folks sitting in plazas like this. They almost never say "no" to a photo.

This concludes Part 2 of my series on Concepción de Buenos Aires and completes the series itself. I hope you have enjoyed it and, if so, you will leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. Please remember that if you leave a question, you need to include your email address so that I can respond in a timely manner.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

The mountain pueblo of Concepción de Buenos Aires celebrates the Virgin of Guadalupe Fiesta - Part 1 of 2

A local charro awaits the beginning of the Virgin of Guadalupe parade. A charro is not just a cowboy, but a skilled horseman who performs in charreadas (Mexican rodeos) and other events like fiestas. Last December, Carole and I and some friends decided to visit Concepcion de Buenos Aires. The small pueblo lies deep in the mountains of the Sierra del Tigre south of Lake Chapala. It was a crisp, gorgeous day, but it didn't occur to us at the time that it was the December 12. 

That is the day when the Fiesta de Virgen de Guadalupe is celebrated in Mexico. So, our short trip was rewarded not only with the pleasure of visiting this beautiful little town, but we were able to enjoy their local fiesta as a bonus. This two-part series will first focus on the pueblo itself and the charros and others who gathered for the parade. Part 2 will follow the parade itself. I'm hoping to provide you with a feel for how Mexicans in these small towns celebrate their fiestas. 

17th century aqueduct that once fed water to ex-Hacienda Toluquilla. The little pueblo of the same name is located about 1/2 way between the turnoff of Highway 405 and Concepcion de Buenos Aires. If you want to visit, watch carefully for the sign because Toluquilla itself is almost invisible from the road. The aqueduct can be found behind a gate across the road from the street that leads into the pueblo. Little else remains of the hacienda except a few adobe walls in the town.

In Part 3 of my 2012 Sierra del Tigre series, I show ex-Hacienda Toluquilla, and detail some of its 19th century history, along with how Concepción de Buenas Aires was founded on its lands. The hacienda was begun by Don Alonso de Ávalos, a captain under Conquistador Hernán Cortéz. The descendants of Ávalos eventually sold it to the Echuarri family, one of the three richest in Guadalajara during the 18th century. 

The Echuarris held it as part of a mayorazgo (entailed estate) for about 150 years from the beginning of the 18th century until 1853. A majorazgo was a hacienda (or collection of them) which couldn't be broken up but had to be passed intact to a designated heir. This was a strategy to avoid the fragmentation of estates that was a common problem during the colonial era. 

Among the various estates within the mayorazgo, the family also owned Hacienda San Francisco Javier, near Tizapan on Lake Chapala's South Shore, and Hacienda San Jose de Gracia, on the far side of the mountains that rim the South Shore. Both are sites that I have visited over the years.

How to get there. The route is fairly simple and requires about a 90 minute drive. The roads are all well-paved and quite good. Follow the road from Ajijic through Jocotopec to Highway 15. Then head to Tuxcueca on the South Shore, where you turn right on Highway 405 toward Mazamitla. 

After ascending the South Shore mountains, you descend into a valley where you turn right at the sign for Concepción de Buenos Aires. When you get there, you will see a large colorful sign on your right with the name of the town. Continue for another 7 blocks to Calle Constitución. Take a right and go 4 blocks to the Plaza Principal, also called the Jardin Central.

A town right out of a cowboy movie

A saddled horse waits patiently for its rider in the Plaza. This town could almost be a movie set for a Clint Eastwood western. I was reminded of one of those scenes where a gunfight is imminent and the whole town seems eerily empty. The word that always comes to my mind in describing Concepción de Buenos Aires is "pristine". 

Pillars line the arcade along Calle Constitución. Golden winter sunshine bathed the walls and streets, making for great photographic opportunities. The altitude of the town is 2126m (6975ft) which provides for a mild-to-cool year-round temperature. Light jackets or sweaters were all we needed in mid-December. The feel of a 19th century cowboy town was further enhanced by the almost complete lack of motor vehicles on the streets around the Plaza.

Calle Aquiles Serdan, looking west along the side of the Plaza. The mountains all around are thick with forests, so most of the pillars and rafters of the arcades around three sides of the Plaza are made from wood. Most of the buildings around the plaza and the area surrounding it are 1-2 stories, which helps maintain the old-fashioned feel of the place.

A small girl sits in the center of Calle Aquiles Serdan. She sat there for quite a long time, totally undisturbed by vehicle traffic of any sort. This underlined just how quiet the town was when we arrived. The church overlooking the Plaza is the Parroquia Inmaculada Concepción, devoted the the version the Virgin Mary who has the same title.

Calle Constitución, looking east toward Hotel Linda Vista. Only a single motor scooter and a couple of pedestrians break the spell of an old-west movie set.

Corner of Calle Constitución and Calle Ignacio Silva Romo. The old-fashioned building above is the Hotel Linda Vista. When I occasionally stay in a small Mexican town, I will often seek out an old hotel like this. The amenities are often limited, but the atmosphere is wonderfully antique. I have found the owners of such places always eager to tell stories about their hotel's history. Soon it is a case of "mi casa es su casa" (my house is your house).

Plaza Principal, also known as the Jardin Central. The Plaza is spacious, with lovely gardens, fountains, cast iron benches, and the almost obligatory kiosco (bandstand). As was the case everywhere else, it was virtually empty when we arrived.

Gathering for the Virgin of Guadalupe Parade

A motorcyclist passes under patriotic streamers on Calle Constitucíon. The colors are red, white, and green, the same as the Mexican national flag. The Virgin of Guadalupe is a political symbol in Mexico, along with her religious importance. In the distance, we could faintly hear a band playing so we decided to investigate. Mexicans often leave fiesta decorations up long after the celebration, so, at this point it still hadn't dawned on us that this was the 12th of December.

Ermita de la Virgen de Guadalupe. This elaborate monument sits in a small plaza at the south end of Calle Hidalgo, seven blocks south and one block east of the the Plaza. When we looked down the street toward the music, we could see more streamers and a small crowd of people, so we decided to walk down and investigate.

At the monument, charros were gathering for the parade. As soon as we saw the monument and the charro outfits, it dawned on us that we had stumbled into one of Mexico's annual Virgen de Guadalupe events. While vaqueros (cowboys), with their traditions and techniques, have been around since the Spanish Middle Ages, charros are a phenomenon that followed the Conquest of Mexico.

Ironically, although charros are respected and honored today, the term was once one of contempt. It used to mean uneducated, unpolished, rough, rustic, clownish, and ill-bred. The term probably originated from Arabic or possibly from the Spanish Basque term txar. 

It first appears in 1627 and it wasn't until 1803 that it began to have a more neutral meaning. The status of charro steadily improved during the 19th century, particularly during and after the War of Independence, when charros played key roles as mounted militia organized by hacienda owners to fight against insurgents and bandit gangs.

The distinctive charro outfit has become a symbol of Mexico. It is worn not only by horsemen, but mariachi bands and others seeking to invoke the tradition. The most obvious part of the charro outfit is the wide-brimmed sombrero. Its high crown and the up-turned edges of the broad rim are often embroidered. Tight-fitting shirts or jackets, along with tight pants, are often adorned with silver trimming. Tooled leather boots and jangling spurs complete the picture.

The man who legitimized charros more than any was Emperor Maximilian, who was installed by France between 1862-67. He both admired charro horsemanship and sought to ingratiate himself with the people. Later in the 19th century, the dictator Porfirio Diaz recruited charros into his rurales (rural police) to chase down bandits as well as workers fleeing debt-slavery on haciendas. The association with the rurales conveyed manhood, strength, and nationhood.  

A charro practices his rope work. The practical use of the rope is to capture and restrain cattle and horses. A skilled charro can do extraordinary things with a lariat, sometimes approaching ballet. Completing the charro image is the horse and its associated gear. 

Everything you see above was invented by the colonial Spanish and 19th century Mexicans long before the first Texan pulled on his spurs. American cowboys were truly "johnnies-come-lately" and borrowed virtually their entire tradition and technology from Mexico. You would probably never get them to admit it, though.

What is a Mexican fiesta without the local brass band? A saxophone player tunes up next to a drum. This was one of the fellows who had first attracted our attention. Usually, a band like this marches behind the charro delegation, playing earnestly, if sometimes off-key. The charros train their horses to dance to the music, creating a highly entertaining spectacle.

This completes Part 1 of my series on the fiesta at Concepción de Buenos Aires. In Part 2, we'll follow the parade as it makes its way to the Parroquia at the Plaza. I hope you have enjoyed Part 1 and, if so, you will leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly.

Hasta luego, Jim

 

Part 2 of our Waterfall HIke and Corn Fiesta: The Upper Falls to Raul's Place

The Upper Falls of Barranca Yerba Buena plunges more than a hundred feet into the gorge. This photo was taken through the thick foliage on the return trail along the east face of the cliffs that line the inner gorge. In the first part of this 2-part series, I took you from the trailhead on the west plateau, up into the bluffs overlooking the gorge, and finally to the top of the waterfall. In this installment, we'll make our way back from the falls, along the cliffs of the east face of the gorge, down onto the east plateau, and finally down to the little pueblo of Citala where we'll meet our fiesta hosts, Raul and Geronima. So, tighten up your bootlaces and let's go!


The country above the Upper Falls

The area above and to the south of the Upper Falls is semi-arid ranch country. The pitayo cactus in the foreground is silhouetted against gathering clouds that yielded a downpour in the later afternoon--fortunately after we had reached our destination. This rolling country extends for several miles to the south and is covered with cactus, dry-country brush, and pasture land. Eventually, the ground rises again in another of the broad staircase plateaus that lead up to the high ridges of the Sierra del Tigre. A few miles to the southwest is Concepción de Buenas Aires, a picturesque little ranching town founded in 1869 on lands donated by the owner of Hacienda Toluquilla.

Lluvia de Oro (Rain of Gold) is technically known at Tecoma stans. Another name is Yellow Trumpet bush, because the little flowers look like golden trumpets. I consulted with my flower expert Ron Parsons who publishes a website called Wildflowers and Plants of Central Mexico.  Ron wasn't real sure on this one because I didn't take a closeup shot, but this is his educated guess. The plants flower in September and October and cover big swatches of the mountainside with yellow. The color gives the illusion of yellowing autumn leaves, but is actually a flowering rather than a dying process. One thing I really love about where I live in Mexico is that there is something blooming during every season. I live my life surrounded by brilliant natural colors.

Looking north, from the inner gorge out through the outer canyon. The outer canyon is a naturaly-carved trench dividing the west (left) and east (right) plateaus. Beyond the plateaus lies the valley, with Citala at the mouth of the canyon. Lake Chapala lies parallel to the mountains in the distance but on the opposite side. Raul's farm, where we originally met him, is on the east plateau. The outer canyon is not as deep as the inner gorge, and its walls are not as steep. However, the sloping walls you see above are covered with loose scree (rock debris) and thick brush, presenting a difficult challenge to those who attempt to climb out to the plateaus above. The base of the outer canyon has a year-round stream fed by the inner gorge falls, but the presence of water means that the canyon bottom is thickly jungled. Those wishing to traverse it, particularly after a rainy summer, will need to cut their way through. Coming south along this canyon was our original route to find the falls. For a look at it, click here.

Nopal cactus grows in front of a pink flower that may be Salvia. Again, the shot was not close enough for Ron to be sure. Both of us are sure about the nopal, however. Since archaic times, this has been one of the most useful plants in Mexico. The flat paddle-like leaves can be eaten, after the thorns are removed, of course. They can be grilled, boiled, sauteed, or just eaten raw. Nopal is not only tasty, but extremely nutritious and healthful, with a very positive effect on cholesterol and on diabetes. In addition, a fruit called a tuna grows on the tips of the paddles. It is sweet and juicy and is about the size of an elongated golf ball. The beauty of nopal as a food source is that it is plentiful and available to anyone. There are 114 known species of nopal in Mexico.


The trail to the east plateau

High tension power lines run along the top of the bluffs and cross the inner gorge at this point. The ubiquitous presence of electrical and telephone lines in Mexico is the bane of my photographic work. I don't know how many perfectly framed shots have been spoiled by such lines crossing through the middle. In this case, I decided to incorporate the lines as part of the story. The towers form one of our landmarks in finding the gorge. I have sometimes wondered about the sweat and struggle it took to erect these towers in such a rugged spot. The first task would have been to clear a broad swath through the jungle, following the direction of the line. In the years since the towers were built, the jungle has partially returned.

Clumps of white Asters grew on large bushes beside the trail. The genus Astereae was once part of a larger genus with as many as 600 species., but in the 1990s Astereae was split off as its own genus. It now contains only 180 species, still a respectable number. Astereae are the North American version of Asters. Like Lluvia de Oro, these flowers flourish during our fall season.

The cliffs on the west side of the inner gorge are every bit as steep as those on the east. Our trail to the head of the Upper Falls took us along the tops of these cliffs, from right to left. In many places they drop off nearly vertically for hundreds of feet. The vegetation you see at the bottom are the tops of tall trees, and the gorge walls extend above the photo for a considerable distance.

Larry hacks his way through. Given ample rain, vegetation in this area grows at an amazing rate. A clear, well-traveled trail can disappear in a short time. The vines and creepers seem to be growing before your eyes as they cross the trail, ready to entangle the feet of the unwary.

Morning Glories, closed for the day. Morning Glory flowers open and shut each day, hence the name. These either closed early, because of the dimming afternoon light, or perhaps they never opened for business in the first place. At this time of the year, the trail along the eastern gorge cliffs is perpetually in shade.

Tomas inspects  a trailside cave. Thinking to kid him, I said "watch out for bats." Just then, several flew out past his head. Tomas was unfazed. He is an experienced hiker who has backpacked the length of the Mexico-to-Canada Pacific Crest Trail. The cave is only about 2 m (6 ft) high and 3 m (12 ft) deep, but it would work fine to shelter a passerby for the night, or against a summer shower like the one we could feel approaching. A few pieces of modern refuse showed recent use. We had previously found another, similar cave about half-way up the outer canyon. Given that the area has been inhabited for 8,000-10,000 years, the caves have no doubt been in use since Neolithic times.

Tomas and other hikers pick their way down a steep trail leading to the east plateau. Above are Tomas, Jim B, Gary, and Chuck. The trail here is moist and slippery and the slope is quite steep. Hiking sticks are very useful in terrain like this, although Tomas seems not to have brought his along.


The great vistas from the east plateau

The view from the east plateau, looking west down the valley. The outer canyon is out of sight behind the vegetation in the foreground. The moutains to the right are those that border Lake Chapala. In the distance you can see the blue escarpment of the Tapalpa Plateau. The long white object you see in the center is plastic sheeting used for green houses. (Photo by Chuck Boyd)

Cerro Garcia rises majestically up from the valley. At 3000 m (9,000 ft) Cerro (Mt.) Garcia is the highest peak directly overlooking Lake Chapala. Here you are looking at its south face. The north face is one most residents and visitors at Lake Chapala see as they look across the lake toward the South Shore. Earlier this year, I joined a small group that climbed Cerro Garcia.

Raul, Geronima and the Corn Fiesta

Raul, taking his ease at the Upper Falls overlook. This Mexican farmer almost defines the term "laid back." He speaks no English, but his easy-going smile and gentle manner communicate volumes about who he is. He tills a farm up on the east plateau,  growing maiz (corn) and frijol (beans). Along with his wife, Geronima, he maintains a small but cozy home in Citala with an orchard in the back. The first few Corn Harvest Fiestas were held at the rustic shelter next to his east plateau fields. However, for the sake of convenience, we held last year's event in his backyard orchard. It was so pleasant that we decided to do it there again this year. For the story of our first meeting with Raul and our first Fiesta, click here.  

Geronima, Raul's wife and our hostess. Like Raul, she speaks only Spanish, but she is warm, motherly, and full of quiet humor. Here, at our first Fiesta, she is explaining the process for making one of the scrumptious Mexican dishes she prepares for these events. Between the food the hikers bring, and that which Geronima prepares, there is always a huge feast with far more than we could ever eat.

Geronima opens her present while Raul looks on. This year, we gave her a lovely crystal and silver pitcher. We traditionally give Raul his favorite tequila, Centenario. Unfortunately, my camera batteries went dead when we reached the east plateau and I had failed to bring a spare set. Fortunately, Chuck got this, the only usable shot any of our cameras captured. Photos or not, we had our usual great time and were invited to come back soon. (Photo by Chuck Boyd)

This completes Part 2 of my two-part series on this years Corn Fiesta and Waterfall Hike. I hope you enjoyed it and, if so, that you leave a comment either by using the Comments section below or email me directly.

If you leave a question in the Comments section, PLEASE leave your email address so I can respond.

Hasta luego, Jim