Izamal Part 2: Itzamatual, the Sky God's pyramid

 

Pirámide Itzamatul, sometimes called Itzamaltun, is Izamal's second largest pyramid. However, it has not been as fully excavated as its larger neighbor, Kinich Kakmó, which I showed in Part 1. Large sections of Itzamatul's great platform are still covered by heavy vegetation. This posting will show the pyramid and its platform, along with some of its adjacent structures. I'll also outline the various stages of construction that occurred over the centuries. In addition I'll tell you about Itzamná, the Sky God, to whom the pyramid was dedicated. 

Overview

Map of Izamal showing the location of several ancient ruined structures. North is toward the top of the map. The various ruins are indicated by the dark grey areas outlined in blue. Itzamatul is located adjacent to Izamal's main plaza, just to the south of Kinich Kakmó, the northern-most and largest of the ruins. For a Google interactive map, click here. For directions to Izamal from Mérida in the west or Valladolid in the east, see Part 1 of this series.

Most of the Itzamatul complex is now covered by thick forest. The excavated parts are located in the center right of the photo. The pyramid sits on a platform that is approximately 100m (328ft) on each of its sides. The height, from the base of the platform to the top of the pyramid is 26m (85ft). The south side is bordered by the Izamal-Valladolid highway and on the north by Calle 29. The east and west sides are bordered by Calle 26 and Calle 31A respectively.

Itzamatul's Platform

One way to reach the top of the platform is to follow this pathway. I don't believe that this loose, rocky stairway was part of the original construction. It looks like it was laid out for the convenience of modern tourists. It probably also keeps them from randomly scrambling up the side of the platform and damaging some of the original structures. The rocks paving the pathway are sometimes a bit loose, so caution would be in order on this route.

After reaching the top of the platform, we encountered this "strangler fig". The tree (Ficus aurea) gained its nickname because it eventually strangles its host tree. After germinating in the canopy of the host, the strangler sends out roots that eventually reach the ground. Gradually, it becomes a free-standing tree in its own right. I have encountered strangler figs in various parts of Mexico, including the mountains around Lake Chapala in Jalisco State.

Various ruined structures can be found around the base of the pyramid. It is not clear what purpose they served, but it was probably related to ritual activities carried out on the pyramid and its platform. These might have included storage of ritual objects like feathered cloaks and head dresses. They could also have served as residences for the priests who conducted the ceremonies. Another possible use might have been to provide facilities for the thousands of pilgrims who came to make offerings in pre-hispanic times. 

The Pyramid

View of the pyramid from the left front. The main staircase can be seen on the center right of the photo. Parts of the upper section of the pyramid are still covered with rubble. The pyramid and its platform were constructed in three distinct phases. The first phase was completed in the Classic era, sometime between 400 and 600 AD. During this time, Izamal was the dominant political and economic power in northern Yucatan. At its peak, the city controlled a region called Ah Kin Chel, which covered an area in excess of 5000 square kilometers (3107 sq. mi).

There were two later phases of construction, first between 700 AD and 850 AD and later between 950 AD and 1100 AD. During these periods, sections of the previous phases were covered over. It was a common practice in pre-hispanic times for new rulers to demonstrate their power by building a new pyramid over one built by a predecessor. The successive phases of construction uncovered at Itzamatul suggest that this occurred here.

Pirámide Itzmatul's main staircase has been restored most of the way up. This staircase is the product of the second phase (700 -850 AD), a period called  the Terminal Classic. During this time, Izamal's political and economic power was gradually declining. However, it continued to be a major pilgrimage site for people seeking help from Itzamná.

A small altar stands at the foot of another set of stairs. Public-facing altars like this were used to perform rituals and to burn offerings brought by the pilgrims. The public areas of the platform were largely for commoners. Unlike this altar, the one within the temple at the top of the pyramid was reserved for royalty, nobles, and priestly elites. Commoners were typically excluded from such sacred spaces. The final phase of Itzamatul's construction occurred between 950 AD and 1100 AD, about the time when it fell under the influence of Chichen Itza.

Carole walks around the base of the pyramid. Another of the pyramid's three staircases can be seen behind her. This one is in worse shape than the one seen previously. According to Maya myths, the city of Izamal was founded around 750 BC by Zamná, a priest of the god Itzamná. This would have been during the era of the Olmecs, the "Mother of Cultures" (1500 BC - 400 BC). The existence of Zamná is a legend and, as such, should be taken with a large grain of salt. Still, archeologists believe the founding date may be fairly accurate. Since Izamal is still populated in modern times, this would make it Yucatan's oldest city.

Depiction of Itzamná on a Classic era ceramic.  Itzamná, the Sky God, was considered to be the supreme creator deity. As such he was among the most important in the Maya pantheon. Until the Maya script was deciphered, archeologists referred to him as "God D". One early translator suggested that Itzamná' means "Lizard House" (itzam= lizard, ná= house). However, other translators believe the name relates to secretions such as dew, sap, or semen and also to sorcery. Put two archeologists together and they will give you six opinions. (Photo from Wikipedia).

View of the main staircase from the second level terrace. The Maya believed that Itzamná was the god of rulership and invented the priestly art of writing and other aspects of civilization. He also divided the land of Yucatan and gave names to all of its features. According to Maya myths, he was married to Ixchel, the moon goddess of fertility, medicine, midwifery, water, and weaving. All this no doubt kept her quite busy. Still, she managed to give birth to thirteen sons. It is probably not a coincidence that this is the same number as the levels of the Maya heaven. Two of her sons created the earth and mankind. 

Top of the Itzamatul pyramid

At the pyramid's top, the remains of a temple and ceremonial fire pit can still be seen. Sacred rituals would have been conducted here by the high priests of Itzamná, out of the view of the commoners below. This space is not large, measuring approximately 4m x 5m (13ft x 16ft). Unlike the rest of the pyramid, the temple would have been made of perishable materials like wood and thatch. These may have disappeared through natural deterioration, but it's more likely that the Franciscan friars destroyed it. They considered such places to be centers for "devil worship". 

View from the top of the pyramid toward the Kinich Kakmó. In the distance, just above the vegetation, the top of Kinich Kakmó and its platform can be seen. Its pyramid and platform would have been fully visible in ancient times, along with the other sacred structures located around Izamal's central plaza.

This completes Part 2 of my Izamal series. I hope you have enjoyed it. If so, please leave any thoughts or questions in the Comments section below or email me directly. If you leave a question, please remember to include your email address so that I may respond in a timely manner. In Part 3, I will cover the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors and the Franciscan friars who built the huge Convento San Antonio de Padua as the headquarters for their Spiritual Conquest.

Hasta luego, Jim